1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader

   / 1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader #61  
Been lurking here and following this with great interest. It's September 15 now, no new posts for 2 months-please don't keep us in suspense!
 
   / 1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader
  • Thread Starter
#62  
Been lurking here and following this with great interest. It's September 15 now, no new posts for 2 months-please don't keep us in suspense!

Well MEMEMEME, I'm sorry that I've not stayed current concerning my Case 530 project. I got busy with other things and neglected my hoe project. I've been painting the house (three coats walls and soffits and fascias) and a myriad of summer labors and as a consequence kind of let you folks down with up to date posts as a result. Rest assured that I have plenty more pictures and details to come. I've just about finished the tractor part (and of course will still post the remainder of that), but still have the tower, boom, stick, and bucket and all of the attendant hydraulics, pins, bushings, hoses to restore, I won't let you down, I promise..........:thumbsup:
 
   / 1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader
  • Thread Starter
#64  
Ok, here is my finish presentation on the front axle group:

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You are looking at the left side front spindle and axle as I assemble all of the seals, cups, cones, and shims for a dry fit. I found the one of the previous owners did not understand the inter working relationship between the vertical spindles tapered splines and the steering arms matching splines. The adjustment of the two can be simple if you understand that the two must mate with no play in the splines but just enough preload on the thrust bearing sandwiched between two washers that have tapered recesses machined in them. When I originally acquired the loader/hoe, I found the front spindles were so loose that I could not run the tractor in high gear. They had welded the spindle nut to the washers, then to the arm thinking that they had taken the play out of the group. And then I think when they realized that the front end was still wobbly and loose after they had welded everything together, they just left the mess! So, I used a 1/16"x3" pneumatic cutting wheel to cut the welds without destroying any of the parts, and proceeded to separate and clean up the nut and spindle arm. Now I needed to consider how I could improve the fit-up between the male and female splines. I found that to tighten up the fit you must remove shims that would have been between the upper axle housing and the steering arm so that the tapered splines can engage more, but none were there to remove. And because of the bad fit, the actual spline had been wallowed out and not the crisp fit that one would expect from a properly assembled axle. At this point, the only way to bring them into further contact was to machine the two tapered washers that sandwich the thrust bearing, thus allowing the vertical spindle to penetrate deeper into the steering arm. It took several attempts on the lathe, taking off .005 at a time before a good fit was achieved. I had to do this on both sides.

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Here is the assembly after final fit-up with wheel spindle and hub greased and adjusted. By the way, after cleaning all of the old grease and dirt out of hub, I chucked them up in my lathe and really cleaned up the mating surfaces. If you notice in this picture you will see a pressed sheet metal seal cuff that screws to the backside of the hub, I spent more time straightening those than all of the time that I spent on the hubs. The wheel bearings were in great shape and were adjusted well, so I only had to clean re-grease and re-install everything. Only had to replace the seal, but that's normal anyway. I installed new power steering cylinders. It turned out that the threading on the shaft and knuckle were poor and when I tried to screw them together they started to strip out. So I was lucky to back them out and re-thread them. I think some of this stuff is of poor quality and is coming out of China.

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This of course is the other side and if you look closely you can see some of the stripped threads on the knuckle shaft. I was lucky and able to save the threads thus the parts and complete the connection.

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Had to do a little more work on this sides hub, but with satisfactory results!

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Both sides finished, adjusted and ready for paint.

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In this view you can see the two washers and thrust bearing that I explained earlier that I reduced them so that the spindle could engage the arm more. I have yet to install the new tie rod.

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Tie rod on, everything adjusted and grease with a fresh coat of paint. Boy, it sure is good to have the front end done, there has really been a lot of effort expended on this part of the loader but I know it will pay off in the long run! Thanks for the interest guys, it makes it worth the effort to post.

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   / 1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader
  • Thread Starter
#65  
This post shows the sheet metal dash, fuel tank, hood, and grill being prepped and some of the body work part 1.

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Here's how it looked after tank removal and dash................what a mess!

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Another view of steering wheel and dash and wiring harness before prep and paint.
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After removing as many dents and as I could reasonably take care of and removing all paint, here is the hood and tank. I had to have a radiator guy repair the fuel tank, it was leaking quite badly at the return from the injection pump and the water collector cup. The guy cut off the petcock flush with the bottom of the water collector cup soldered a penny over the hole at the bottom of the cup closed because he couldn't get the shut off petcock to come out of the threads so it was ruined. But, he did a real sanitary job, and anyway here in Nevada I don't think a guy has to worry too much about moisture in the air or fuel. Since it is kind of hard to find a replacement tank and my tank didn't have any rust inside I felt it was the cheapest way to go.

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Here is the anvil that I fabricated to hammer the dents out of the radius of the hood. I mounted it in one of my jack stands and it worked out really well. It was a piece of 2 1/2"x7" round 1018 welded to 1 1/2"x 3" rectangle tube stock.

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This on shows the power steering hard lines and the dash and tank mount painted and installed ready for the parts.

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Front grill and structural front mounted on the front axle housing.

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Fit up and check all of the mounting places before painting.

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Left side in place and if you look closely you can see the new lower sheet metal ears that I had to fabricate then weld on the hood. They are actually the hold downs for hood to fuel tank. They interlock with the seam where the factory fabricated the tank. They tend to be a part that fatigues from diesel engine vibration and at least on mine were completely missing. The hood was just sort of rattling around on the top of the fuel tank. I just took some 16 gauge sheet metal and made a cardboard pattern, then cut the sheet metal with my electric shears. After cutting out the pieces then bending the radius in the bottom part to match the radius in the tank, I then drilled a whole to match the threaded nut in the tank, then welded the ears to the inside of the hood and blended the weld with my grinder to get a smooth finish ready for paint.

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Right side fit up.

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Just a closer look at how it fits. Next installment I'll show you the finished part and of course the installation.
 
   / 1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader #66  
This is definitely a labor of love. By the time you are done it won't be a 1963 but a 2016 Case 530K Backhoe/tractor.
You are doing a superb restoration job. I enjoy following your progress.
PAGUY
 
   / 1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader #67  
This is definitely a labor of love. By the time you are done it won't be a 1963 but a 2016 Case 530K Backhoe/tractor.
You are doing a superb restoration job. I enjoy following your progress.
PAGUY
 
   / 1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader
  • Thread Starter
#68  
This is definitely a labor of love. By the time you are done it won't be a 1963 but a 2016 Case 530K Backhoe/tractor.
You are doing a superb restoration job. I enjoy following your progress.
PAGUY

Thanks PAGUY,
It has been a labor of love. I can tell you had I not been retired I could never have thrown the time or effort at this project. I'm sure I'd have just settled with getting the main stuff fixed and leaks stopped and then started using it. Also, I had never seen anyone do a total restore on an old loader/backhoe, I've seen many regular tractor and badly damaged new hoes restored, but never an old one. So, that really interested me. I have really learned a lot doing this and this job has helped me tune up my machinist skills. I've welded ever since high school and for the most part am real comfortable welding, but I had to get pretty creative in some of the machining that I did.
 
   / 1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader
  • Thread Starter
#69  
Here is the 2nd part to my sheet metal post. It was a real pleasure to be painting and installing all of this stuff, rather than cleaning, welding, grinding and bending the necessary parts. Hope you enjoy.

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I was finally getting some primer on the sheet metal. I won't show pictures of all the parts being primed, but included this one to show you how nice it was to finally have the part be all the same color. The dash panel had broken in two at that narrow strip that you can see in the lower left hand side. That strip of sheet metal was only about a 1/4" wide. I think the constant flexing at that weak point fatigued and finally broke. I welded another strip the same width on the back side to reinforce it and then welded the holes that had been drilled in the face for the sheet metal screws that attached the plate containing (3) 2" diameter gauges. Then ground the welds down to match the surface of the dash.

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Same dash just has a fresh coat of paint and ready to install.

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Thought you would enjoy seeing the backside of that same dash with paint and kind of gives a perspective of the spot welded reinforcements on the interior. In the background you can see the finished loader arms with the steering wheel removing puller that I fabricated hanging as a counter balance. It offsets the weight that the steel plates that are welded on the other side of the arms. That steel is the bracket that the leveling cylinder attaches to, which make the arms hang crooked and just makes the job of painting easier if its level.

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Most of the dents came out of the hood but a person can only spend so much time on removing dents.

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I was pleased with how the fuel tank turned out. I had to straighten out the three attachment metal points on the tank and rethread the nuts and re-do the threaded studs on the bottom of the tank but I think that's normal for a restore.

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This one shows the dash and tank now mounted and wiring harness threaded and attached where it's supposed to be. Before I set the gauge cluster, I had to rebuild it. I found it on eBay and it was pretty rough. I disassembled it then carefully cleaned all of the surfaces and made sure all of hands on the gauges inside worked freely then cleaned and polished the glass and sealed it with a new rubber ring gasket that I fabricated out of some glazing bead. I reset the hour meter to 0, then re-assembled everything and it seems to all work now. You'll also notice a new steering wheel, which I didn't tighten the nut on yet until I've started the engine, pumped though power steering fluid and find the power steering motor is not leaking, I didn't wan to fully engage the splines, then have to use my wheel puller and possibly mar the surface of the wheel if I somehow I had a leak and need to pull it back off to fix.

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I included this one to show how the wiring harness feeds into the dash area. I still had quite a few wires to hook to their proper places. The Company that I bought this harness from is located in New York and they just did a perfect job with good instruction too! I also installed the newer style diesel shut off handle, it's the red pull handle on the far left, I thought it looked kind of cool.

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The reason that I included this picture is it shows the sheet metal lower dash shrouds that I fabricated out of 16 gauge sheet metal. Of course I made a cardboard template then transferred the image to the sheet metal. I added two tabs one on the top and one on the side, then bent the sheet metal on my brake. After punching two holes in each tab lined up behind the holes in the dash; makes for a cleaner looking finish to the dash and I think more protection for the wires. I reversed the template for the other side, then painted and mounted them both with sheet metal screws.

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Finally got the hood, tank, and dash mounted. That's a long decal and a guy has to be real careful installing it. I almost had a crash with this one but learned from my mistake and it made it easier doing the other side!

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Got the radiator installed and started to line up and fit the hard lines to the hydraulic pump. This was also the point where I was finally installing most of the hard lines and forward wiring harness. If you look in about the center of the picture you can also see the voltage regulator and wires. We're getting closer.

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Another perspective that shows most stuff bolted on and decals finished.

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Final shot of the tractor with one of the structural arms on just before I was going to install the loader arms and shaft. The bolts connecting this arm to the front end, axle, and docking bar should not be tightened, because when mounting the other side and loader arms there needs to be some play between all of the parts or you can't push through the 1 1/2" shaft that connects both sides. Once you have all of the holes aligned, the shaft greased, the whole thing goes together pretty well and can now be tightened to specifications. Anyway, I was happy with how the sheet metal turned out!
 
   / 1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader #70  
Sure does look good TY for all your posts good intensive for others to see what can be done.
 

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