Chains for Wet Heavy Snow

[Garycw]

Majority of plowing at one property is gravel drive. Probably 1500 ft. And yes it's hard, but still gets reg roomed with box blade a few times a year. I don't worry about it at all. It's the concrete & asphalt that gets scratched up. I guess if you don't spin much it's not too bad.

 

[kco]

tkcomer, it looks like your 15x19.5 R4's are similar to the 43x16x20 R4's on my DK35 (which I think translates to 16.9x20). I bought standard DUO's and was not happy with them. They were rough due to the large gap between the patterns and the chain end closure. I tried to fix the large gap at the closure, but it still had a large gap as seen on the right tire of this photo:



The DUO/Ladder chains you are considering should be an improvement over standard DUO's. I fixed my DUO's by adding patterns and converting them to an H-Pattern as shown here:



That closed the patterns, reducing slippage and smoothing the ride but I still had to fill the end gap (seen on the right tire in the above photo) with a single cross chain.

Last spring I finally fixed the end gap by adding an additional DUO pattern and using pin couplers to connect them over the closure at the chain ends as shown in these photos:



This made the chains smoother and more effective, and properly closing the end gaps stopped them from becoming misaligned. I was fortunate to be able to buy bulk DUO patterns locally at a good price to make the modifications. I also had to buy a chain tool.

I was not happy with the DUO's until I converted them to an H-pattern with properly closed end gaps.

I like the H-pattern chains but, as another poster said, something like Aquilines might be a good option. Also, take a look at some of the Trygg and other Nordic chains which have similar patterns to Aquilines and H-patterns.

I originally started with some free 4-link ladders which were completely ineffective.

 

[PILOON]

On my turfs I use dual cross studded link ice chains. That is the cross links are at ever 3 link.
(made them up myself by converting H style and adding more cross links.)
Being that close there is always 2 cross links in contact and there is never slippage.
Part of my drive (hilly portion) is paved and come spring there is no signs of chain damage.

 

[tkcomer]

I've read where chains can get down in the tread of a R-4 tire. That's why I asked about the duo ladder style chain. Not sure about the V-bar. To me, if I get to slipping with chains on, I need to quit. Instead of digging holes in the gravel.

 

[Rustyiron]

I've read where chains can get down in the tread of a R-4 tire. That's why I asked about the duo ladder style chain. Not sure about the V-bar. To me, if I get to slipping with chains on, I need to quit. Instead of digging holes in the gravel.

I think those chains will do what you want, at a reasonable cost. They might be a little "bumpy", but you're snow plowing, not headed to Sunday meeting with the family.:thumbsup:

 

[arrow]

I've read where chains can get down in the tread of a R-4 tire. That's why I asked about the duo ladder style chain. Not sure about the V-bar. To me, if I get to slipping with chains on, I need to quit. Instead of digging holes in the gravel.

Some controversy about this. If chains are run loose, it does not matter that they look like they're in the grooves on top of the tire. As the tire comes around, they sag. I have simple 4 link ladders on back with ags. If I run across ice, all you see is cleat marks digging into the ice as it's the chain that hits the surface first.

A fellow member on tBN was having the same trouble as you are. Same tire size as well. He got 2 link ladders, put them on and still was having trouble with slipping. I told him to take the tensioners off. Had no trouble after that.
Another member had the exact opposite effect. He had to tighten his chains to get traction. This is why it is so difficult to match chains. What works for one does not for the other.

Apparently, the devil is in the details. Too many variables such as wet snow, dry stuff, hard cold, fresh fallen wet stuff on unfrozen ground, tread design,etc. Wider tires have more flotation. Harder to get a bite as you already know. If I were in your shoes, I'd get a simple set of 2 link ladders for the rears. They are a dense enough chain where they won't get lost in the grooves. Try them loose and tightened to see what works best for you.

 

[arrow]

A picture of some real ugly chains. A set of these may eliminate many of the OP' s traction problems.

[video]http://www.silverlakefabrication.com/logging/tryggsuper-dutytightringchains.jpg[/video]

These are indeed skidder chains. The center rings that look so small in the picture were 10"across on our skidders. If you threw a chain in the woods, you just attached it to the skidder until you got back to the landing as there was little chance one guy was going to mount a 400 lb set of chain.

 

[CalG]

Any chains are better than none!

You are where? Heck, wait a day until the snow melts!

 

[skyhook]

kco, I have the same chains as you (that came with my machine), I haven't used them yet "because", they need to be modified, I have "5" links in between the "H" pattern making for a wide "H". And one link between each "H". I noticed on yours that you have "3" links between the "H" and one between the "H's", I'm thinking on reducing my "5" links to "3" like yours and possibly bumping up the "H" to that single link like you did in your mods. My question to you is, how do you find the ride now and do you leave your chains on all winter or just throw them on when needed.

 

[George2615]

I just saw where the OP lives. Don't really know why he needs chains with an annual snowfall of 14-16".
Sometimes we get that amount or more per snowfall.