Best choice for engine heater CK 30 (block, heater hose, magnetic?)

PILOON · Sep 15, 2016

Rather than press fit I'd suspect that freezing the bushing might accomplish the same result without any chance of damage.
Might be worth a try.

jabelding · Sep 15, 2016

Takes a heavy press fit to hold in engine, freezing would not be enough. The bushing is tapered and designed to be pounded into the block the same as any freeze plug.

DOCatRU · Sep 15, 2016

Good to know. Should I assume there is enough space in the coolant channel inside the block so that the bushing will not contact the cylinder wall before the collar stops the forward motion?

PILOON · Sep 16, 2016

jabelding said:
Takes a heavy press fit to hold in engine, freezing would not be enough. The bushing is tapered and designed to be pounded into the block the same as any freeze plug.

Was unaware they were tapered so pounding should work just fine.
I'd however suggest using a brass faced hammer to prevent damage to threads.
A sealant/lubricant and a few moderate blows should do the trick.

powerscol · Sep 16, 2016

There are numerous videos on how to install and remove freeze plugs out there. Perhaps they might help

jabelding · Sep 16, 2016

DOCatRU said:
Good to know. Should I assume there is enough space in the coolant channel inside the block so that the bushing will not contact the cylinder wall before the collar stops the forward motion?

One of the measurements I will take as I do the install, want to make sure there is plenty of clearance.

ritcheyvs · Sep 16, 2016

You do want to be sure there is good clearance between the heater and the cylinders. The cylinder wall can be quite close to a freeze plug, depending on plug location. You may have seen "dog leg" heater elements, designed to improve clearance. It looks like your bushing should provide plenty of clearance but it's always worth checking.

comancheflight · Sep 16, 2016

The link to the post I gave previously gives some measurements I took but was more for the removal of the plug so as to not damage the cylinder wall. The sleeve just use a socket and hammer to seat it. You can tell by the sound when it is seated. I bought the Kioti block heater when they came out with it last spring. $68 plus freight. My post gave details with pictures...

jabelding · Sep 18, 2016

I finally got a chance to install the bushing and heater today it went pretty smooth. I removed both the loader frame and the muffler to have room to work. I used a punch to push in the side of the freeze plug towards the operator station. Once the antifreeze stopped flowing out I grabbed the lip of the plug with a pare of vice grips and pulled it out, just had to work it back and fourth gently and it popped right out.

Once it was out I blew a bit of air in the radiator to push out more coolant. once the coolant finally stopped completely I buffed the inside of the hole with a piece of scotch brite to clean out the old sealant and remove any paint around the edge. Once the hole was clean I measured the depth of where they stopped machining the hole it was back some from the cylinder liner. The depth was about 17.5 mm, the depth of the taper on the bushing was well under that.

I applied red loctite to the bushing and the hole then used a fitting stack I had to drive the bushing in with a hammer. I drove it until the bushing was against the block. It is a very tight fit and have no worries about the bushing ever coming out. It is much tighter that the freeze plug ever was.

After the bushing install I installed the heater then filled the coolant back up then ran the tractor and looked for leaks all was good so I put everything back together.