New (to me) YM240D

[Djames55]

So I tried what Djames55 suggested and found my setup behaves like his. With the loader arms fully extended (bucket at highest possible point) and the rear 3PT lever all the way forward (rear implement lowered as far as it can go so there's no weight on the 3PT) as in the attached photo, the bucket cylinders can roll the bucket toward me but it will NOT extend the cylinders. It just won't do it. Not slowly, not eventually, it just won't go. If I raise the 3PT hitch so that the rear implement is off the ground those same cylinders WILL extend. No idea what's going on but I think putting a gauge in the system will help identify things. When I do that I'll post the results.

woolyAcres, I don't think you fully understand what I was trying to say... I only have to change the position of my 3 point to make my loader lift max weight... My 3 point has 600 lbs on the back of the tractor for a counter weight... If I have my 3 point down no weight on it my loader will only pick up 300 or 400 LBS... But if I raise my 3 point up as high as it will go with the 600 lbs counter weight... Not the loader lift arms... I can lift 1000+ LBS with the loader... If I need to curl down or up with the loader bucket, I have to lower my 3 point down 1 or 2 inches... To make it curl... I agree with Winston "that back pressure feeding back to the 3 point...That is the reason it is recommended to plumb loaders with power beyond. To eliminate back pressure." My tractor did NOT have a loader when I bought it... I installed it myself with the parts and per instructions from Hoye Tractor Parts... Like this >>>Yanmar Tractor Parts HYDRAULIC ADAPTER - ADD A LOADER / LOG SPLITTER But I don't know how to install and plumb a loaders with power beyond... I have got real good working my 3 point and loader valve to use my tractor... I always leave my 3 point down 1 or 2 inches from max lift to use my lift and curl on my loader... If I need more lifting power with my loader I lift up my 3 point to max height...

 

[California]

I'm not really sure how this should be plumbed. I looked back at California's post earlier in the thread to see how his compares to mine. Mine is below and it looks a bit different to me, but maybe the internals are the same? In my photo, the two flex lines run over to the loader control valve. The lower of the two feeds into the control valve IN port. The top appears to be the return from the loader valve. The solid line coming into that block at the bottom comes from the hydro pump at the front. You can see the solid pipe leaving the top of the block heads into the case just under the seat. This seems right but I have no idea what's going on inside this block or why that one bolt in the lower left on this block has a shim on it.

Pretty sure yours is plumbed same as mine and both conform to Yanmar's Operation Manual recommending that a loader control be installed in series ahead of the 3-point.

Specifically, the line TO the loader control exits that block right where the high pressure line from the pump comes into the block, and the return FROM the loader control goes into the block right next to the block's output port.

Here's Yanmar's diagram again, corresponding to Wooly's recent photo.

 

[woolyAcres]

Hi Djames55- I mis-spoke when I said mine behaves like yours. By that I meant that my loader works differently when the rear 3PT hitch has some pressure/weight on it, similar to the way yours does. I don't see why the presence or absence of rear weight should have any effect on loader performance. Mine appears to have other issues as well, which I'm hoping to sort out by replacing the control valve and a few hoses.

 

[woolyAcres]

Pretty sure yours is plumbed same as mine and both conform to Yanmar's Operation Manual recommending that a loader control be installed in series ahead of the 3-point.

Specifically, the line TO the loader control exits that block right where the high pressure line from the pump comes into the block, and the return FROM the loader control goes into the block right next to the block's output port.

Thanks for the diagram. In that image there is no loader installed right? To do so one would remove the cover plate on that divider block and replace with one that allowed additional hoses to be installed? Presumably with some internals that would force all fluid on the high pressure side (line entering from the bottom) out through the flex hose. The return would be through the other hose and pressure/fluid would continue to the rear 3PT via the top fixed line? That is to say with a diverter block in the system, the out and the in of that diverter block need to be plumbed together so fluid can eventually get to the 3PT.

Suppose one wanted to install rear remotes. I couldn't simply disconnect the two lines (IN/OUT) running to my loader control valve and replace the ends of those hoses with quick connect fittings? Doing so would interrupt the circuit.

Do I have the gist of this?

 

[winston1]

"Suppose one wanted to install rear remotes. I couldn't simply disconnect the two lines (IN/OUT) running to my loader control valve and replace the ends of those hoses with quick connect fittings? Doing so would interrupt the circuit.

Do I have the gist of this?"

Confusing isn't it! :confused3: "If" you put quick disconnects on the loader lines they would have to be connected together if not connected to a working devise as the flow from the pump has to remain continuous in an open center system.

I would split the two halves of your diverter block just to take a peek if it were me. (only 4 bolts) Only guessing someone lost the correct bolt and substituted a longer just using the spacer to make it work. Attaching a crude drawing showing how that diverter block is suppose to work before and after loader installation.

 

[Todd8665]

Thanks for the diagram. In that image there is no loader installed right? To do so one would remove the cover plate on that divider block and replace with one that allowed additional hoses to be installed? Presumably with some internals that would force all fluid on the high pressure side (line entering from the bottom) out through the flex hose. The return would be through the other hose and pressure/fluid would continue to the rear 3PT via the top fixed line? That is to say with a diverter block in the system, the out and the in of that diverter block need to be plumbed together so fluid can eventually get to the 3PT.

Suppose one wanted to install rear remotes. I couldn't simply disconnect the two lines (IN/OUT) running to my loader control valve and replace the ends of those hoses with quick connect fittings? Doing so would interrupt the circuit.

Do I have the gist of this?

Correct...kind of. I could be wrong, but I think, and possibly hope, that your diverter block sends the fluid FIRST to your loader valve, then it comes back to the block and on to the 3 pt. When you actuate your loader, bucket or arms, the positive/powered fluid presses on one side of the rams forcing the fluid on the opposite side back through the other line to your divert-er block and to the 3 pt. Akin to using your high pressure line as a low pressure return. You cant - or are not supposed to- use your loader and three point at the same time because of this.

If you wanted to add remotes in the back you have the power side covered, but no valve to allow the "return" of fluid. This is much like the power steering discussion going on with Scotty . You would need to plumb a line that dumps the fluid back into your trans case.

 

[woolyAcres]

A picture is worth a 1000 words. That's what I was trying to describe. And that makes sense.

I'm trying to track down a 5000PSI guage (no at local TSC or HD). Looks like I'll have to order it. When I plumb that into the system I'll probably do it right there are the diverter block. I'll pull it apart to see what's in there.

 

[normde2001]

What you have highly resembles a train wreck IMHO. If mine I would rip everything out and plumb like this, with no BPY, then repair any cyls. or whatever necessary. Very simple and it works just fine.
Yanmar Tractor Loader Install Instructions

 

[woolyAcres]

What you have highly resembles a train wreck IMHO. If mine I would rip everything out and plumb like this, with no BPY, then repair any cyls. or whatever necessary. Very simple and it works just fine.
Yanmar Tractor Loader Install Instructions

Hi normde2001, believe it or not that is how my system is plumbed! This thread is long and winding and when I got the tractor there was a lot of ancillary hydraulic stuff on it but most of that has been removed, but the loader has always been plumbed like the drawing in the link you sent. I've rebuilt the cylinders so I'm really down to pump problems or valve problems. I'm waiting for my pressure gauge from McMasterCarr to come and I can get that installed to see if the pump is the problem. Replacing the valve is high on m todo list; just waiting on funds $$$. I'm trying to sell the rear "PTO pump that came with the machine to pay for a new FEL controller.

 

[California]

Others have better responses here than anything I can think of, but there's one point that needs emphasis:

You asked about a quick-connect for a rear remote, fed from the Out port of that block. Don't Do This.

Posts all over TBN describe what happens if the implement becomes detached from that quick connect: the quick connect is designed to close, instead of spurting fluid.

Then the fluid has nowhere to go, and the pump is destroyed instantly.