Electricians: can neutral be anything but white?

[buickanddeere]

Each circuit's current is returning, but when they combine the two opposite phases cancel out, so that there is no net current load on the wire.

Alright stop right there . If you believe that the current returns to ground on the neutral. You should not be wiring anything nor giving advice .

 

[buickanddeere]

Like I said, I'll do a real world test this weekend. In order for a circuit to function a pathway to ground or neutral must be complete. Question: If you cut the neutral in the scenario you describe will you see a spark/s? (let's say for this example each circuit is powering a 20A air compressor and using exactly the same current)

Pathway to ground for current . No way.

 

[buickanddeere]

Like I said, I'll do a real world test this weekend. In order for a circuit to function a pathway to ground or neutral must be complete. Question: If you cut the neutral in the scenario you describe will you see a spark/s? (let's say for this example each circuit is powering a 20A air compressor and using exactly the same current)

Pathway to ground for current . No way unless the motor is shorting out to chassis. Ground and neutral are two different systems.

 

[caver]

In my plant they often ran 10/4 tray cable wire for dedicated lighting circuits loaded say 50-70% 24/7. Shared neutral and ground with fourth wire as equipment grounding conductor. An electrician had moved one of the circuits to the same leg in the panel for whatever reason. I ran into this on two different occasions. I think he was the same guy that would tie all neutrals together on a multi circuit j-box.

 

[boggen]

see attached diagram... i started to fill out bottom (1-4) circuits. but eyes are getting blurry, from looking at all the lines



i would still push for individual "romax" like pulls to each individual circuit, and running each circuit on a separate breaker. vs trying to come off a 220v breaker. or trying to use a "breaker tie" to tie 2 individual breaker switches together.

after insulating up a spot in a couple sheds for "heated / cooled" areas in the sheds. i completely forget how i ran wires. even when i removed covers and looked into the wires coming in and connections i had. had to find a bad ground, and then some time later, i want to say neutral nut came loose, 3 to 5 other instances. i had a hot came loose (though i found hot nearly instantly, when i went and checked everything after installation).

out of the issues, i would say 1/2 was when i went to push back all the wire back into the box, and then put the cover on. a couple were bad outlets/switches (factory defects, or i thought i had good connections but after a pull test on wires and thought was good, then wiggling outlets and switches, even incandescent lights, the hot slipped just enough on me, on the "push ins" vs using screw base and putting a U shape on end of wires. i have had more issues with GFCI outlets. from connection issues, to just going bad.

again no pro by no means, just misc doings here on farm, and replacing old putting in new.

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consider placing GFCI outlets on the outside, 1 per wall on the outside, and more so 1 on the outside per each small door, and on larger garage doors, 1 on each side. so ya not tripping over cords, going through door way for odd ball projects.

i have a couple saws / drills ((motors in general)) that are 110v, 15amp. and wished i would of sized wires to 20amp, with 15 amp breakers with 20 amp outlets. wires have gotten a tad hot to touch, along with a couple outlets have also gotten a tad hot. most of issue was "starting/stopping" of motors like cut off saws, and the higher amp draw that happens when motors initially start up.

 

[s219]

Alright stop right there . If you believe that the current returns to ground on the neutral. You should not be wiring anything nor giving advice .

I can't see where I said that anywhere in any of my posts. No need to get rude.

 

[heviduty]

Gonna throw my hat in the ring on this one, probably repeating what has been said, as I have not read all posts.

LD1, you have the right idea about multiwire branch circuits. I do want to make a few points which I hope will make your job safer and easier in the long run.

1) Use the next larger size EMT than what the code allows, if it calls for 1/2", use 3/4", etc. The only exception would be use 1/2" for a switch leg or single outlet with no more than 3-4 wires. You will be glad you did if you ever try to pull another circuit in later.

2) Pull a ground. Yes you can use the EMT, but I have seen EMT loosen and even separate from normal bumps and a ground wire is cheap insurance that you will always have a good ground. I prefer the green insulated myself but it makes no difference if you use a bare or green.

3) If you do use a multiwire branch circuit, pigtail the neutral everywhere you connect it. The neutral conductor must remain continuous even when a device (switch, receptacle, etc.) is removed. Don't use the two screws on a receptacle to connect the line and load neutrals, make a 6" pigtail and connect one end of it and the two neutrals together with a wire nut then connect the other end of the pigtail to the device so the neutral feeding downstream is not interrupted. An open neutral on a multiwire branch circuit is a bad thing.

4) As long as you are using 3/4" instead of 1/2", you might as well pull an extra wire or three in long runs for future stuff.

If you can find shades of white or gray or stripes for neutrals, use them, otherwise you can identify circuits with colored tape, small ty-raps, etc.

 

[kcflhrc]

It would appear that a simple wiring job got real complicated for some reason.

 

[buickanddeere]

In my plant they often ran 10/4 tray cable wire for dedicated lighting circuits loaded say 50-70% 24/7. Shared neutral and ground with fourth wire as equipment grounding conductor. An electrician had moved one of the circuits to the same leg in the panel for whatever reason. I ran into this on two different occasions. I think he was the same guy that would tie all neutrals together on a multi circuit j-box.

Neutral and ground were not shared or are not supposed to be. The neutral is for neutral current only. The ground system is to only hold everything connected to it , to as close to true earth potential as possible.

 

[buickanddeere]

I can't see where I said that anywhere in any of my posts. No need to get rude.

I'm not rude. You are getting huffy because you were pointed out to be in error.