Ford finally came to their senses

[TheGoose]

They FINALLY agreed to sell me a truck at a fair price and no shenanigans. I said bye to GM and their crazy prices and laughable rebates. I've been a GM man all my life but that will only get you so far. Ford's been catching my eye and they finally got me to bite. You can't beat the rebates right now on F150's. My truck stickered for $46290. Internet sales manager gave me invoice ($42020) minus rebates ($9400 of which i qualified for) PLUS a free Yeti Roadie cooler. I told them to keep that and they gave me an extra $300 off. Yeah, that "free" cooler is $300 even though they really sell for $220.lol 2.7 Ecoboost is awesome and I can't wait to see the gas mileage this thing pulls down. I went back and forth over it and the 5.0 but hadn't heard anything bad about then2.7 so I said heck I'll go for it. It's a hotrod for sure! I got the FX4 package so I'd get the 3.55 gears and some other stuff, it's a basic xlt with the 302A package. I'll try to get a better pic later but here's what I bought. View attachment 472605

$46290-->$42020 -$9400-$300 = $32320 So you're telling me you paid a little over $32K for this truck? And did you trade your old truck in?

 

[TheGoose]

As an owner of a '12 F150 I totally disagree. I think these trucks are aimed squarely at the suburban market. I have had multiple problems with mine and I do use it for work. I'm at less than 80K miles and have already spent $3K in maintenance. Maybe I just got a lemon but I'm not impressed with Ford's version of "Ford Tough". PS I think I have a coil going out and I need to investigate that issue now as well as an AC that needs charged every few months.

From a thread on another forum discussing the EcoBoost reaching 1 MILLION sales in the F150:

"I run into a lot of them in commercial use (f150 3.5L), mainly oil and gas. From what i know they are holding up very well; and they dont have any easy life. "

Ford built this thing to last, and to be worked hard.

 

[ruffdog]

Stock holders are not thrilled about the "sell baby sell" mentality just to keep market share. Stock holders want profits.

 

[RollingsFarms]

$46290-->$42020 -$9400-$300 = $32320 So you're telling me you paid a little over $32K for this truck? And did you trade your old truck in?

Yeah those numbers don't include my trade or the $300 in taxes, $150 in total fees (50 doc fee, title registration, and several other $15 fees). I got $15700 for my 2006 Silverado Z71 with 88,000 miles. I had to work for that $15700 though, they wanted to offer me $15000 and I stood firm. I was communicating through email and told them the numbers I needed to be at.

 

[RollingsFarms]

What is everyone's impression of the 2.7 CGI block construction vs the 3.5's more traditional construction? And what would anyone guess the 3.5 would put out once/if redesigned with CGI?

I think the new 3.5 coming out is getting all the technology the 2.7 currently has. The numbers are already out for the 3.5 but I can't remember exactly what they are. I wanna say 380/460

 

[ruffdog]

With the start/stop feature, if it is hot and your running the a/c, the engine will cycle on and off while sitting still at a light.

 

[newbury]

I can in no way afford one but those new 150's are nice... congratulations on the new truck.

I would concider trying to figure out how to wrangle a deal on one if I could haul the whole family with it (8 of us). Wife won't go for me getting a new truck while her Excursion is getting close to 300k miles on it!

Have you looked at the Transport? You can get a dually diesel

Question for ecoboost owners, and anyone else that wants to chime in. I'm reading where most ecoboost owners are doing their first oil change at 1000-2000 miles and then every 5000 after that. The owners manual basically says depending on your usage and environment the truck is used in, you can go 7500 on the FIRST oil change and then every one after that or whatever the oil life monitor calls for. I did see a video on YouTube of a guy with an ecoboost doing an oil change at 2000 miles and his oil was black. I mean diesel oil black. Should I just do the first one at 5000 miles and every 5000 after that or do one at 1000 and then go from there?

Why do people spend so much time worrying about how often to change the oil? Trust but verify. Do a used oil analysis and find out.

<snip>
The proof is in the numbers:

View attachment 473359

The "Make Up Oil" numbers (in the first row) in the above report are not cumulative.

As of 01/22/09, there were a total of 24,976 miles on the sump since the last full oil change.

I ran it another 26,398 miles after that (186,657 miles on the vehicle or "unit") ... before I actually drained the sump and did a full oil change.

So ... a total of 51,374 miles between full oil changes.

With the way it was going, I probably could have ran it for another 50K before doing a full change.

(Edit: Corrected numbers after verifying with maintenance log)

<snip> I think as long as I can afford to drive, I can afford to change the oil and filter a little more often than every 51,000 miles.

An oil and filter change if I do it myself costs me about $100 on my F350. I found I could go about 20,000 miles based on UOA's, getting results like rs showed above. Skipping 3 oil/filter changes saved me about $300 and an hours work, plus the cleanup etc.
Again, trust but verify. Especially with older engines, newer oils and a bypass filter.

 

[Arc weld]

What is everyone's impression of the 2.7 CGI block construction vs the 3.5's more traditional construction? And what would anyone guess the 3.5 would put out once/if redesigned with CGI?

The CGI block allows it to be thinner thus saving weight. Power numbers would come from the internals. The CGI block may allow for more HP and have a better power to weight ratio but by itself wouldn't add any HP. Not much different than an aluminum block, it's lighter. I'm really impressed with the 2.7 and it seems to get great mileage. I filled up yesterday and got close to 1200kms from a tank of gas.

 

[TomSeller]

The CGI block allows it to be thinner thus saving weight. Power numbers would come from the internals. The CGI block may allow for more HP and have a better power to weight ratio but by itself wouldn't add any HP. Not much different than an aluminum block, it's lighter. I'm really impressed with the 2.7 and it seems to get great mileage. I filled up yesterday and got close to 1200kms from a tank of gas.

I believe they can run higher pressures with CGI which would indicate more possible output

 

[sparc]

How is the aluminum going to rust anyway?

It will corrode, especially in places where it gets scratched. I drove a Hummer H1 for 14 years
and it has a body made from 6061T6 Aluminum. The body panels overlapped and were riveted
and glued together using some adhesive that stays pliable. The body panels are designed to move
(slip against each other) as the frame twists when traversing rough terrain. The rivet holes were
slotted on one panel so the panel could move. It's only a fraction but it makes all the difference.

Any place where salt could collect or where there were scratches, and being as I took it on trails
and did a little climbing up some mountainsides in PA it got some trail stripes. Drove a few creek
beds for a miles or more through 3 foot deep water with the interior of the truck flooded up to
keep it from floating, so the whole lower portion of the body was completely submerged in fresh
water ( I never drove on the beach or through salt or brackish water).

In the winter driving on NY and NJ roads where they are known to salt it was important to rinse
the body AND the underside off regularly. I noticed that around the lights that corrosion would
seem to start there. Maybe it had something to do with the where the lights were grounded and/or
maybe it was just that dirt and salt could accumulate in the crevices around the lights.

I don't know if any of this will apply to the aluminum F-150 but it might give you a few things to
consider depending on how you use your truck and where you live.