Well problems

[fishheadbob]

6 wells and still learning.
The gauge is inexpensive and handy. If your foot valve ever gets clogged or stuck it becomes very easy to tell what's going on by watching the gauge.
A Myers runs about $650.
Yes, tape your drop cable to the pipe every 10 feet or so.
See if the paperwork with the pump makes any suggestions about a pressure switch, if not I'd say 30-50. Or, I've actually found employees at Lowes and HD who are licensed plumbers. Try to find one (not the 17 year old) and ask.
Hard to believe the original pump didn't have a safety rope, gotta have one.
Lightning seems to go looking for water wells. Better pumps are lightning protected but the lightning goes running up the waterline looking for somewhere else to raise havoc. I saw it jump 12 inches from my antenna box to the on/off on my tv ages ago. Turned the tv on, didn't cook anything ! But I have had lots of stuff fried over the years.
I wouldn't bother to rebuild your old pump which has lots of copper. If you don't want to recycle it leave it out for the garbage pickers and watch them fight over it.

 

[MarkF48]

Yup, got a pressure gauge on my system. I have adjusted the pressure switch and the gauge lets me know where cut in and cut out points are. It did take me a bit to grasp how to adjust the switch and I had to read a couple different instructions to get it figured out. Mine has two adjustments. The short one is the differential.
This is pic of what I've got. 44 gallon tank, 1/2hp Goulds pump down at around 280' I installed back around 1986.

 

[turnkey4099]

Thank you. I might just replace the switch too; because it don't know what it's set at. I do know if running about 20 seconds per cycle; which I didn't think was right. I've got the air right at 28 psi (which should be right for 30/50 switch) but #1: I'm not sure if it's 20-40; 30-50; or 40-60; and I've played with the adjusting nut, so no idea what it is at now.

Do you guys put a pressure gauge in, or is there any benifit? Switch is probably $15; and not a bad job to redo, but I'm wondering if there's any reason to put a pressure gauge inline, and adjust my pressure switch to a good factory setting?

Yes there should be a good quality pressure guage right by the pressure switch, I've never seen an installation without one. It would tell you in one cycle what your switch is set for.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Yup, got a pressure gauge on my system. I have adjusted the pressure switch and the gauge lets me know where cut in and cut out points are. It did take me a bit to grasp how to adjust the switch and I had to read a couple different instructions to get it figured out. Mine has two adjustments. The short one is the differential.
This is pic of what I've got. 44 gallon tank, 1/2hp Goulds pump down at around 280' I installed back around 1986.

Yep, short one is the differential and it should be adjusted to give 20psi difference between on/off. Tall screw slides the setting up/dow, from 20/40 up to 40/60. Pressures over 60 not recommended for residential use and there is really no need for them. It will give a needle shower, run sprinklers just fine.

Harry K

 

[Carl_NH]

Definitely get a gauge in the line and a new pressure switch while you are at it. If you have the normal brass tank tee there should be a spot for the gauge. If not get 1/4" brass tee and brass pipes and install below the switch. Do not use galvanized pipe as that will rust shut in a few years.

This may have been the reason your old pump died - short cycling like that will reduce the motor life considerably.

 

[paulharvey]

Definitely get a gauge in the line and a new pressure switch while you are at it. If you have the normal brass tank tee there should be a spot for the gauge. If not get 1/4" brass tee and brass pipes and install below the switch. Do not use galvanized pipe as that will rust shut in a few years.

This may have been the reason your old pump died - short cycling like that will reduce the motor life considerably.

Yeah, I'm sure it contributed too it. The reason I asked about the pressure gaige, is its not the norm around here at all. Matter if fact, of a about a dozen wells of friends/family; none of them have a gauge. It should be as simple as cutting in a 1"×1"×1/2" pvc tee, and a 1/2" ×1/4" reducer bushing and a gauge. Do I need the gycol filled or whatever? Or will a $3 pressure gauge work?

 

[KevT]

A $3 one is what I have on both of mine, when they freeze, I replace them with another $3 one, and yes that is how mine are installed.

 

[Old Junk Man]

Your pump will have a check valve, Install a second one above ground and have the pressure guage and pressure switch mounted between the second check valve and the tank. on the outlet side install a pressure regulator that will allow you to adjust the hot and cold like in a shower and when the pump kicks on the water pressure will remain constant .no more having the water temp fluctiauate.

 

[Redneck in training]

I discovered these little guys while building my off-grid system. They are surge suppressors / clamps -- they essentially give a quicker path to ground when it exceeds a specific voltage, clamping the lighting strike. Very cool! I've installed several of them as required by code, and a few extras on spendy equipment. Installs right into the knockouts on any panel and wiring takes 5 minutes.

This particular one is made for 120/240v applications and will stop a direct lightning strike. Made by Midnite Solar.

View attachment 429745

~Moses

I have the same one on each bank of solar panels. I also have Siemens whole house surge arrester. Last year crew clearing the right of way dropped a tree in the power line and resulting surge damaged many electronic devices in about a mile from the substation. Except my house. But the surge protector was virtually melted. Since the utility paid for new one I got the best I could find. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...025-value-good-whole-house-surge-dsc_0020-jpg

 

[JimRB]

When was the last time you replaced your tank? I have on my third tank in 19 years. I just replaced the tank this spring. I know when it is bad when a shower has noticeable surging. When a tank is working properly it may take a few minutes before the pump turns on and I do not notice it in the shower. We have low flow shower heads based on 1997 regulations. I can also hear the tank short cycling when the tank is bad. I have a shallow bored well 30-60 feet deep.

Turn off the pump. Get out the garden hose and remove all pressure from the system. If you have a 30/50 pressure switch, pump up the pressure tank to 30 psi. If you cannot achieve 30 psi and maintain it with the garden hose valve open and the well turned off, then the pressure tank is leaking. I ordered a new tank from these guys who had a pretty good price and the same brand my installer used. I chose a different model. Amtrol Well-X-Trol Pressure Tanks My tank was a bit water logged. Better to drain the tank in the yard than in the house or back into the well. That water was black and pretty foul looking. Not unlike the water in the fire sprinkler system that used steel pipes.