Harbor Freight Quick hitch

[PhysAssist]

I haven't done a lot of research on the speeco but there is a possibility that the hitch is the issue and not the implements. I think the only hitch I've read that doesn't need modified is the landpride and deer.

From my reading about these, it isn't typically the QH, it's the older implements, because except for the very earliest of the HF QH's, they meet the QH standard specification measurements.

Mine was bought new in 2011 and typical of the the newer ones, it fit all the QH spec sheet measurements.

However, all my implements were older, even the ballast box we got new with our 2011 B2320, and they all needed modification.

Having done them though, I love the ease it has given me in exchanging my implements, and it was less work than all the other options available for making 3-point attachments easy to exchange.

 

[TheSpoon]

From my reading about these, it isn't typically the QH, it's the older implements, because except for the very earliest of the HF QH's, they meet the QH standard specification measurements.

Mine was bought new in 2011 and typical of the the newer ones, it fit all the QH spec sheet measurements.

However, all my implements were older, even the ballast box we got new with our 2011 B2320, and they all needed modification.

Having done them though, I love the ease it has given me in exchanging my implements, and it was less work than all the other options available for making 3-point attachments easy to exchange.

Well, that may be true, but my tractor, qh, box blade, rotary mower, and middle buster are all new (everything purchased new this year) . The spacings for everything are all correct and the qh would work for it all... Except that the hook on the hitch needs to be ground out so the top link connection of each implement would actually fit. Now, I could have just purchased an old make of the qh that was still new in box, but as it stands I've needed to purchase a top link adapter to make the qh usable.

 

[PhysAssist]

Well, that may be true, but my tractor, qh, box blade, rotary mower, and middle buster are all new (everything purchased new this year) . The spacings for everything are all correct and the qh would work for it all... Except that the hook on the hitch needs to be ground out so the top link connection of each implement would actually fit. Now, I could have just purchased an old make of the qh that was still new in box, but as it stands I've needed to purchase a top link adapter to make the qh usable.

I will admit that the top link connections using QH's can be problematic, but that appears to be a common factor to all QH's, except those few that include a toplink adapter with their QH, or have otherwise modified their toplink area to provide better clearance.

Those manufacturers are few and far between.

What I was referring to in your quote was the previously frequent comments and complaints from people who bought 'China-made' QH's including HF and others, that there were significant variances in the spacing between the 2 lower links and the top link, which made it very hard to use even QH-standard compliant implements, leading to people questioning whether the concept of using a QH was a even valid option.

See, way back when as I was researching and trying to decide if buying a QH was a viable way to go, and whether buying a cheaper model (HF) would be pennywise and pound foolish, I read a lot of the old posts from when these QH discussions first began on TBN and the other tractor forums, (and some older email lists), and figured out (for me) what the actual overall pros and cons of each method involved.

 

[JRobyn]

.....

Another poster mentioned mods that you might want to make. A couple of years ago I made the mod that one of our members came up with to replace the bolt holding the adjustable top hook with a pin that is flush with the outer walls of its bracket. Prevents interference that the head and nut on the factory-supplied bolt can cause with some implements. See pic:

Threepoint, could you please share more details and/or a link to another thread to show exactly how you did those flush pins? I need to do that in order to connect to my box blade top connection.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Threepoint, could you please share more details and/or a link to another thread to show exactly how you did those flush pins? I need to do that in order to connect to my box blade top connection.

This thread has some solutions.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/206455-another-quick-hitch-mod.html

 

[arrow]

Two years ago I paid $219 for a cat.1 Speeco QH. A Speeco has decals that state such on the QH itself. As to whether or not they are any better than anything else (they certainly seem the most expensive) I'd have no clue. I just thought that if I were dragging 4000 lb tree stems, I wanted something that could hold up. For all I know, the Chinese ones would have done just as well.

 

[Threepoint]

Threepoint, could you please share more details and/or a link to another thread to show exactly how you did those flush pins? I need to do that in order to connect to my box blade top connection.

JRobyn, the great thread Downsizingnow48 linked to above by KennyG has good pics of what I'm referring to.

Rather than cut down two hitch pins (which I didn't have on hand), I just made pins by trimming down the two bolts that came with the hitch. Trim them so the ends are flush with the outside walls of the bracket. Then drill one small hole in each pin, at the unthreaded shank end, about 3/16" from the end, for a small hair-pin clip. Assuming you have the hair-pins clips on hand, that may save you a trip to the store. The stock bolts have held up fine for me in two years of heavy use.

On both of my HF QHs there was enough clearance between the top hook and the inside wall of the bracket so that I didn't need to grind the side of the hook. As you can see from the pics, you only need one hair-pin clip for each pin. I also didn't cut a screwdriver slot in the pins as Kenny did. I've found it's easy to just push on the clips to position them out of the way as necessary.

 

[Fallon]

I replace the bolts on the top hook with appropriately sized pins. Makes for easier adjustment for odd sized stuff or the flex link on mowers.

I also weld a 1.5-2" extension onto the back of the top hook & redrill the holes so it sticks back further & won't hit impliment frames. Done this on my Northern Tool QH, the garage sale find QH I welded to a SSQA plate (makes moving & loading things a breeze & is the pivot for my snow plow) & for a friend I picked up a HF QH for.

All 3 were the same quality & needed too hook work. One or 2 needed some grinding on the lift hooks to fit proper 3pt pins/bushings. Don't remember if any top hooks needed grinding.

 

[JRobyn]

Thanks all, got it.

I've looked through this thread several times and (I think) all of the related ones. And posted in a couple; I'm now not sure which ones! In a post somewhere I asked (and will ask again here), what do y'all suppose is the likelihood that the "pinned pin" method might see enough force to spread the side plates and pull the hook and pins out? I might have enough clearance to use a clipped head bolt and nut trimmed to be just barely long enough. So would only be a nut protruding.

My other remaining issue, that I recall being mentioned, but I don't remember seeing an answer for, is how one attaches the QH top hook to a Bush Hog brand bushhog with the swiveling top link connection? It seems that just gravity would not be sufficient to keep the pin in the QH hook. Any proven solutions? I'm thinking that drilling a hole perpendicularly through the QH hook for a long pin would do it. Or maybe a heavy trucker's bungee to hold the swivel-link down in the hook?

 

[bcp]

I put the swiveling link behind the A-frame instead of in front.

Here's one version:



Bruce