Need 220vAC electrical help - change 4 prong outlet to 3-prong

[buickanddeere]

He right about this. It's not "totally original". I am interested in whether it's "wrong" (other than morally).


:laughing: :laughing: I made a mistake once (thought I was wrong, but I was right). :laughing: :laughing:

The problem is that the most of the audience is limited in electrical theory and practical electrical experience . The National Electrical Code book is considered a good coaster for beverages. To top it off , most people think " because it works" it must be "right".
How pray tell am I going to explain anything? It would be like giving road directions with every other word English then French.
Does anybody here think that the four wire plug had all four wires for a reason and each wire served an individual and unique purpose ?

 

[Sodo]

I'm not saying you're wrong, but you seemed to say I was. The reason for 4 wires makes sense. Using 5 wires (adding a 2nd redundant ground to a 4-wire) might be better, offering the safety of redundancy. Who could argue? Hey! Pay attention don't trip over that wire and hit your head!

So are you saying my old generator (3-wire) is "WRONG"?

 

[Big Barn]

I will start off saying that I know a little less than not much regarding matters electrical.
However, from his double post I can assume he is trying to tell you that two wrongs do not make a right.

Terry

 

[Sodo]

Terry nothing gets past you!!
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

 

[C4Ranch]

So I'm getting ready to do this exact same thing with the same generator.

Do I just she'll out the $80 for this 14-50P to 6-50R Range / Welder Adapter Cord - Corddepot.com

Or do what u did and build myself? I can't imagine the one for sale is doing it any differently??

 

[robstaples]

Sodo, As you know your welder is 220 and only uses 2 hot wires for power. The third is safety ground. I see no reason to connect to the neutral in a male plug. If you gen is wired back as originally built, then it is fine and just disconnect from the green to neutral in the plug. Some readers are concerned about lessons learned in this forum. The plug internal connection is unnecessary and technically not following NEC. The neutral and ground are connected in one spot in your generator. Same as in a main panel. If you were to plug the jumper in somewhere else, it would work as it will here but be against code. Fwiw. Rob --retired EE from electric utility

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I haven't read all the posts here but am really confused by all the conflicting answers. Everyone seems to make it complicated and/or expensive. Why not do this: Use a standard 50A plug that fits your generator receptacle, connect the 3 cord wires to the terminals as Black, Black/Red, green to the ground, and forget about the white terminal. It always bothers me when folks think they know but really have no clue. Has been known to Kill.

Ron

 

[LittleBill21]

I haven't read all the posts here but am really confused by all the conflicting answers. Everyone seems to make it complicated and/or expensive. Why not do this: Use a standard 50A plug that fits your generator receptacle, connect the 3 cord wires to the terminals as Black, Black/Red, green to the ground, and forget about the white terminal. It always bothers me when folks think they know but really have no clue. Has been known to Kill.

Ron

i would have to agree with this, some people have no clue.

most generators grounds are actually tied to the frame of the genny and nothing else, if you were to connect anything it would be the neutral and not the ground since, nothing 120v would work. an actual wiring diagram of the generator is actually needed, or a volt meter to check to see if the ground and neutral are bonded.

 

[Sodo]

For Mr. Homeowner to plug in any 4-wire plug he must first unplug the dongle-plug that's bonding ground and neutral. Ground and neutral miraculously un-bond at that moment. No problem, it's instantly restored to original.

Let's move to something a little less obvious. I have a 3-prong ext cord that has 240v and 120v. So if I'm using 240v on the 3-holer (with N-G bonded), LDCravey are you saying that having a 120v angle grinder plugged into one of the legs is dangerous?

 

[BukitCase]

Sodo, LDC got it right in post#23 - couldn't have said it better myself. However - and this is up to YOU how you want to take it -

IF your grinder is a 2-prong (not 3 with the ground cut off) then it is supposed to be double insulated, which makes it nearly impossible for any part of the grinder you can TOUCH getting hot from EITHER blade of its cord.

So, IF - your (not to code) 3 conductor cord is wired so that the 120 volt receptacle's HOT side is wired to a hot from the 240 (SMALL slot in receptacle is HOT) then, although this is NOT code, it will work. Your grinder won't know WHERE its "neutral" is coming from, it doesnt USE a ground, so it will work.

If you have an old workhorse grinder with REAL METAL in more of the case than just the gearbox, forget it. Death can be nature's way of telling you you're stupid...

Some types of 3 conductor cord use 1 size smaller wire for ground, assuming it's being used to code. Wiring as above, if done at all, should de-rate current to the SMALLEST size wire in the cable.

I am NOT, repeat NOT, recommending that anyone DO this - I really hate giving advice along this line because sooner or later someone who should never even TOUCH power tools will ***-u-me something that was never intended.

Also, any cord you wire that way should be INDELIBLY MARKED as such and NOT sold or given to anyone else, EVER... Steve