Hitch pin hole repair

[Sodo]

You believe you're some kind of welding expert because you can pull a trigger on a Mig welder. Trust me you have no idea what it takes to make a living as a welder!

Heck no, I just git er done.

And you truly believe you are a welding expert!:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

I think you made something up,,,,, (again). Shield you are feisty today.

 

[Shield Arc]

Heck no, I just git er done.



I think you made something up,,,,, (again). Shield you are feisty today.

No, I just get tired of your BS. You don't have a clue how to weld, or build anything with steel! You should stick to cutting fire wood with your saw mil.:thumbsup:

 

[BWSwede]

A lot of great ideas posted hear. Now I am not sure which direction to go.

Just to be clear I only have basic tools to work with and only a 260 amp 220v mig welder and a 140 amp 110v set up with flux core.

The first picture is showing how a 1" copper pipe fitting is the perfect size for blocking out the pin hole. You can easily see how much material has been lost. My guess is that it was due probably from an hydraulic cylinder that seeped onto the pin. The oily pin collected dirt which in turn acted like emery cloth on the tab.

The other pictures are showing my 1/2" drill backed as far away as possible. It looks to me like there isn't enough room to chuck a hole saw.

Sorry for the dark images. A storm rolled in and it got dark real quick.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

BWSwede

 

[Sodo]

The 220vMIG for sure. I wouldn't want to be chipping slag out of that hole you'd end up with a bunch of buried slag. Of course it's been done and probably done well long before MIGs existed but I wouldn't put slag in there with a MIG hanging around. Thats IMHO,,, but as our local expert states, I don't have a clue!

I doubt if that thin copper pipe has the "capacity" to take all that heat out while you're jamming wire in there. I'd think it would melt. Then you'd have to weld so slowly and incrementally that you'd just be piling a bunch of cold starts into the hole, and not get the strength you want. Can you create a test weld situation on some significantly thick scrap, see if you can pile weld on that's supported by the copper pipe? This is something I've never done, but I'm interested! LD1 says he's done it, maybe he can give tips on this part.

Clearly the little metal that's remaining is strong enough for what you are doing, so you "could" simply add more metal to start wearing it away again (not worrying about restoring original strength). But what does this component "DO"? Is there a different usage someday, that will require the full strength of that lug? If yes, then you kinda don't want the crappy weld thats inevitable trying to jam wire into that thin slot (where the copper pipe is real close to the steel).

 

[Shield Arc]

Blane if you had a Tig rig, with a gas lens. Tig would be the perfect process to weld around that copper pipe. The gas lens will allow you to use a longer stick out with the tungsten.

 

[bigdeano]

I'd use your original idea and cut most of the tab off and weld on a new piece with a hole in it. Cutting torch, welder, drill press and drill bits. I have those.

 

[LD1]

The copper pipe methind I have done In The past had always worked well. But never done anything that thick either.

If you are worried about heat and deforming the copper, fit a solid round bar inside it.

But given what you have to workwith, cutting the eye off and welding on a new one with a pre-drilled hole may be the better way.

But then again, that can always be a plan b if the copper....or whatever you decide for plan A don't work out

 

[arkydog]

since you already have the copper pipe, how would filling the pipe with water and caping the ends loose for expansion. would the water keep the pipe from absorbing too much heat, take your time and change water with cool often.

 

[Sodo]

since you already have the copper pipe, how would filling the pipe with water and caping the ends loose for expansion. would the water keep the pipe from absorbing too much heat, take your time and change water with cool often.

Don't need to cap it just use a longer pipe and duct tape a hose into one end, turn it on and run water thru (hot water running out the other end). Maybe cap the outlet 'a little' to ensure the top of the pipe where you're welding on has water contact. Looks like you're ready to go with copper. I'll be interested how this works out. I like to see guys fix stuff on the forums, I'm all for satisfaction. Even if you have to go out and buy a TIG rig with a gas lens, and learn how to use it! All the better.

Need I mention I'd already be done with the cap method, wouldn't even have to start my truck to gather any other stuff, but that's because I already have a $7 cutoff disc that will go 2" deep. And I have the 1/4" rod (that I'd stack like logs) to build up the outside to original.

I could also recommend a cold cut carbide skilsaw cuts 2" deep - but mentioning tools you don't have don't help so I won't.

 

[xryan]

Those Repair Tech "rods" are BS. Like another poster said about using a copper pipe, welders have been doing that trick for generations with a block/bar of aluminum keeping the weld bead off a sharp edge or when filling up a through hole.

Seriously though you are making it WAY more complicated than needed. You have ample room to easily cut off the worn out tab, and more than a big enough a welder to put a new on back on with. Cut off the tab, put on a new one with the proper sized hole in it. Drill it on a press, or if you don't have one, pay someone a 6 pack to poke the hole. If you have the new tab ready its an hour job with a grinder and welder, even for an 'ol farmer.