Members home made attachments / improvements

[woodlandfarms]

Nope... DOn't guys.... Those are good lights but only 18watts. More than likely your PT has a 30 watt incandescent bulb on each side. So that means you have 60 watts of useable DC power to drive LED's Get yourself some 30 watt LED's or a 60 watt light bar.

I am saying this because I have now purchased 3 sets of LED lights for my PT, I got some 24 watts that really impressed me, and then one started to act up and the price dropped on the 40 watts so I made the move (I have a 65 amp alternator so lots of room to do these things).

Check out EBAY. Better deals to be had. Just My Opinion.

 

[MossRoad]

My 25hp Kohler only has a 20 amp alternator. I'm trying to keep the load as low as possible. Its crazy bright white light. I can't see a reason for doubling mine at this point as it is almost too bright if I'm plowing in falling snow. Maybe a beam instead of a flood for night time driving in the woods? I don't know. The only thing I do on the tractor at night is plow snow.

Here's two incandescents with one LED (but its a daytime shot).

Here's two LED's blinding the camera

And here's the view from the seat with just two of the LEDs (its about 40' to the pumpkin).

 

[woodlandfarms]

I do not battle snow much, but glare issues exist with brighter lights.

Here is a test I did a while ago. Set my camera to manual, and used only ONE light....

Darkest picture is my stock lamp

Second picture is my 28 watt LED (I think it was 28 it might be 18 but I am not at the farm so)

3rd picture is the 40 watt LED

 

[SpringHollow]

I am going to beat a dead horse only because others read these posts and might have a different situation than yours. You made the comment "Like you said it's rare to fall over and if I ever do I'm confident after working with it that it will take a good hit. " Unless this is not standard (schedule 40, I believe) galvanized pipe, that pipe and especially its flange connectors will very likely not survive any sort of "violent" roll over in my opinion. I am not referring to a slow teetering tip over where the tractor just lands on its side but one where it wants to roll past laying on its side. I intentionally bend by hand 3/4" and 1" schedule 40. I am taking advantage of the leverage of the 10' length to do so but the force I am applying in MUCH less than a roll over. However, I think your set up will be adequate for 99.9% of what you will encounter. I just do not want some else thinking they can make a ROPS out of that stuff and be able to rely upon it when they are driving in the hills or with a regular CUT which tips over much more easily than a PT. The intent of this post is definitely not to beat you up. I am very impressed with how well you are taking care of your tractor. And I am also aware how easy it is to get posts like mine. I built a rolling bridge crane and got responses from professionals saying that it would not even hold 1000 lbs. I had already moved loads of 3500 lbs before I posted about the crane. But I am sure they saw things that really concerned them and I take their comments to heart, reinforcing my already standard practice of never standing directly under it when using it.

Ken

 

[MossRoad]

I do not battle snow much, but glare issues exist with brighter lights.

Here is a test I did a while ago. Set my camera to manual, and used only ONE light....

Darkest picture is my stock lamp

Second picture is my 28 watt LED (I think it was 28 it might be 18 but I am not at the farm so)

3rd picture is the 40 watt LED

That's pretty bright! :thumbsup:

 

[Barryh]

I am going to beat a dead horse only because others read these posts and might have a different situation than yours. You made the comment "Like you said it's rare to fall over and if I ever do I'm confident after working with it that it will take a good hit. " Unless this is not standard (schedule 40, I believe) galvanized pipe, that pipe and especially its flange connectors will very likely not survive any sort of "violent" roll over in my opinion. I am not referring to a slow teetering tip over where the tractor just lands on its side but one where it wants to roll past laying on its side. I intentionally bend by hand 3/4" and 1" schedule 40. I am taking advantage of the leverage of the 10' length to do so but the force I am applying in MUCH less than a roll over. However, I think your set up will be adequate for 99.9% of what you will encounter. I just do not want some else thinking they can make a ROPS out of that stuff and be able to rely upon it when they are driving in the hills or with a regular CUT which tips over much more easily than a PT. The intent of this post is definitely not to beat you up. I am very impressed with how well you are taking care of your tractor. And I am also aware how easy it is to get posts like mine. I built a rolling bridge crane and got responses from professionals saying that it would not even hold 1000 lbs. I had already moved loads of 3500 lbs before I posted about the crane. But I am sure they saw things that really concerned them and I take their comments to heart, reinforcing my already standard practice of never standing directly under it when using it.

Ken

No worries Ken, for safety's sake you were right to bring it up and I totally agree. :thumbsup:

Probably something I should have stated myself at the beginning. Other people reading this post might get the wrong idea concerning the strength of galvanized steel Pipe. Even though it's very think and fairly strong. It's designed to bend and it's primary purpose is for plumbing. In my case our property has no real treacherous or steep hills.

2-inch form would have been somewhat better.. But I know this setup would not withstand a serious hard roll over down hill either way. I feel it's a good temporary solution for myself and I except the risk as it would be a casual tip over anyway.

In no way would I recommend this as a standard Rop's for anyone else. I do agree with other comments on here.. The flange is cast and would be the weakest link to my setup.

While rigging this up I thought about the strength factor too. Not having a welder yet and for my purposes It was a doable temporary solution.

I also took into consideration I've had four previous tractors and I never had a roll over..But that's not to say it can't happen. For now it will help keep branches from poking me in the eye or falling on my head. And gives me a base for lights and keeping rain and snow at bay.

That said, I built it as a quick solution with money being allocated to more pressing things needed for around my house with fall and winter coming on fast. I plan to get the factory Rop's sometime before Spring.. Not that I'll like banging my head again.. lol

Mainly because I'll like the classic look of my old 1425 much better with the original equipment .

 

[Barryh]

I do not battle snow much, but glare issues exist with brighter lights.

Here is a test I did a while ago. Set my camera to manual, and used only ONE light....

Darkest picture is my stock lamp

Second picture is my 28 watt LED (I think it was 28 it might be 18 but I am not at the farm so)

3rd picture is the 40 watt LED

Nice setup indeed..:thumbsup:

 

[Barryh]

My 25hp Kohler only has a 20 amp alternator. I'm trying to keep the load as low as possible. Its crazy bright white light. I can't see a reason for doubling mine at this point as it is almost too bright if I'm plowing in falling snow. Maybe a beam instead of a flood for night time driving in the woods? I don't know. The only thing I do on the tractor at night is plow snow.

Here's two incandescents with one LED (but its a daytime shot).

Here's two LED's blinding the camera

And here's the view from the seat with just two of the LEDs (its about 40' to the pumpkin).

Yep.. The ones I have right now are 27 watt.. Having the same Kohler 25 .. I think that would be plenty for my needs also. Good to see the pic's..

 

[stray]

these are really good lights for the money. there are many like them and all are much better than the stock lights. i have put them on my 4 wheeler, golf carts, and power tracs. Highly recommend them. 2X 27W 12V 24V LED Work Light Spot Lamp Tractor Truck SUV UTV ATV Offroad Round | eBay

 

[MossRoad]

Those look pretty good and 2 for $23 is dang dirt cheap. How well they holding up for you?

 

[jfischer]

This is Weight bracket and hitch I made for the back of the PT 425. I wanted to try it in the Winter with Snow, to see if it might help not having to chain up. These were weights I used to use on the back of my John Deere 318 and have a total weight of 250 pounds.

It is a standard size 2x2" hitch, so could put a regular ball in it if I needed to pull a trailer, or have a hook if I need to tie the machine down when I move it.

Pictures are not that good, taken with the phone, but gives an idea

(Click on pics to enlarge)
Below is the hitch, with Grade 8 bolts and big washers and lock washers on both sides. Hitch angle is 3/8" steel, and welded all around it.



Below is the bracket I used before, just cut a few things off the bottom of it. Never had a problem with it on the John Deere after running into trees, wrapping chains around it to drag things out, or other needs, so figure it will be strong enough to hold the weights.



Below is the setup with 250 pounds of weights on it. Raining tonight, but will get a chance in a day or so to try it, and see how it feels.

 

[stray]

As of now I have not had a single one even flicker or grow dim. I have 11 in use. 5 mounted on my old PT.

 

[MossRoad]

Nice! :thumbsup:

 

[Barryh]

As of now I have not had a single one even flicker or grow dim. I have 11 in use. 5 mounted on my old PT.

Good to know, I have the same set sitting here 27-W.. I bought them a month ago.. I also bought a set of these 18 -W for the top. Will be doing some more work to my Rop's this weekend after that, I'll be installing my new lights...

 

[Barryh]

This is Weight bracket and hitch I made for the back of the PT 425. I wanted to try it in the Winter with Snow, to see if it might help not having to chain up. These were weights I used to use on the back of my John Deere 318 and have a total weight of 250 pounds.

It is a standard size 2x2" hitch, so could put a regular ball in it if I needed to pull a trailer, or have a hook if I need to tie the machine down when I move it.

Pictures are not that good, taken with the phone, but gives an idea

(Click on pics to enlarge)
Below is the hitch, with Grade 8 bolts and big washers and lock washers on both sides. Hitch angle is 3/8" steel, and welded all around it.

View attachment 445526 View attachment 445527

Below is the bracket I used before, just cut a few things off the bottom of it. Never had a problem with it on the John Deere after running into trees, wrapping chains around it to drag things out, or other needs, so figure it will be strong enough to hold the weights.

View attachment 445529 View attachment 445530

Below is the setup with 250 pounds of weights on it. Raining tonight, but will get a chance in a day or so to try it, and see how it feels.

View attachment 445532 View attachment 445533

Nice job .. :thumbsup:

 

[KMA]

Good to know, I have the same set sitting here 27-W.. I bought them a month ago.. I also bought a set of these 18 -W for the top. Will be doing some more work to my Rop's this weekend after that, I'll be installing my new lights...

I use two of those ("flood" versions) on the front of my zero turn mower for cutting at dusk/night. They work great and were cheap as heck ~$18 for the pair.

 

[Barryh]

OK decided to keep my Rop's since I did a lot of work to it .. Instead of spending another $687.00. I threw another $70.00 at it and beefed it up. So I'm still at least $250.00 ahead of the game.

I felt it was solid before but didn't like the way it looked so now I know it's solid as a rock. I cut it down another 7 inches to a height of 69 inches total from the floor. Should be the same as the factory Rop's. I added 2 inch pipe over the 1-1/4 inch pipe and added another base bracket.

Then drilled through both pipes. So if I were unlucky enough to fall over with a load she's going nowhere now. I also bought a Great Dane replacement crate pan you can see in the picture. It's fairly thick plastic. I put it over the plywood top to waterproof the wood. It was a perfect fit. I attached it with rubber washers and wood screws so it won't crack.

Now just need to mount my new lights top and bottom with a good extinguisher and I'm good to go for winter...

 

[stray]

I made this one a few years back. Luckily i had the scrap metal so cost was low. Now I would like to build a cover that extends and keeps me dryer on rainy weather. easy on easy off of course. i have since added and replace with Led lights. Good job with the screw pipe. saved some welding

 

[Barryh]

I made this one a few years back. Luckily i had the scrap metal so cost was low. Now I would like to build a cover that extends and keeps me dryer on rainy weather. easy on easy off of course. i have since added and replace with Led lights. Good job with the screw pipe. saved some welding

Nice job Stray, I can't tell that one, from the factory Rop's. :thumbsup:

I don't have a welder at this point, so I have to take the long way around when I construct something. I like the rework I did this weekend. Feels plenty solid now perfect for an old machine like mine.

I did a quick stroll through the members list didn't see another 1425 listed. That's OK, I like having one of the originals it is a low 600 hour machine with a smooth running Kohler command 25.

The hydraulic's are super strong not to bad $5,500.00 for a tough old PT. I'm more than happy to put a little bit of money and work into it.

 

[Barryh]

I use two of those ("flood" versions) on the front of my zero turn mower for cutting at dusk/night. They work great and were cheap as heck ~$18 for the pair.

Good to know thanks.