I have been having well issues for a week or so. I have the single phase 230 v 2 wire well pump. Last week it was not pumping when the switch came on for demand, pressure gauge was shot so I had no idea at what psi only way to tell was the switch kicking on and off but I had the full voltage going to the pump . The switch looked beat up so I replaced it along with a new gauge. The new switch is a 40 psi/60 psi and it worked like a charm for a week. Now again the pump is not kicking on when the switch calls for it, full voltage but it only draws 5.3 amps on either of the two legs. It normally ran around 6.5 amps running and never had a spike in amps. I ran an ohm test and the motor is fine, no grounding out. I checked the well tank pressure and that was ok. When the pump is working we have normal water pressure to shower run a washer and dishwasher at once. Is there any other checks I missed? The wires coming in to the hose look ok, no rodent chewed up wires.
2 WIRE WELL PUMP PROBLEMS
- Thread starter Brimfield
- Start date
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fitter1
Silver Member
Low water level?
Valveman
Platinum Member
If it is pulling 5.3 amps then the pump is running. If 6.4 amps are max then 5.3 amps means the flow from the pump is restricted. I think a dry well or pumping air would make the amps drop to 3.5 or so. My guess is a bad check valve. They tend to come loose and the poppet will stick, restricting the flow. This also happens if you screw the pipe in too far on the check valve. The pipe can actually hold the check valve closed.
I guess I need to pull the pump and check it out. My fear is that the start capacitor in the pump is bad. Right now it is working again, it's almost like it does not like running under a load or after heavy use . I can shut the breaker and wait 15 min. and then it runs. I will check the valve out when it's out. I know nothing about the pump, no paper work so I can only guess what size it is.
Valveman
Platinum Member
There probably isn't a start cap in that 2 wire motor. Most use a biac switch instead of a capacitor. When the water stops coming out is it still drawing 5.3 amps? If it is still drawing amps then the pump is still running, and you are just not getting any water for some reason. If the amps go to zero and the pressure switch points are still made, the overload in the motor is tripping. You don't have to turn the power off and back on to get the pump to start, the overload will automatically reset in a short period of time and the pump will start. But a tripping overload is not a good thing. It will only reset a few times. Then the motor will not come back on.
You said the pressure switch looked bad, which is a sign of the pump cycling too much. Once you have cycled the pump a certain number of times the overload starts tripping. Once the overload trips a few times the motor will no longer function, and you will need a new one. It is tripping after heavy use because every time it cycles on/off it is one step closer to death.
Well (no pun intended) the old switch was sticking with the contacts made at the end of it's life. I was worried that this might be a motor overload issue The pump still works, we try to go easy on it and space out water usage. I guess it is time to call our local Plumbing supply and price a pump. Not sure what we have for a pump. I even thought of getting a jet pump but I don't think that would save enough money to make it worth the trouble. Things hit when funds are low
Valveman
Platinum Member
I hear this all the time. Some people tell me they "just keep the faucet cracked open, letting out only a little water, so it doesn't hurt the pump". I guess that is just another one of those counter-intuitive things about pumps. Spreading out the water usage or just running the faucet partial open is the worst thing for pumps. You need to use enough water to keep the pump from cycling off, not just a small amount. Running just a partial of what the pump can produce is what causes the pump to cycle on and off. Cycling on and off is then what causes the points in the presure switch to arc out, and ultimately leads to the destruction of the pump/motor.
davx
New member
When my start cap fried it didn't run at all. Pulled the cover and just saw the capacitor "sweating". Probably not the cap if it's starting.
Valveman
Platinum Member
Grundfos is my favorite. Goulds GS or LS are good but not the CS. FloTec, Sta-Rite, Myers, and several others are all made by Pentair.
Valveman
Platinum Member
I don't know of and HS. An HSC is a multistage booster not a submersible.
I talked to the supply house and they said the HS is the same unit as the GS all the internal parts are the same, the GS is stainless housing and the HS is Composite. So I'll take the chance on the GS. They both use Noryl plastic impellers, I have molded with Noryl and it is tough stuff.
Valveman
Platinum Member
The CS is the crimped on end bells they are having problems with. Threaded end bells are the way to go.
Pumpmd
New member
Overload tripping on a 2-wire motor while running the pump Continuous or by cycling(cycling can take it longer to kick the overload because it shuts off before it can build "high amps" long enough to kick the overload depending on your tank size) is caused by bearings in the pump/motor "slipping". It got wear by downthrust load from continuous duty.
Longer you run it Continuous, the closer you are to death by bearings and with the windings in the motor.
For other people that read this: Keep your old pump/motor and I will walk you through the process on taking your pump/motor apart so you can see the downthrust load wear for yourself.
For a 3-wire pump, it's your "run" relay that's not working properly because it's putting high amps on the "running windings" long enough to kick the overload. This acts just like bearings going out and why alot people pull the pump not knowing any better but it was something simple all along and very cheap to fix your problem.
You can't change the biac switch (Franklin Motors)out down the well and why people like 3-wire pumps over 2-wire pumps.
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Pettrix
Platinum Member
What about Goulds?
They are manufactured and assembled in the USA. They use stainless parts. They use Noryl impellers
http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BRGSBRG-R1.pdf
They are manufactured and assembled in the USA. They use stainless parts. They use Noryl impellers
http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BRGSBRG-R1.pdf
I've been using the CS pumps all year with no problems. I've only heard of a few cases where they have given problems. Cary have you personally seen any failures? I used to use the Goulds LS (Brass head) but they discontinued it in favor of the CS series. The GS is Goulds top of the line pump.
Pettrix
Platinum Member
I have the Goulds GS (13 GS 30) pump. It's the 3HP version
It's American made and American assembled.
