Trailer got stolen, so decided to build one

[sldva00]

... From looking at the pictures though, are the cross pieces big enough? It looks like 1x2 tube and from the way I over load trailers I would think they are a little small, or not?

I don't want to pick on your job but it seems like for a heavy trailer like that they at least should be on edge for more load capability. Looks very nice though and good weld.

You can pick all you want. I won't get offended, and I don't have a problem receiving criticism, If I did, i wouldn't have started a thread. Trust me, I always have room for learning. The crossmembers on the outside are 2x2x3/16, The outside 2ft. on both ends of trailer will be decked with diamond plate so I can weld some D-rings on the corners, The middle crossmembers are 1x2x10ga, This section will be decked with lumber.

The long edge of the deck is 2x4x3/16 resting on 2x6x3/16 which becomes the tongue. The axles are under the 2x6x3/16. The front and back face of deck are 2x6x3/16.

I'll only be hauling my JD2520 and whatever amount of hay the gross weight will allow. I anticipate the trailer weighing around 3k, so that leaves 9k of payload, Axles are 6k each with brakes on both. Tires are 16" rated E. The coupler is rated for 12,500 lbs (Bulldog brand)

I added the tires and had to give it a whirl. Needed to know if it was centered and how it would follow my truck. It trailered nicely. Drove a couple if miles down the road at 55 (Tx Farm Road) and back. Then went down some dirt roads and I couldn't be happier.

Thanks for all the comments folks.

 

[jenkinsph]

The 1x2" tubing laid flat will be too weak, they should be at least 1 1/2 x 3" and be on edge. 2"x3" cross members would be better. The frame will be much stronger than the deck. I would fix this before continuing.

 

[woody]

how long is the tongue and did you use the 60/40 rule on where to mount the axles?

 

[Mysfyt]

The 1x2" tubing laid flat will be too weak, they should be at least 1 1/2 x 3" and be on edge. 2"x3" cross members would be better. The frame will be much stronger than the deck. I would fix this before continuing.

I agree with this. The purpose of the crossmembers is to transfer the weight to the side rails. I would recommend unequal leg angle, such as 3 x 5 x 1/4 on 20" to 24" centers, with the long leg facing down. These would be welded in 1-1/2" lower than the top of your side rails to allow for the lumber. Your deck plate angles would be higher of course. This would also make it easier to bolt the lumber down.

 

[sldva00]

The 1x2" tubing laid flat will be too weak, they should be at least 1 1/2 x 3" and be on edge. 2"x3" cross members would be better. The frame will be much stronger than the deck. I would fix this before continuing.

This was a concern of mine. I'm placing gussets under each crossmember to increase strength. The crossmembers are on 2' centers. I can add more crossmembers so they can be at 1' centers for the middle section.

how long is the tongue and did you use the 60/40 rule on where to mount the axles?

The tongue is 4ft. I did use the 60/40 rule for the axles based on total overall length of trailer of 28' (4' tongue + 20' deck + 4 ' dovetail measured from straight line across deck, not the actual length of deck due to angle). I can jack-knife the trailer without hitting the bumper or bed of truck.

I agree with this. The purpose of the crossmembers is to transfer the weight to the side rails. I would recommend unequal leg angle, such as 3 x 5 x 1/4 on 20" to 24" centers, with the long leg facing down. These would be welded in 1-1/2" lower than the top of your side rails to allow for the lumber. Your deck plate angles would be higher of course. This would also make it easier to bolt the lumber down.

I wanted to make the deck go over the tires. The cross members needed to be on top to go beyond the side rails and over the tires. I think I would have had fits trying to square all the crossmembers to the side rails. Just laying them on top is so simple to square away.

For the most part, I'm building this by myself. I had no idea the time it would take to complete. Just grinding the steel to get ready for welding is back-breaking and takes up most of the day. I did have some nephews help me out when I added the axles/tires. Unfortunately, they can only help me out every other weekend. I'm building the trailer at my cousin's place, but he doesn't help in the build, just provides electricity and the space, which is more help than I can ask for. I am very grateful for this. He's just too busy doing his own stuff.

 

[Renze]

After buying the steel, axles, tires, and everything I needed, the savings wasn't what I expected.

Needed to know if it was centered and how it would follow my truck. It trailered nicely. Drove a couple if miles down the road at 55 (Tx Farm Road) and back. Then went down some dirt roads and I couldn't be happier.

Arent most commercial trailers made of hot rolled C channel ?? Which is the cheapest per pound structural steel you can buy, while the square tubes you use, are the most expensive, maybe 3x more expensive per pound ?

....but tubular steel is torsionally rigid, it makes a trailer follow much nicer, especially on rutted and potholed roads.

Here in Europe all standard 1.8x4m deckover trailers are produced on robot production lines, folded from 2mm tin. If you go to a small shop that makes trailers on demand, you easily pay double the price... But get 10x the value...
At one of my previous jobs a customer said the 5000 euro price tag for a 3.5 ton trailer was a bit steep, he got an offer of less than half the money from a trader (not a builder) We said we can sell you a trade product too if you want... So he did. Within half a year he had the frame cracking, and after a year he was sick of it and ordered another custom built trailer, that lasted 15 years in the same use.
This customer was in the grafiti removal business and hauled a gas powered pressure washer, a 1000 liter buffer tank and a sh*tload of other tools to the job, day in day out.

Anyways, i do agree with the comments on the crossbar size. What i have done when converting a 2 ton on-highway trailer for drainage hose rolls, to an 8 ton farm trailer, is weld a truss underneath the deck, and because i didnt trust the 1 1/8 x 2" crossbeams, i welded a 2x3" tube lengthwise in the center, and supported that two or three times with other trusses. the trailer weighs 1500kg with 13/75-16 implement tires on tandem, but when a wrapped haylage bales drops out of the bale clamp on the corner of the trailer, it twists only about an inch and a half, and with a static load on it, it doesnt twist at all.

heres the thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/118921-home-made-bale-trailer.html

and here a picture of how i beefed the deck and frame up from 2 ton to 8 ton farm duty: (or actually it was a 5 ton trailer untill i upgraded the tandem axles to 7/8 ton and cut wheel arches in the siderails, as got sick of blowing up tires and splitting hubs about twice a year)
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...d1208633312-home-made-bale-trailer-afb005-jpg

your 6k axles indicates a 5.5 ton trailer. Back in the day, we used cold rolled C channel of 60x40x3mm, which would be roughly 2 3/8 x 1 1/2 inch, 11 gauge. On equipment trailers where a higher point load is anticipated, we used 80x40x4 which is 3 1/4 x 1 1/2 inch, 9 gauge. Using those 1x2 inch tubes flat, makes them half as weak as upright.


Been around in the custom trailer business, so believe me: You are going to regret not spending the last 200 dollars on heavier crossbars (or a reinforcement structure if you dont want to grind these off again)

 

[jack707]

You need 5 " channel for the frame and 3 " chanel for the cross members to be strong.

 

[jenkinsph]

This was a concern of mine. I'm placing gussets under each crossmember to increase strength. The crossmembers are on 2' centers. I can add more crossmembers so they can be at 1' centers for the middle section.

I wanted to make the deck go over the tires. The cross members needed to be on top to go beyond the side rails and over the tires. I think I would have had fits trying to square all the crossmembers to the side rails. Just laying them on top is so simple to square away.

QUOTE]

Even if you double up the number of cross members you are still woefully under sized and improperly designed. This could easily turn into a safety issue for yourself and others. Have to call it the way I see it.

About the tire clearance and rubbing the cross members. Most trailer manufacturers will have the top of the tires spaced between the cross members. That eliminates the issue of rubbing and touching the cross members. Just part of a well designed trailer.

I have a 12k Big Tex trailer that I bought new in 2005 for $3000. It isn't perfect but has served me well enough. I have built larger and smaller trailers in the past and when shopping for this trailer I knew that buying one was cheaper than building my own.

 

[sldva00]

...

and here a picture of how i beefed the deck and frame up from 2 ton to 8 ton farm duty: (or actually it was a 5 ton trailer untill i upgraded the tandem axles to 7/8 ton and cut wheel arches in the siderails, as got sick of blowing up tires and splitting hubs about twice a year)
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...d1208633312-home-made-bale-trailer-afb005-jpg

your 6k axles indicates a 5.5 ton trailer. Back in the day, we used cold rolled C channel of 60x40x3mm, which would be roughly 2 3/8 x 1 1/2 inch, 11 gauge. On equipment trailers where a higher point load is anticipated, we used 80x40x4 which is 3 1/4 x 1 1/2 inch, 9 gauge. Using those 1x2 inch tubes flat, makes them half as weak as upright.


Been around in the custom trailer business, so believe me: You are going to regret not spending the last 200 dollars on heavier crossbars (or a reinforcement structure if you dont want to grind these off again)

Thanks for your input. I like this. I can definitely incorporate something similar to this into my trailer. I already have a piece of 2 1/2"x1/4" square tube that can be used length wise in the middle up against all the crossmembers. Also have 2" x 1/4" square tube to make the triangular shape to brace everything.

 

[Ryansweatt2004]

Out of curiosity, why did you build your trailer with two different sizes of tubing for the cross members? That's just going to pose a problem when I comes to laying the decking on.