I believe the middle section has rubber grommets to aid in alignment. Your main hydraulic pump has a key way that sort of acts as a shear factor but I have read of some busting pump housings before the key shears. Although I can't tell from your picture I would guess the 2 bolt coupling flanges have key ways. The attached above shows key ways on the 2 bolt flanges.You might also note from the part description that it was intended for pump drive. Therefore probably not a danger to other components. I've rattled enough.
New (to me) YM240D
- Thread starter woolyAcres
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woolyAcres
Platinum Member
I got back to working on my tractor today and learned several things.
@California- Identifying the loader type on my tractor was much easier than expected. There's a label on it. :duh:. It's a YFL 240 which should come as no surprise.
First I removed the extra hydraulic hoses that were on the tractor but were no longer being used. Basically some hoses and a valve that had been plumbed to the rear PTO pump.
Then I pulled the hood off and removed the battery and the battery tray so I could get a good look at the forward mounted hydraulic pump. I wasn't able to find any markings indicating brand, model, volume, etc. The shaft turned by hand and, and once I removed the cover to the aux hydraulic tank mounted to the loader frame, I could see (milky) fluid moving through the system when I turned it by hand. I figured it was worth a try to get the pump coupled to the engine so I cut down a rubber muffler hanger so it was wide enough to fit between the flange on the pump and the flange on the shaft sticking forward from the engine. I then use two of the softest bolts I could find (hoping they would sheer if there were any problems) to bolt the two flanges together with the rubber bushing separating them. Fired her up and she started pushing fluid. The hoses between that pump and the reservoir are pretty large 3/4" or maybe 1". At about 1000RPM, there was a lot of fluid moving through that pump. I had no way to put any back pressure on it but it does turn. I called that a win. Eventually I think I'll plumb my loader into this system, disconnecting it from the 3PT setup.
Next job was to adjust the breaks and attempt to get the PTO lever loose from the diff lock. I removed the fender on that side and easily adjusted that brake using the turnbuckle. The PTO lever shaft ends in a 'housing' that wraps around the end of the diff lock shaft. There's a spring clip holding it in place and a grease fitting that should have kept the PTO lever from binding to the diff lock shaft, but it was frozen. I kept spraying it with penetrating oil but haven't yet broken it free. Maybe I'll have to heat it up.
Moving around to adjust the other brake I ran into trouble. Actually, I caused trouble by not quickly enough recognizing that the turnbuckle in the middle required reverse threads on one end. I managed to shear off one of the ends of that turnbuckle. The first one didn't have lock nuts on both ends, only one. Anyway. My mistake, but it looks like Hoye has those so I should be able to fix this without too much expense.
I also removed the cylinders from the loader that dump the bucket. The leaky one not only had a damage front seal, but has lots of pitting and damage to the rod so I'm not sure it's worth repairing. I did get measurements for rod diameter, bore, compressed length, extended length, etc so I can hopefully find something that will replace them. Hopefully Monday I can find someone to look at them and tell me if they are worth repairing or better off replacing.
Here are a few photos of things. I failed to get a photo of my homemade rubber coupler, but I'll get one tomorrow.
Even though she's laid up- parked in the barn and not usable because of the loader- I still call this progress.
@California- Identifying the loader type on my tractor was much easier than expected. There's a label on it. :duh:. It's a YFL 240 which should come as no surprise.
First I removed the extra hydraulic hoses that were on the tractor but were no longer being used. Basically some hoses and a valve that had been plumbed to the rear PTO pump.
Then I pulled the hood off and removed the battery and the battery tray so I could get a good look at the forward mounted hydraulic pump. I wasn't able to find any markings indicating brand, model, volume, etc. The shaft turned by hand and, and once I removed the cover to the aux hydraulic tank mounted to the loader frame, I could see (milky) fluid moving through the system when I turned it by hand. I figured it was worth a try to get the pump coupled to the engine so I cut down a rubber muffler hanger so it was wide enough to fit between the flange on the pump and the flange on the shaft sticking forward from the engine. I then use two of the softest bolts I could find (hoping they would sheer if there were any problems) to bolt the two flanges together with the rubber bushing separating them. Fired her up and she started pushing fluid. The hoses between that pump and the reservoir are pretty large 3/4" or maybe 1". At about 1000RPM, there was a lot of fluid moving through that pump. I had no way to put any back pressure on it but it does turn. I called that a win. Eventually I think I'll plumb my loader into this system, disconnecting it from the 3PT setup.
Next job was to adjust the breaks and attempt to get the PTO lever loose from the diff lock. I removed the fender on that side and easily adjusted that brake using the turnbuckle. The PTO lever shaft ends in a 'housing' that wraps around the end of the diff lock shaft. There's a spring clip holding it in place and a grease fitting that should have kept the PTO lever from binding to the diff lock shaft, but it was frozen. I kept spraying it with penetrating oil but haven't yet broken it free. Maybe I'll have to heat it up.
Moving around to adjust the other brake I ran into trouble. Actually, I caused trouble by not quickly enough recognizing that the turnbuckle in the middle required reverse threads on one end. I managed to shear off one of the ends of that turnbuckle. The first one didn't have lock nuts on both ends, only one. Anyway. My mistake, but it looks like Hoye has those so I should be able to fix this without too much expense.
I also removed the cylinders from the loader that dump the bucket. The leaky one not only had a damage front seal, but has lots of pitting and damage to the rod so I'm not sure it's worth repairing. I did get measurements for rod diameter, bore, compressed length, extended length, etc so I can hopefully find something that will replace them. Hopefully Monday I can find someone to look at them and tell me if they are worth repairing or better off replacing.
Here are a few photos of things. I failed to get a photo of my homemade rubber coupler, but I'll get one tomorrow.
Even though she's laid up- parked in the barn and not usable because of the loader- I still call this progress.
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aczlan
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Look at Surplus Center for cylinders. That will get you a ballpark for a new one to compare your repair quote to.
Aaron Z
Aaron Z
California
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Heck I would try $10 of new seals, polish that rod, and see how you like it. Might be 'good enough for the girls I go with', to quote an old carpenter buddy.
Really, if you polish out anything that could snag a seal, then the seals should last quite a while.
Really, if you polish out anything that could snag a seal, then the seals should last quite a while.
aczlan
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woolyAcres
Platinum Member
Since this is the first time I've done hydraulic work, I don't have a reference for how bad it can be and still be okay. The first step will be getting the snap rings out of the cylinders. I didn't have any luck today. I think I need a better/larger snap-ring tool. If I can get them out maybe that'll be the solution. I took aczlan's suggestion and looked at Surplus Center but couldn't find anything that matched up exactly. Maybe mine cylinders are unusual, but the rod end fits into the bucket is wider than the welded end with fits into the frame. Everything I found was the other way around.
Is there something that can be sprayed/applied to the shafts to fill in the small pits/groves? Kinda like re-chroming it, that I could do myself? If I can salvage these cylinders I can afford to put a new loader control on here which would be really nice.
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woolyAcres
Platinum Member
What about something like these? I think these suffer the same problem as most others I've found- the ends where the cylinder connects to the loader frame is larger than the end where the rod connects to the bucket- but the price is pretty reasonable. Why are these so much less than most of the other stuff I've seen? I guess my question is really, what should I be looking for in a decent cylinder if I can't repair the ones I've got?
California
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I don't think those rods look that bad and should clean up to acceptable.
Maybe post those photos in the TBN Hydraulics Forum to get opinions from people who see this stuff daily.
Maybe post those photos in the TBN Hydraulics Forum to get opinions from people who see this stuff daily.
Interesting temporary coupling repair. Doubt it would hold up to high pressure but maybe if you fabricated a metal piece and put rubber bushings in it similiar to the one I attached it might be high pressure useable.
clemsonfor
Super Member
This thought had occured to me. That the front auxillary was used untill it broke and maybe they had the rear pump laying around to use and or parts for the front pump were to expensive to repair or replace so now you have that rear unit so they could keep pounding posts or whatever