2 WIRE WELL PUMP PROBLEMS

[Valveman]

any takes on good well pump brands? looking at goulds, sta- rite and flotec to name a few.

Grundfos is my favorite. Goulds GS or LS are good but not the CS. FloTec, Sta-Rite, Myers, and several others are all made by Pentair.

 

[Brimfield]

How about the Gould HS? Thanks for all the info by the way.

 

[Valveman]

How about the Gould HS? Thanks for all the info by the way.

I don't know of and HS. An HSC is a multistage booster not a submersible.

 

[Brimfield]

I talked to the supply house and they said the HS is the same unit as the GS all the internal parts are the same, the GS is stainless housing and the HS is Composite. So I'll take the chance on the GS. They both use Noryl plastic impellers, I have molded with Noryl and it is tough stuff.

 

[Valveman]

I talked to the supply house and they said the HS is the same unit as the GS all the internal parts are the same, the GS is stainless housing and the HS is Composite. So I'll take the chance on the GS. They both use Noryl plastic impellers, I have molded with Noryl and it is tough stuff.

The CS is the crimped on end bells they are having problems with. Threaded end bells are the way to go.

 

[Brimfield]

Thanks, I'll pay the extra $160 so I won't be back at it.

 

[Pumpmd]

Well (no pun intended) the old switch was sticking with the contacts made at the end of it's life. I was worried that this might be a motor overload issue The pump still works, we try to go easy on it and space out water usage. I guess it is time to call our local Plumbing supply and price a pump. Not sure what we have for a pump. I even thought of getting a jet pump but I don't think that would save enough money to make it worth the trouble. Things hit when funds are low

Overload tripping on a 2-wire motor while running the pump Continuous or by cycling(cycling can take it longer to kick the overload because it shuts off before it can build "high amps" long enough to kick the overload depending on your tank size) is caused by bearings in the pump/motor "slipping". It got wear by downthrust load from continuous duty.
Longer you run it Continuous, the closer you are to death by bearings and with the windings in the motor.


For other people that read this: Keep your old pump/motor and I will walk you through the process on taking your pump/motor apart so you can see the downthrust load wear for yourself.

For a 3-wire pump, it's your "run" relay that's not working properly because it's putting high amps on the "running windings" long enough to kick the overload. This acts just like bearings going out and why alot people pull the pump not knowing any better but it was something simple all along and very cheap to fix your problem.

You can't change the biac switch (Franklin Motors)out down the well and why people like 3-wire pumps over 2-wire pumps.

 

[Pettrix]

What about Goulds?

They are manufactured and assembled in the USA. They use stainless parts. They use Noryl impellers

http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BRGSBRG-R1.pdf

 

[TheGoose]

I've been using the CS pumps all year with no problems. I've only heard of a few cases where they have given problems. Cary have you personally seen any failures? I used to use the Goulds LS (Brass head) but they discontinued it in favor of the CS series. The GS is Goulds top of the line pump.

 

[Pettrix]

I've been using the CS pumps all year with no problems. I've only heard of a few cases where they have given problems. Cary have you personally seen any failures? I used to use the Goulds LS (Brass head) but they discontinued it in favor of the CS series. The GS is Goulds top of the line pump.

I have the Goulds GS (13 GS 30) pump. It's the 3HP version

It's American made and American assembled.