Walker1
Bronze Member
As usual, looks great!
1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader
- Thread starter stans1
- Start date
- Views: 232760
OP
stans1
Silver Member
OK, I'm back again, sorry for the big lag in my progress report. I have had several things to take address in those months (like replacing the compressor in our refrigerator among other things) and of course I ran into quite a few problems with the backhoe portion of this restore. I guess a hoe get such heavy and abusive exercise, that there were no bushings or pins that had not been absolutely worn out in the hoe frame, tower, swing, boom, crowd, and bucket areas. I've come along pretty good and have a lot more pictures as well as descriptions to share. So, here goes:
This first picture is of one of the bushings that will press into the swing cylinder trunnion bore. Each cylinder had one that fits in the top and one for the bottom. I tried turning one at a time and found that it was easier and faster to make them as a pair, so this one is just a practice bushing. By machining the bushings in pairs, it allowed me to hold onto one end in the chuck for turning both ID and OD and I didn't have to continually pull the part out of the lathe chuck and turn it end for end.
Here are both trunnion caps and I took the time to dress both the flange and then the pin ends to take out the egg shape that had occurred from the years of wear and probably lack of grease. If you look closely at the ends of the pins that I trued up you can see the flame or induction hardened grain that extends in about an 1/8" from the surface. All of the pins were a different finished diameter, because I only removed as much metal as it took to make the pin diameter round again and they were all worn (tops and bottoms). The dark colored stock seen in the upper right is the DOM steel that I have been using for my bushings. It's a lot easier to buy a foot or two of DOM and turn it down to the final size than it is to buy solid bar and bore and turn it down. This DOM is 1020 carbon steel and I think it will just do fine!
Just checking fit. I have found that turning a bushing 1 to 2 thousandths over the actual bore that it will be pressed into works well. And I use a boring bar to cut the inside diameter 2-3 of thousandth over the pin size, so by the time you press it in you still have room for grease and rotational movement between pin and bushing.
Here is a shot of the boring operation and I always start with the smallest ID. I can enlarge the one on the opposite end as needed. You can see the marks on the boring bar shaft and when those are aligned with the end of the part that tells me when to stop the cut.
Not very scientific, but I've found, at least for me, that holding a sharpie to mark the approximate diameter that I'm shooting for saves a bunch of time when removing a lot of stock and then I do my final measurements with an inside micrometer. And since I try to always make my marks just a little shy of the final cut, a person can cut up to that mark and still be good to go.
On this shot, you can see the parting tool that's used to separate the two bushings from a common piece of stock. Most of my machining is done dry, using carbide but when grooving or parting you need to use cutting oil. I just use high sulfur, the same used in cutting thread on pipe, it lubricates real well.
Just a little chamfer inside and out and all that's left is to take it over to my band saw to complete the cut at the parting groove, then chuck it back up to do a final facing and chamfer on the cut end.
Here's the finished cap and pin with the gland nut directly above and to the right is the cylinder trunnion with the newly turned bushing pressed in, and just tipped up on it's edge is the new shim that I turned. If you look closely you can see that the bushing extends out of the trunnion boss by almost an 1/8 of a inch. That is the amount of wear that occurred in both the boss and the steel flat stock that captures the cylinder trunnion as it rotates and because it is the bottom face that gets the most wear, as you guys know. Just for your information; I ran 4 evenly spaced weld beads across the interior face of the old worn bushings to shrink them and they came right out after they cooled down.
When you look at the bottom of the trunnion you can see the shim in place. I did a test fit for clearance. Also notice the depth of the worn area in the adjacent bore and you can see how much it is worn and why I cut new shims to help correct for the wear.
This just gives a better perspective of the fit between trunnion and frame cross bar. It's sure is nice to have the cylinder fit snug and not have the slop that was in there originally! Still have to power wire brush the paint on the cylinder body then prep it for paint as well as the frame. Will be posting more pictures and explanations shortly. Thanks for being patient with me and my slow posts and taking a peek and for your interest.
This first picture is of one of the bushings that will press into the swing cylinder trunnion bore. Each cylinder had one that fits in the top and one for the bottom. I tried turning one at a time and found that it was easier and faster to make them as a pair, so this one is just a practice bushing. By machining the bushings in pairs, it allowed me to hold onto one end in the chuck for turning both ID and OD and I didn't have to continually pull the part out of the lathe chuck and turn it end for end.
Here are both trunnion caps and I took the time to dress both the flange and then the pin ends to take out the egg shape that had occurred from the years of wear and probably lack of grease. If you look closely at the ends of the pins that I trued up you can see the flame or induction hardened grain that extends in about an 1/8" from the surface. All of the pins were a different finished diameter, because I only removed as much metal as it took to make the pin diameter round again and they were all worn (tops and bottoms). The dark colored stock seen in the upper right is the DOM steel that I have been using for my bushings. It's a lot easier to buy a foot or two of DOM and turn it down to the final size than it is to buy solid bar and bore and turn it down. This DOM is 1020 carbon steel and I think it will just do fine!
Just checking fit. I have found that turning a bushing 1 to 2 thousandths over the actual bore that it will be pressed into works well. And I use a boring bar to cut the inside diameter 2-3 of thousandth over the pin size, so by the time you press it in you still have room for grease and rotational movement between pin and bushing.
Here is a shot of the boring operation and I always start with the smallest ID. I can enlarge the one on the opposite end as needed. You can see the marks on the boring bar shaft and when those are aligned with the end of the part that tells me when to stop the cut.
Not very scientific, but I've found, at least for me, that holding a sharpie to mark the approximate diameter that I'm shooting for saves a bunch of time when removing a lot of stock and then I do my final measurements with an inside micrometer. And since I try to always make my marks just a little shy of the final cut, a person can cut up to that mark and still be good to go.
On this shot, you can see the parting tool that's used to separate the two bushings from a common piece of stock. Most of my machining is done dry, using carbide but when grooving or parting you need to use cutting oil. I just use high sulfur, the same used in cutting thread on pipe, it lubricates real well.
Just a little chamfer inside and out and all that's left is to take it over to my band saw to complete the cut at the parting groove, then chuck it back up to do a final facing and chamfer on the cut end.
Here's the finished cap and pin with the gland nut directly above and to the right is the cylinder trunnion with the newly turned bushing pressed in, and just tipped up on it's edge is the new shim that I turned. If you look closely you can see that the bushing extends out of the trunnion boss by almost an 1/8 of a inch. That is the amount of wear that occurred in both the boss and the steel flat stock that captures the cylinder trunnion as it rotates and because it is the bottom face that gets the most wear, as you guys know. Just for your information; I ran 4 evenly spaced weld beads across the interior face of the old worn bushings to shrink them and they came right out after they cooled down.
When you look at the bottom of the trunnion you can see the shim in place. I did a test fit for clearance. Also notice the depth of the worn area in the adjacent bore and you can see how much it is worn and why I cut new shims to help correct for the wear.
This just gives a better perspective of the fit between trunnion and frame cross bar. It's sure is nice to have the cylinder fit snug and not have the slop that was in there originally! Still have to power wire brush the paint on the cylinder body then prep it for paint as well as the frame. Will be posting more pictures and explanations shortly. Thanks for being patient with me and my slow posts and taking a peek and for your interest.
vulcancowboy
Gold Member
I continue to be amazed by your talent, good work!
wmonroe
Elite Member
Very nice work! I really enjoy seeing your updates.
vulcancowboy
Gold Member
I've gotta ask, when this project is complete, will you actually move some dirt with it, or is it going to be a museum piece? 
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Thanks, vucancowboy, I really appreciate that. But you know, I don't think of what I'm doing as a talent thing, just getting the darn thing to a useful condition and it's never been in my nature to do things half way. I'll be posting more real soon! :thumbsup:
OP
stans1
Silver Member
I'll try not to disappoint. Sorry I took so long to start posting again......
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Yeah, like I said before; I've got lots of projects to aim it at when it's finished. In fact I was in the Parker hydraulic hose shop this afternoon to pick up the new hoses for the swing cylinders. If this thing winds up in a museum it won't be my doing! Ha Ha.....I've gotta ask, when this project is complete, will you actually move some dirt with it, or is it going to be a museum piece?
RockhorsePark
New member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2014
- Messages
- 3
- Location
- Fort Rock, OR
- Tractor
- John Deere, Case, Mitsubishi, Craftsman
Count me in too. What a beautifully carried out and documented project you have here. Thank you for sharing your work. I have an old 530 diesel Tripl-Range. Carry on!
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Hi RockhorsePark, Glad you've been enjoying the thread. What year of 530ck hoe do you own? Post a picture................thanks.
RockhorsePark
New member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2014
- Messages
- 3
- Location
- Fort Rock, OR
- Tractor
- John Deere, Case, Mitsubishi, Craftsman
Not yet convinced that it's a CK, though I do know that it once had a FEL (sold off, sadly, prior to my ownership). Still trying to pin down the precise year. Help is welcome. =) Here's my girl.
OP
stans1
Silver Member
My last picture post, addressed the swing cylinder rebuild and machining parts for the cap pins and trunnion bushings, so to bring you up to date on some of the things I've been doing on that end of the tractor, I've decided to show you what I have been doing to restore the boom and it's parts. Got real busy with a lot of projects and side jobs, so it has set this project back a couple of months, so I know it's been some time since my last post.
I designed and fabricated a set of arms to hold the boom and stick (some call it a dipper) and the bucket when it's stowed or in it's full up position while using the loader or transporting the machine. As most of you will recall; the boom on a 530CK came with a chain on each side that one could hook up and hold the boom in the stowed position. Most of the hoes that I've seen have the chains busted off or discarded. So I tried to come up with a useful solution, you can be the judge as to whether I succeeded or not.
Here is a shot of the start of the oversized washer that is situated on the opposite side of the 2" dia. boom pivot pin. I'm machining a recess so that only the outer face will contact the boom body and it will bear on the most surface giving it more power to hold that pin in place. I'll be parting it off at about 3/8" thick from the face as you can see, and later in the pictures you will be able to see it in place and see it's function.
In this shot you can see the start of a series of 2" ID. bushings for both the lower boom pivot pin and the upper dipper pin. It takes 2 per bore and they were a pain to make and fit. Because I don't have access to a line boring machine, I had no way to straighten out those bores and had to machine each bushing's outer diameter different with a few thousands taper to fit the wallowed out bores of the boom. But in the end they all had a good interference fit except for one which I had to scrap and make over again. The procedure that I used to machine the taper was: machine the outer diameter of each bushing using maybe 5 steps (each step a few thousands different from the adjacent step) then connect or blend them using a file as the bushing was turning. Then give the taper a final polishing with some emery cloth. Works great!
Just making one of the many washers that fit on my pins, between the bosses and snap rings. I would face the material put a nice chamfer on the OD and ID, then part off the washer at the correct width. I never could find real flat and uniform washers that you weren't required to buy a bunch of a particular size, and the price made it prohibitive to do. This was a inexpensive solution, it worked well.
Here is the 2" dia. pivot pin between the tower and boom. If you look closely you can see the washer that I was turning in the first picture. I used 8620 alloy steel for the pin and the washer was machined out of 1020 DOM. (By the way, those of you who build or dabble around with the AR-15 platform have probably noticed that the bold carrier is made out of 8620 alloy steel, pretty strong stuff!) I was able to get the tower mounted with final adjustments to the backhoe frame, and was temporarily attaching the boom to check the fit of both pivot pin and the swing pins below and behind the pivot pin.
Along the way I made the pivot pin and washers for the connection between dipper and boom. Also made a new pin and washers for the boom cylinder and boom. What is not visible are all of the interior bushing that were mentioned earlier, they are covered by the washers. But the boom and it's parts are now all clean and ready for paint and decals.
OK, here is a shot of the pins and pads that I welded onto the boom, that the arms for holding the boom up will connect to. I threaded the ends and of those pins and so that I could put nuts and washers on to keep the arms from ever sliding off.
Another angle showing the arm pins and the new pin I machined for the dipper cylinder on top.
These two brackets at the top of the picture were placed so there was no interference between the tower at full swing side to side and those brackets. I pre-bored the holes for the cross rod before-hand in those brackets, then aligned them before welding them up.
Here is one of the arms, I did a pre-bore with a 1" dia. drill then enlarged the hole with and offset boring bar to a final dia. of 1 1/2". The flat bar is 3/4"x3"- A-36 or what everyone call mild steel.
Here is the other end of that arm. I cut the pattern with a cutting torch then welded small stock onto both top and bottom of that end to give additional strength. Then finished up the profile with my mill and a rougher end mill for final shape, which you can see in following pictures.
This is what it looks like in the first fit-up. I had to get the correct sizing for length between brackets and pins or the boom cylinder would not lift far enough for the hook to engage the pins. It was sort of trial and error.
You can see here the nut and washer that I explained earlier how that fit and visually see what they do. After making one up, I then clamped both up together so that my final machining made them identical.
Just more of the fit up process.
The hook end and this picture shows how the 2 pieces steel welded top and bottom thickens and helped form the final shape of the hook.
I just included this picture to show the over-all function of the device. The overhead crane was indispensible in the raising and lowering of the boom!
Side view.
Close-up of the connection and frame brackets.
I had to use my hand fall to lift and manipulate the boom. My Coffing electric 2 ton hoist would not lift high enough to bring the boom up the distance that was needed, slower than electric but what a man saver.
OK, here is a final fit up before tack welding and final weld.
This shows the cross bars and stiffeners in the final welding. All that is remaining is to pull the shaft out cut it to length then groove both ends for the snap rings and get some paint on! :thumbsup:
I designed and fabricated a set of arms to hold the boom and stick (some call it a dipper) and the bucket when it's stowed or in it's full up position while using the loader or transporting the machine. As most of you will recall; the boom on a 530CK came with a chain on each side that one could hook up and hold the boom in the stowed position. Most of the hoes that I've seen have the chains busted off or discarded. So I tried to come up with a useful solution, you can be the judge as to whether I succeeded or not.
Here is a shot of the start of the oversized washer that is situated on the opposite side of the 2" dia. boom pivot pin. I'm machining a recess so that only the outer face will contact the boom body and it will bear on the most surface giving it more power to hold that pin in place. I'll be parting it off at about 3/8" thick from the face as you can see, and later in the pictures you will be able to see it in place and see it's function.
In this shot you can see the start of a series of 2" ID. bushings for both the lower boom pivot pin and the upper dipper pin. It takes 2 per bore and they were a pain to make and fit. Because I don't have access to a line boring machine, I had no way to straighten out those bores and had to machine each bushing's outer diameter different with a few thousands taper to fit the wallowed out bores of the boom. But in the end they all had a good interference fit except for one which I had to scrap and make over again. The procedure that I used to machine the taper was: machine the outer diameter of each bushing using maybe 5 steps (each step a few thousands different from the adjacent step) then connect or blend them using a file as the bushing was turning. Then give the taper a final polishing with some emery cloth. Works great!
Just making one of the many washers that fit on my pins, between the bosses and snap rings. I would face the material put a nice chamfer on the OD and ID, then part off the washer at the correct width. I never could find real flat and uniform washers that you weren't required to buy a bunch of a particular size, and the price made it prohibitive to do. This was a inexpensive solution, it worked well.
Here is the 2" dia. pivot pin between the tower and boom. If you look closely you can see the washer that I was turning in the first picture. I used 8620 alloy steel for the pin and the washer was machined out of 1020 DOM. (By the way, those of you who build or dabble around with the AR-15 platform have probably noticed that the bold carrier is made out of 8620 alloy steel, pretty strong stuff!) I was able to get the tower mounted with final adjustments to the backhoe frame, and was temporarily attaching the boom to check the fit of both pivot pin and the swing pins below and behind the pivot pin.
Along the way I made the pivot pin and washers for the connection between dipper and boom. Also made a new pin and washers for the boom cylinder and boom. What is not visible are all of the interior bushing that were mentioned earlier, they are covered by the washers. But the boom and it's parts are now all clean and ready for paint and decals.
OK, here is a shot of the pins and pads that I welded onto the boom, that the arms for holding the boom up will connect to. I threaded the ends and of those pins and so that I could put nuts and washers on to keep the arms from ever sliding off.
Another angle showing the arm pins and the new pin I machined for the dipper cylinder on top.
These two brackets at the top of the picture were placed so there was no interference between the tower at full swing side to side and those brackets. I pre-bored the holes for the cross rod before-hand in those brackets, then aligned them before welding them up.
Here is one of the arms, I did a pre-bore with a 1" dia. drill then enlarged the hole with and offset boring bar to a final dia. of 1 1/2". The flat bar is 3/4"x3"- A-36 or what everyone call mild steel.
Here is the other end of that arm. I cut the pattern with a cutting torch then welded small stock onto both top and bottom of that end to give additional strength. Then finished up the profile with my mill and a rougher end mill for final shape, which you can see in following pictures.
This is what it looks like in the first fit-up. I had to get the correct sizing for length between brackets and pins or the boom cylinder would not lift far enough for the hook to engage the pins. It was sort of trial and error.
You can see here the nut and washer that I explained earlier how that fit and visually see what they do. After making one up, I then clamped both up together so that my final machining made them identical.
Just more of the fit up process.
The hook end and this picture shows how the 2 pieces steel welded top and bottom thickens and helped form the final shape of the hook.
I just included this picture to show the over-all function of the device. The overhead crane was indispensible in the raising and lowering of the boom!
Side view.
Close-up of the connection and frame brackets.
I had to use my hand fall to lift and manipulate the boom. My Coffing electric 2 ton hoist would not lift high enough to bring the boom up the distance that was needed, slower than electric but what a man saver.
OK, here is a final fit up before tack welding and final weld.
This shows the cross bars and stiffeners in the final welding. All that is remaining is to pull the shaft out cut it to length then groove both ends for the snap rings and get some paint on! :thumbsup:
wmonroe
Elite Member
Very nice write up, I enjoyed it. Thanks for taking the time.
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Thanks wmonroe,
Glad you enjoyed the post. I know I seems to take a lot of time between each post and that probably makes it hard to follow, but I've had a bunch of stuff that has made it hard to keep the flow of submissions to the forum. Thanks for the patience, here is a shot of what I've got coming:
Got a bunch of it painted and assembled, more to come.
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Well here are a couple of teaser pictures. I'm going to pick up where I left off with my presentation and submit a more detailed image of the finishing process. You guys have been so patient with my slow posts, that I feel I owe you the rest of the story!
I was able to get the wheels and tires on, so it looks like something that actually works.
One at the front, it almost looks like a face, huh? More to come.......
I was able to get the wheels and tires on, so it looks like something that actually works.
One at the front, it almost looks like a face, huh? More to come.......
vicp21
New member
Wow, that looks better than new!
Billrog
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2014
- Messages
- 2,057
- Location
- Armstrong, British Columbia
- Tractor
- Kioti 2610, 580 SuperM Case Backhoe
Love the pics. so I can admire your work.
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Just about done and looks great.:thumbsup:
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Thanks, vicp21, I've run and operated all of the moving parts and it sure is a lot tighter.
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Glad you like the pictures Billrog, I'm glad to be at the end of this project. I know that you have been following the progress and it has been much appreciated!
