CK series owners- clarify where you fill your engine oil: location on engine

[Coyote machine]

Not a picture, but a parts diagram. You can see how breather tube comes off of the side of valve cover, near the top. Also, it is only a few inches to the port/nipple on the intake manifold. The problem some have had with oil infiltrating the manifold during an oil change, is easily solved by using a funnel that won't flow as fast as the oil will come out of bottle.

The real problem with this design, is what the blowby gases (and their contents), will do to your intake valves......but I've already covered that in my earlier post.

View attachment 448228

Seems the biggest obstacle to oil flow from the head to the pan is part #7, what appears to be a baffle.
And yes, using a funnel would slow the flow. If there's an alternative fill location on an engine, I'd tend to want to use it to prevent mishaps. YMMV.

 

[747driver]

After research and reading posts i have decided to take this route. I want to take the valve cover off and check valve springs,tappets and push rods to see if any damage has occurred as i did have a partial hydro lok. Check pvc valve, breather tube and fittings and clean excess oil if any can be found from the overfilling into the intake manifold. Is this a viable route to take to start troubleshooting the problem of smoking and tapping sound ? If i find nothing then it will be going to the dealer. Just want to do the easy stuff myself and maybe find the problem and fix it before going to the dealer ? Is there anything special i should be looking for other than what i have already mentioned ? Thanks again everyone !

 

[ritcheyvs]

After research and reading posts i have decided to take this route. I want to take the valve cover off and check valve springs,tappets and push rods to see if any damage has occurred as i did have a partial hydro lok. Check pvc valve, breather tube and fittings and clean excess oil if any can be found from the overfilling into the intake manifold. Is this a viable route to take to start troubleshooting the problem of smoking and tapping sound ? If i find nothing then it will be going to the dealer. Just want to do the easy stuff myself and maybe find the problem and fix it before going to the dealer ? Is there anything special i should be looking for other than what i have already mentioned ? Thanks again everyone !

I doubt you can learn anything by removing the valve cover. There are no push rods; the cam shaft is under the valve cover and it connects to the crankshaft with a gear. The typical damage from hydro-lock is a bent connecting rod such that the piston no longer travels to the full up position at TDC. A slightly bent rod would be consistent with your symptoms: not enough compression to burn all the fuel until the engine warms up. But a weak glow plug or poor injector spray pattern could also cause those same symptoms. I don't know if the starter motor has enough torque to actually bend a connecting rod. If you did bend a rod, replacement won't be cheap but it can be done without splitting the tractor or removing the engine if the bore is OK.

You might be interested to read KiotiD's account of his bent rod. But he went into the water with a running tractor; a condition much more likely to bend a rod

I would consider doing a compression test before you disassemble anything. That will require a real Diesel compression gauge (the gas engine type won't work) with an adapter for the injector hole or glow plug hole. All injectors or glow plugs must be removed for this test so the engine can spin freely and the engine should first be warmed up.

On the other hand the tractor seems to start and run OK so why mess with it unless it gets worse?

 

[Coyote machine]

If you want a baseline result of what is going on with your engine, a compression test would, as stated give you some numbers. Your dealer could do it for you and has all the necessary tools to do so.
It occurs to me that you don't know for sure that the symptoms you are experiencing are directly related to the small amount of coolant that mixed with your oil in the mishap. It's unlikely, but might be worth checking to see if your injectors and glow plugs are all functioning correctly. Smoking can be related to a jammed or slightly jammed injector, or a faulty glow plug not preheating the cylinder chamber.
At any rate, make sure all systems are functioning properly in the start circuit before taking any engine components down.

 

[Coyote machine]

If you want a baseline result of what is going on with your engine, a compression test would, as stated give you some numbers. Your dealer could do it for you and has all the necessary tools to do so.
It occurs to me that you don't know for sure that the symptoms you are experiencing are directly related to the small amount of coolant that mixed with your oil in the mishap. It's unlikely, but might be worth checking to see if your injectors and glow plugs are all functioning correctly. Smoking can be related to a jammed or slightly jammed injector, or a faulty glow plug not preheating the cylinder chamber.
At any rate, make sure all systems are functioning properly in the start circuit before taking any engine components down.

 

[747driver]

this is the video i took after the first oil change.

 

[747driver]

this is the video i took after the 3rd oil change and 3 hours on the engine since 1st oil change. The smoke seems to be clearing up.

 

[Coyote machine]

Hate to disappoint you, but the second video still shows a lot of smoke.:confused3:

 

[747driver]

Hate to disappoint you, but the second video still shows a lot of smoke.:confused3:

This is at idle....when i go to power ( 2,000 ) the smoke really fades. I know it still smokes but better than from the beginning. Will take it to the dealer for a compression check and injector test.

 

[747driver]

Hate to disappoint you, but the second video still shows a lot of smoke.:confused3:

No...i am not disappointed, just bummed out !!