Buying Advice Early '60's MF 35 Utility

[shaeff]

I think you're correct on the oil. At tsc if near you you'll find the oil specified for old ford tractors. I was told to run all hydraulic oil in transmission , hydraulics & rear end. I like the idea of good 85w in trans though.

So straight 30wt or the closest I can get for the motor, and all hydraulic in everything else then? Isn't the transmission and rear end all connected as far as oiling goes?

 

[Kenneth S]

The facing material on the clutch disks are contaminated with oil (clutch will start slipping), and water. When splitting a tractor having a large enough, flat, relatively smooth concrete surface to work on sure makes it a lot easier. The trans/hydraulic oil SAE 80 GL1 (mineral oil, same as the early Ford's), Tractor Supply usually has it in stock.

 

[shaeff]

The facing material on the clutch disks are contaminated with oil (clutch will start slipping), and water. When splitting a tractor having a large enough, flat, relatively smooth concrete surface to work on sure makes it a lot easier. The trans/hydraulic oil SAE 80 GL1 (mineral oil, same as the early Ford's), Tractor Supply usually has it in stock.

Clear as day, thanks.

Yeah I'll definitely look for oil contamination. My bet is that it's going to have to come apart. If I can push it off until spring/summer would be great, though, and I'll try not to work it too hard this winter. I'm running out of time for lots of different things, my wife and I just built a new house this year, and got married. Lots of money sucking things, pushing this off until spring (if possible) would be great. That all depends on how bad the leak is while the tractor is running, and how the clutch is after all of that.

My father has a garage with a 2.5 ton electric winch mounted on an I-beam that runs dead center to the vehicle as it's parked, would be perfect for splitting the tractor as long as I can get him to leave his car outside!

 

[Garycw]

So straight 30wt or the closest I can get for the motor, and all hydraulic in everything else then? Isn't the transmission and rear end all connected as far as oiling goes?

Yes, but if you're planning on using this winter a 10-30w would be better in motor, Then go straight 30w in summer

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Obviously, to each his/her own, but I run 15-40 diesel oil in all my tractor's engines (including all the gas tractors as well). Shell Rotella has a goodly amount of zinc in it...which is good for valve tappets...it also helps in really hot weather as the PSI on the oil pump will usually be a bit higher than with light vis. oil. BobG in VA

 

[SIMassey]

Obviously, to each his/her own, but I run 15-40 diesel oil in all my tractor's engines (including all the gas tractors as well). Shell Rotella has a goodly amount of zinc in it...which is good for valve tappets...it also helps in really hot weather as the PSI on the oil pump will usually be a bit higher than with light vis. oil. BobG in VA

X2. Zinc in these old motors is your best friend.

 

[Kenneth S]

Shell Rotella 15w40 in anything on the farm with a engine. You can work the tractor some after it got oil on the clutch just go easy so you don't slip the clutch. Once the clutch disks get glazed, just like brake shoes when they get oil on them, and they get hot from slipping they don't work very well afterwards.

 

[Garycw]

I would have to concede the shell rotella heavy duty diesel 15-40w is the best all round oil for most applications.i store it up when on sale. The 2 gal jugs are handy for old oil too. I paint it on plows, discs & cutters for rust protection

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thanks for the tip, Bob, I'll definitely check it out!



You and me both!


This tractor will see LOTS of use clearing snow all winter, moving firewood around, brush hogging in summer, and finish mowing a minimum of 2.5 rolling acres, unless I decide to finish mow the entire 4.5 acre lot.

I've still got a good deal of clearing to do as well, that'll work it for sure.

Edit: from what I've been able to find, most guys seem to run straight 30wt mineral oil in the motor, trans, and hydraulics. Is that correct? Thanks, all!

Take a look at the MF 35 owners manual. I'm sure it will spec 90W mineral oil in temps above 50F and 80 W for lower temperatures. Most people will use UTF (Universal Tractor Fluid) or MF Hytran as the transhydraulic fludi in these machines. You can use a lot of different oils but you should use the factory recommendation. UTF meets the OEM specs for almost all these older tractors. I'd only use motor oil as a last choice if I could not find UTF or in an emergency.

If you have a separate hydraulic system for your loader, you should use the OEM recommendation also. It's usually AW46.

 

[shaeff]

Great information, everyone. Hoping to get some more work in on it this weekend if time permits. I've got tune-up stuff and shifter boots on the way already, I just have to pick up some good crimp terminals so I can rewire the whole tractor.

Once I see how bad this leak actually is will determine my next step. I certainly don't want to leave the current oil in the transmission/rear if it's got water in it, but also don't want to fill it with new oil prior to potentially splitting the tractor (if it comes to that).

Edit: Jerry just reminded me- I need to order factory service manuals for it!