Kioti Maintenance

   / Kioti Maintenance #21  
Reedy Creek Equipment Co. located in N.C.
Great to work with...locktite on critical bolts, loaded rears, and delivered free...spent a good 2 hours reviewing everything on tractor and backhoe.
 
   / Kioti Maintenance #22  
If you've got the coin, consider a G-gun. It works great. Except in winter, it likes to stay warm (not below 15°F for the type of grease I'm using) so I bring it in the night before to warm up the grease.

 
   / Kioti Maintenance
  • Thread Starter
#24  
12Bravo, have you greased it yet?

I have already went trough one tube of grease. I grease the BH and FEl daily when I plan to use it more than a couple times.

Greased it really good this morning, digging another stump. Got 38 hours on it now, so will be doing the 50 hour service soon.
 
   / Kioti Maintenance #26  
The G-Gun looks cool, especially if you do your greasing "in the field." Some folks love those battery-operated grease guns but they are costly and I assume the battery will always need to be charged before you can use them (if they are anything like my battery drills). I normally drive my tractor up to my workshop for maintenance and I have a compressed air hose at the workshop. So I bought a pneumatic grease gun like this one, and added a lock-n-lube coupler, of course. This gun has a provision for bulk fill but I just use ordinary grease tubes. So far it has served me well. I find it really helps to be able to pump grease using just one hand (vs a manual lever gun which requires both hands).
 
   / Kioti Maintenance #27  
I bought a 18v Milwaukee grease gun, ya they cost a bit but they're really nice, I figured I'd be more likely to actually grease my stuff if I had a grease gun that wasn't a pain in the *** to use. It holds a pretty good charge I'm a heavy equipment operator and when I'm working I leave it in my truck to use at work, I am eventually going to pick up a spare battery so I have one in case I forget to bring it in to charge
 
   / Kioti Maintenance
  • Thread Starter
#28  
All right all you good tractor people I am in need of some clarification. The owners manual isn't the best so I will just ask.

on the 50 hour service it states Oil, Oil Filter, transmission Filter and Fuel Filter.

Now I will need oil for the oil change manual say's 5.5 Liters, what oil are you all using?

Transmission filter, in the book it makes it sound like you have to change the fluid when changing the filter but doesn't state to change the transmission fluid till 400 hours. So where does that leave me?

If I am understanding this correctly, the transmission and hydraulic fluid is the same and is filled behind the right tire where the dip stick is (if you are standing behind tractor and looking towards the front).
 
   / Kioti Maintenance #30  
All right all you good tractor people I am in need of some clarification. The owners manual isn't the best so I will just ask.

on the 50 hour service it states Oil, Oil Filter, transmission Filter and Fuel Filter.

Now I will need oil for the oil change manual say's 5.5 Liters, what oil are you all using?

Transmission filter, in the book it makes it sound like you have to change the fluid when changing the filter but doesn't state to change the transmission fluid till 400 hours. So where does that leave me?

If I am understanding this correctly, the transmission and hydraulic fluid is the same and is filled behind the right tire where the dip stick is (if you are standing behind tractor and looking towards the front).

OK, let me try to help. I use just simple Rotella 15W40. I am fairly warm here just like you in TN so it should work for you too. But make sure you use a diesel grade oil. Some use the Dello and some use the synthetics. Fine by me, as long as it is a diesel rated oil to hold the soot in suspension. The way I read my manual I wanted to change the 11 gallons o transmission/hydraulic fluid at 50. Many read it differently and don't change until 400 hrs. I was glad I changed, as a lot of "crap" that looked like maybe paint from inside the transmission housing came out. It is up to you. some do, some don't. Yes the transmission fluid and hydraulic fluid is all the same thing. I am using Mobilfluid 424. But several others are specified in the manual as well. Shell Spirax/Donax fluid specified for tractors. It must say something like formulated for wet brakes on the pail.

If you want to change just the filters not the fluid, you will need a method to make the change without loosing to much fluid. There are several methods, the vacuum cleaner method, the extreme angle parking method and my method.

My method is best. No one believes me, but trust me it is. Take a machine screw or golf tee and plug up the hole in the end of the little shepherds crook on the filler neck rubber plug. The theory is if you don't let air into the top of the "tank" then fluid won't come out very fast at all. Trust me this works. Be sure to have a chain wrench or a really big set of channel locks to be able to take the hydraulic filter loose.. The things are put on by a 800 lb Gorilla with some kind of impact took than tightened with a 10 foot cheater bar. yeah that bad. Be ready for that. Of course your tractor is much newer and it may not even be a problem any more, but in the past it has been a real problem.

Engine Oil goes in the orange rubber plug on the injector plug. You should not have any problem with the engine oil filter. I had no trouble with hydrostatic transmission filter either. I was thinking your tractor was gear so you would not have one of those.

Don't forget the final drive drains on each rear axle either. It is not just the big main drain, you will about a gallon each from those final drive cases. Be sure to do the front axle too with those low down drains by each wheel. Also when you put fluid back in the front axle check it and top up severl times after running it. it takes time to get all the air out and the actual fluid level where you want it. I hope this helped.
 

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