Hitch pin hole repair

[BWSwede]

This is such a helpful site I thought I would post another question.

I have a front 3 point hitch on my tractor and the pin hole where the hydraulic cylinder hooks up has be elongated. The attached pictures show the condition.

I have an idea of a way to fix it but it involves cutting most of the existing tab off and starting over. Does anyone hear have a better and more clever idea how to get this pin hole round and back to the original size again? The steel in which the hole is located is 1" thick.

TIA,
BWSwede

 

[kevin37b]

Looks like the bottom of the hole is fairly true ? I would open it up a bit and sleeve it and fill the top . Should not have to cut it off . Can you cut and weld ?

 

[stuckmotor]

FARM SHOW - Slick New Way To Make Welding Repairs

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Drill or bore it out on a drill press or mill to a size of a replacement bushing. I use shaft coupling to make bushings like that. Either size to a press fit or weld both ends. You may need to use an expanding reamer to clean up after pressing or mostly welding.

Ron

 

[npalen]

I might consider making a new piece and torching the old one off the tube. Grind smooth and weld the new one on being careful to clock it same as the old one.

 

[BWSwede]

Thank you for the replies.

I knew I could cut most of the tab off and start over but I was looking for another, more clever, way of repairing it. The Farm Show ad that stuck posted is an interesting solution. I checked them out but they no longer have a web page. I'll try calling the guy listed to see if he is still around. One problem I see for me with this solution is that I only have a mig welder and welding into a 1/2" deep hole (from both sides) requires about a 3/4" stick-out and that does not work so well.

Kevin and Seabee, your solutions also sounds better than cutting it off but I am not sure how to open it up. I can't fit the hitch into a drill press (at least not mine) and a magdrill is too large to mount on the tab. Any ideas? I can't imaging hand holding a 1.5" diameter hole saw and having it work very well.

npalen's idea is sort of where I started and I am hoping where I don't end up. I imagine I would need to a 1" full penetration weld to get the original strength back. Would you guys agree?

Thanks again guys.

BWSwede

 

[Birdhunter1]

Thank you for the replies.

I imagine I would need to a 1" full penetration weld to get the original strength back. Would you guys agree?

Thanks again guys.

BWSwede

No, I would sleeve it with a bushing and weld it to the tab on the ends of the bushing. When the bushing looks like it is starting to wear cut it out and replace it. Is it possible to install a grease fitting into where this pin goes?

 

[npalen]

Since you mentioned the mag base drill, would it be possible to clamp (or tackweld) a steel plate flat to the damaged ear and then mount the mag base on the plate? I'm assuming there would be sufficient distance from the hole location to the edge of the tube to clear the mag base drill.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Can you open the hole for the bushing with a torch ??

 

[Sodo]

I really like that Repair Tech rod method, I'd almost HAVE to try that!

Can you turn it over so you can weld down? Overhead might be more difficult to get good welds.

Pretty easy to build up the inside of that large hole with a MIG. Buildup Weld until the pin is tight, and stop there. Round file it just a little to get the pin in, stop welding just after you get tired of filing. Doesn't have to be flat&perfect, the pin will flatten it some.

Another way is to cut it off and grind the "half" to fit again. You can see the cut angle. Will need to be v'd out - of course. Then you can add new material on the outside, (rods?) where its much easier to grind back to original shape & edge margin. Don't have to ovehead weld with this method.