Logsplitter 2.0

   / Logsplitter 2.0 #361  
Lo and behold in my email inbox this morning there was an email from HF with a Super Coupon for the 6.5 hp Predator engine for $99.99 (regularly $119.99)

Called the local store and they have the hemi version of the engine (item no. 60363) in stock, which is supposedly better than the non-hemi.

So I think the die is cast as far as the re-power goes.

Also called my steel supplier back on the pricing of the 1" x 3" bar stock - was $30 for 2' ... and $25 for 1' ... lol.

They will have 2' cut and ready tomorrow morning.

Now to go check that unloader valve ...

I had/have one of the old styles that after it hydrolocked, I tore apart just to see how it was made. It's actually not badly made at all. Of course the only thing one could not tell about is the quality of the steel by just looking at it. Steel quality in China has always been suspect but many have had some pretty good success with this engine. I bought a Robin/Subaru as a replacement. At any rate, always shut off the fuel petcock after use no matter what you end up with.
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#362  
I've split some that was more difficult and twisted, and maybe that's the norm?
No idea ... my only real experience with it is what I have now ... have read it can be difficult to split though.

It was dropped off by the tree service company the kid next door works for. Couple of huge trees they took down ... largest rounds are over 48" IIRC.

I only split it if it's down or needs to be taken down, like some of the other softer woods. Just enough to keep a good mix going.
I don't have any of it growing here on our property ... just wood that I was given that I can use for firewood. It's free, so as long as it will burn and produce heat, I'm happy to get it.
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#363  
I had/have one of the old styles that after it hydrolocked, I tore apart just to see how it was made. It's actually not badly made at all. Of course the only thing one could not tell about is the quality of the steel by just looking at it. Steel quality in China has always been suspect but many have had some pretty good success with this engine.
Good to know.

From what I've read, they appear to be pretty decent engines ... but like anything you can get a bad one here and there.

I bought a Robin/Subaru as a replacement.
I may tear the Briggs apart this winter and see if I can figure out what's going with it. Never hurts to have a spare.

At any rate, always shut off the fuel petcock after use no matter what you end up with.
Yeah ... I used to be pretty bad about that ... I've gotten a lot better about it over the last few years ... after having to work on equipment rather than just use it.
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#364  
I burn a lot of both sycamore and tulip poplar outside just to get rid of it...even though some of the logs are 18"-20" I don't split it...just burn it with the pine ... There is a noticeable difference between the two depending on how cured they are ...
In what way ?

I've always used poplar for kindling as it splits so easily and lights quick if dry...it does burn faster than sycamore if they are close to the same moisture content...
I've got quite a bit here that we took down to clear the old garden area. Might be big-tooth aspen/white poplar.

Normally, I wouldn't mess with it, because it rots so fast that anything that's fallen of it's own accord is usually so punked out that it's worthless as fuel. But I figured that since we felled these I'd go ahead and give it a try after letting them season.

I have a large amount of sycamore logs I've only spared from the fire because I may be buying an interest in a band mill...but am considering splitting a bunch of it strictly for tinder size cord wood...
Supposedly it lights pretty easily when well-seasoned.

The very few rounds I have run through a splitter was more like maple...it feels like cheating splitting poplar or (clear) red oak with a splitter...
Or ash ... :D

I know this thread is about a hydraulic splitter but there's something about splitting clear red oak etc. by hand...it is so much less tiresome etc...when the round absorbs all the energy of the blow (no feedback through the handle) and every blow is effective ...
Had to split a bunch of green shagbark hickory by hand a couple of years ago when the gas furnace went out ... it was like trying to split steel ... my right elbow is only now starting to recover and get to a point where I can beat on stuff with a hammer/sledge and have no pain.

This is a great thread...I am getting ready to order hoses and fittings for the splitter/lift I built last year...some may remember the issue I had trying to get a two spool valve to work off a dedicated Ditch Witch auxiliary circuit...the need for wood elapsed and I never really got around to completing the project...will resurrect or start a new thread...it is also my 2.0 version...
Post a link to it here if ya think about it ... :thumbsup:
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#365  
Added a thinner knife edge on the 4-way wedge yesterday to see if that helps getting it to piece the rounds a little better.

Used a piece of 5/16" plate about 1 1/2" wide ... which leaves an opening of just under 23 1/2" inches between the 4-way and the push block:

IMG_0589.jpg

IMG_0585.jpg

IMG_0587.jpg
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#366  
Also got the attachment bracket for the base end of the hydraulic cylinder for the log lift cut out and drilled. Made it @ 45 degrees, thinking that there would more weld length to secure it to the beam.

Still need to put some bevels on it before I weld it on:

IMG_0590.jpg

This will relocate the base end attachment point down, and in, approximately 3 1/2 inches, and will give the log lift cylinder an initial angle of better than 20 degrees.

The bracket for the rod of the cylinder is also being located a little lower and further out on the log lift.
 
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   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#367  
FYI, I have a splitter with a 5" cyl and 7hp Briggs and 13 gpm pump. It's a good match powerwise: never stalls though it does get on the governor some. Deadly slow for my taste but strong.
Jim
It took a while for this to really sink in ...

Assuming a 2500 max psi system and a 5" cylinder, you would be generating 49,087 lbs of force ... whereas with my 4" cylinder I'd only be generating 31,416 lbs of force.

Quite a difference ... your 7 hp Briggs probably doesn't have to work near as hard, given the difference in cylinder sizes.

I'm kinda kicking myself for jumping so quickly on that 6.5 HP Predator engine ... even though it was a good price, the day after I picked it up and installed it, I got 20% and 25% off coupons for Harbor Freight on my phone.

I could have gotten the 8 hp Predator for about $180 ... :(

Not quite double what the 6.5 cost, but still a pretty good deal ...

Would have had to change out the one half of the Lovejoy coupling ($3) and and drill a couple more holes for the engine mount (and the latter might have involved having to install a new mounting plate)

I'm sure there will be more opportunities to pick up a larger engine at a right price ... so I can still do it ... if I find that this engine won't cut it.
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0 #368  
One thing about the Predator engines is...most high performance Honda parts will fit them...
By just changing the carb. jets and the muffler (header) you can increase the HP...other mods will increase it even more...some guys have dyno tested the hemi-6.5 model at twice and three time the stated 6.5 HP...after the modifications...

FWIW...some good info on mods of all types for the Predators can be found here:

Honda / Clone / Predator
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0 #369  
It took a while for this to really sink in ...

Assuming a 2500 max psi system and a 5" cylinder, you would be generating 49,087 lbs of force ... whereas with my 4" cylinder I'd only be generating 31,416 lbs of force.

Quite a difference ... your 7 hp Briggs probably doesn't have to work near as hard, given the difference in cylinder sizes.

Not really true.

Diameter of the cylinder, and tonnage it generates, has little to do with the load the motor sees.

You size the motor to the pump. The motor dont care what size cylinder there is, or how much force the cylinder can generate. What puts load on the motor is PSI.

IF you have both a 4" cylinder and a 5" cylinder.....and pump set at 2500 psi, the motor is gonna see the exact same load when generating max pressure.....no more. The difference is .....for that same 25000 PSI, the 5" cylinder can generate more power....but is proportionally slower as well.

Looking forward to seeing how the revisions to the lift and wedge work out. Keep us posted
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0 #370  
I'm kinda kicking myself for jumping so quickly on that 6.5 HP Predator engine ... even though it was a good price, the day after I picked it up and installed it, I got 20% and 25% off coupons for Harbor Freight on my phone.

I could have gotten the 8 hp Predator for about $180 ... :(

Not quite double what the 6.5 cost, but still a pretty good deal ...
Don't feel too bad over it. Most of the HF coupons exclude Predator anyway.
 

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