L3200/3800/3301/3901 Rear Hydraulic Remotes Install Corrections/Hints

[s219]

I can't think of anything new to add. But the valves have been working great, no complaints.

Valve type selection really needs to be based on what you plan to run. Get at least one valve with the float detent for your box blade and bush hog.

For a log splitter, you'd want a standard detent valve (so you can lock it open). However, make sure the tractor has enough hydraulic flow for the splitter you want to run before you commit to a 3-point splitter.

The basic double acting valve (which I believe has to be valve #1) is good for cylinders that you want to move in/out without needing a detent or a float.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Resurrecting an older thread.
I'm getting ready to do this and was wondering if you guys that did it already like S219 have any comments, do or don'ts, and best/only place to order the parts?
I was thinking of adding the third valve at same time. Any recommendations for its configuration?

This is for a 3301/HST.
Current implements
FEL,grapple w/electric Diverter valve, box blade, brush hog and 3pt receiver hitch.

I plan on getting.
Top and tilt
Pallet forks for front and rear
Flail mower
Log splitter
Post hole digger
Prob some more I don't know about yet.
I have experience in hydraulics and will be making or modifying toys to work with the tractor as time goes by.
Thanks

Unless you are just dead set on having the integrated valve system, you can get better valves for less money going after market. About a $1000 less.

 

[Fallon]

My install is documented at http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/295816-kubota-l3200-tnt-3rd-function.html. I love that valve I got from MtnViewRanch.

I'm not quite as happy with my install, especially my disconnects mounting location. They are to close to the 3pt & quick hitch. If I had to do it over I'd mount them higher so it would be less cramped. My first TnT hoses got mangled because of poor design. My 2nd set is better, but still not ideal.

With all the disconnects being so close I have had a hard time keeping those fittings tight. At least one is weeping & its to cramped to get a wrench in there to tighten things & I'm to lazy to pull things apart to pull stuff apart to fix it.

I LOVE float on the toplink & its kind of nice on the side link at times. Get a detented valve if you need constant flow for a splitter or something.

I just got a truck plow ($100 at an auction, in need of a rebuild & fabbing up the SSQA) with hydraulics to replace my current manual one. Debating whether to add a diverter for my lift or curl circuit or just running a hose to the back for my 3rd function.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My install is documented at http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/295816-kubota-l3200-tnt-3rd-function.html. I love that valve I got from MtnViewRanch.

I'm not quite as happy with my install, especially my disconnects mounting location. They are to close to the 3pt & quick hitch. If I had to do it over I'd mount them higher so it would be less cramped. My first TnT hoses got mangled because of poor design. My 2nd set is better, but still not ideal.

With all the disconnects being so close I have had a hard time keeping those fittings tight. At least one is weeping & its to cramped to get a wrench in there to tighten things & I'm to lazy to pull things apart to pull stuff apart to fix it.

I LOVE float on the toplink & its kind of nice on the side link at times. Get a detented valve if you need constant flow for a splitter or something.

I just got a truck plow ($100 at an auction, in need of a rebuild & fabbing up the SSQA) with hydraulics to replace my current manual one. Debating whether to add a diverter for my lift or curl circuit or just running a hose to the back for my 3rd function.

Just as a heads up, I got a few of the low cost electric diverters in, I can get it to your door for $110 if you decide to go that way.

 

[Fallon]

Just as a heads up, I got a few of the low cost electric diverters in, I can get it to your door for $110 if you decide to go that way.

I hear, but have never bother trying to confirm that my dump circuit is regen only. Which wouldn't end up working so well to operate a pair of single action cylinders. Might be hitting you up if I ever figure it out. Going to be a good few months before I get my new blade built, then won't need it until next winter.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I hear, but have never bother trying to confirm that my dump circuit is regen only. Which wouldn't end up working so well to operate a pair of single action cylinders. Might be hitting you up if I ever figure it out. Going to be a good few months before I get my new blade built, then won't need it until next winter.

Just use the lift circuit. Someone on the orange forum supposedly has the problem resolved by using double acting cylinders, not sure how, but that is what they say.

 

[avc8130]

Just use the lift circuit. Someone on the orange forum supposedly has the problem resolved by using double acting cylinders, not sure how, but that is what they say.

I use a plow with a single double acting cylinder and a grapple with a pair of double acting cylinders with my diverter on a regen dump circuit. It "works".

ac

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I use a plow with a single double acting cylinder and a grapple with a pair of double acting cylinders with my diverter on a regen dump circuit. It "works".

ac

Are you talking about your L45? If so, that valve should have a 4 position curl circuit with the regen being a separate position. Not a problem.

On the economy L models, the regen is the only dump position. It will work on a double acting cylinder, although should be slower one direction vs the other, but not with single acting units typically used on a plow.

Not saying that is how it actually is, but how it seems like it should be. :confused2:

 

[avc8130]

Are you talking about your L45? If so, that valve should have a 4 position curl circuit with the regen being a separate position. Not a problem.

On the economy L models, the regen is the only dump position. It will work on a double acting cylinder, although should be slower one direction vs the other, but not with single acting units typically used on a plow.

Not saying that is how it actually is, but how it seems like it should be. :confused2:

I am, and that is not true. The L45 has a regen-only valve. I've posted the hydraulic schematic from the service manual here:



It does work the cylinder pretty slowly in whatever the "dump" direction is. It also winds up having no power up against the stop in that direction. I plan to switch to the lift circuit once the weather is nicer as I can't clamp onto things with the grapple well.

ac

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am, and that is not true. The L45 has a regen-only valve. I've posted the hydraulic schematic from the service manual here:



It does work the cylinder pretty slowly in whatever the "dump" direction is. It also winds up having no power up against the stop in that direction. I plan to switch to the lift circuit once the weather is nicer as I can't clamp onto things with the grapple well.

ac

I am very surprised that a true TLB has this type of valve. Thank you for clearing this up and admitting that on the regen side it is slow and has basically no power. There have been other discussions on other forums where the guys say every thing works fine, same speed, same amount of power etc. I questioned them, but to no avail. It makes no actual difference to me, I don't have those types of valves on anything.

Thanks again. :thumbsup: