New 2016 Kubota BX1870 w/MMM & FEL- first impressions and any problems....

[bp fick]

Well,well,well.Found some problems w/new tractor. Last week before plowing first time,I started it up and let it warm up a little while I shoveled around stuff I didn't want to hit.I went to get on tractor and noticed a couple puddles of coolant on ground...popped hood and saw it was coming from where radiator hose goes into top of engine. I took a 10mm socket and tightened it up quite a bit.Didn't look like it was weeping anymore. I went to plow yesterday and guess what-still leaking coolant,but not as much. I checked it out again this morning when cold and not running-was able to tighten the top clamp a little bit again,and I got a few turns tighter on the lower hose clamp. I also checked the front axle oil,as a few people have mentioned that they tend to be a bit on the low side when new.That oil checked out fine,but when I checked the transmission fluid (stick by PTO),I pulled it out and it was dry. Stuck it in again,NOTHING showed on stick(transmission cold).I am beyond p*ssed right now.I also guess I need to double check the wheel bolts,as 2 of the rear ones are put in backwards. Does the transmission oil need to be checked warm or cold? The owners manual didn't specify-does tractor need to be running or turned off to check transmission oil level?

The level on the front axle. Check that axle again at 10 hours and again at 20 hours. It takes that long to displace the air pockets. It's simply the nature of the beast. When you change out the front axle, consider a full synthetic 80W-90 type which will provide superior protection and isn't as likely to run past the seals. Kubota specs either one, but it's just easier in factory assemble to run a single fluid gun of SUDT and fill everything.

On the hydro being "off the stick" this is no big deal. Add a loader and the fluid will be used to fill those lines and cylinders. The amount needed to top off again will surprising little. It may not even be an entire quart, so easy does it. A pint at a time and re-check.

Have had two BX's and think they're about the handiest things since they invented pockets on shirts.

 

[JWR]

Being brand new, you really should get any coolant leaks and fluid deficiencies corrected by the dealer. That is his responsibility and having him do it protects you in case of problems. It should never have gotten out of his shop that way in the first place. As one said before, Do not go reversing wheel lugs/nuts. Kubota typically has 2 set up as studs with nuts and the rest being lug bolts. Ballast is not anywhere near the big deal it is made out to be by some folks. Will never matter unless you have very heavy materiel in the bucket. I find the (expensive but great) bagger for my BX2200 to be a good "ballast" for the rear. Someone worried over 'enormous strain on the front axle.' Never mind that. You cannot lift anything with that loader anywhere near heavy enough to bring concern about the front axle. Tires, well pay attention. Those tiny little things on the front will need extra air if/when you put max load in the FEL. I agree with the guy who said he is not attracted to carrying some useless dead weight around for ballast. There are so many useful things to put back there like the bagger, a box blade, a receiver hitch (to which you can easily add weights of all sorts), etc. Keep in mind your MMM is raised only indirectly by the 3pt lift arm hydraulics. So anything you put back there mounted on the 3pt (not including the bagger) has to run up and down when the deck does. And finally, it sounds like you have not been used to mowing grass with a FEL on the mower. You will soon learn that more accidental damage occurs with a small tractor running around with a FEL than all other situations combined. You will learn caution or to remove the FEL when not in use..

 

[dieselbob69]

A little update. I warmed the tractor up yesterday and lowered loader,rolled back bucket,and lowered 3 pt hitch. I waited a few minutes,then checked the tranny fluid. Still nothing on dipstick. It looks like I have the coolant leak stopped, but it is way overfilled in the coolant bottle-way above the top line. I stopped by dealer yesterday and told the salesman my concerns about the low tranny fluid and the overfilled coolant.He apologized about the coolant and told me same thing you guys have said about the tranny fluid-air is being worked out and don't be concerned about it-if it was too low tractor wouldn't move.I asked if he'd be able to give me a couple quarts of the Super UDT2 fluid-he walked to parts dept and grabbed a gallon and again apologized for the overfilled coolant. Now I need to top it off a little at a time. I also got a price on the BX brush guard and a Land Pride 60" back blade-those will be first purchases I think I'll make.

 

[dieselbob69]

Finally got around to topping the transmisssion fluid.It ended up taking 1-1/2 quarts this time,at 4.6 hrs,to get it over 1/2 way up hash marks on the dipstick. Discovered it was still leaking coolant. So I ended up sliding engine cover off and tightening up the clamp on the bottom outlet of the radiator. I also discovered that the left loader cylinder had oil weeping out the fitting it looks like,the entire outside bottom of the cylinder is coated. The threads on the fitting have the white teflon tape on them,so I don't know what the issue is. I think I may take the top part of the ROPS bar off and take it to local welding and fab shop to see if they can take about 6-8" off of it and re-weld it,that way I can leave it in up position all the time and be able to pull into garage without folding it down.

 

[JWR]

I am NOT impressed with the 3rd hand info you have given us regarding your dealer. So much so that, if I were you, I would take the thing back to him, tell him to prep it decently for delivery and then return it. (Or else find a better dealer...) Fluid running out of a cylinder, coolant leaking, very questionable conclusions regarding hydraulic fluid levels, etc. And NO, 1400 to 1500 rpm is NOT normal idle. This ain't right.

Back home, sawing off the ROPS on BX1870 to get in a garage ? Is your garage door only 5ft high ? What is that about ?

 

[Jeff F.]

JWR what does your BX idle at? My BX idles at 1300-1400 rams.

 

[JWR]

JWR what does your BX idle at? My BX idles at 1300-1400 rams.

I don't have a tach and I do not really know. I apologize on the idle rpm comment to dieselbob69. The rest I'd still say. --- The truth is there is no tach on the BX2200 and none of the manual or website docs say what idle rpm should be. My shot from the hip comment on idle rpm was because it seemed high. Maybe not. I am more accustomed to a Perkins diesel where the top end is around 2200 rpm. The BX 3cyl rated rpm is 3200. I see in an Orange Tractor forum that a BX2360 owner says: The BX2360 manual says idle should be 1350-1450rpm. Also there have been several threads on Kubota idle rpm such as one at http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/314837-engine-idle-rpm.html

 

[dieselbob69]

I'm guessing it's that high of an idle for a smaller engine w/ the amount of hydraulics that it needs to push fluid through. I'd hate to see how slow the loader would be w/ a lower idle. My Gr2100 I used to have didn't seem to idle that high,and it's basically the same engine,but it didn't have a tach.I really haven't researched it any more,maybe I'll ask Kubota directly. As far as the the ROPS is concerned,my garage doors are the standard height-so w/ my ROPS fully upright,it is about 1" too high to go into my garage( as I found out the first day I owned-the trim on garage door top now has a nice crease in it).I'm not the first one this has happened to,as I saw a few other people have the same problem.The folding ROPS is higher than the old one piece ROPS on the earlier BX tractors-maybe I'll see if one of the older ones can bolt on instead.I really don't feel like folding/unfolding the ROPS each time I use tractor....if I don't re-do mine or find a shorter one,i'll just leave it folded down.

 

[JWR]

OK, understand. My BX2200 is not a folding ROPS and clears the 8' automotive garage door by a bunch. Did not know the newer folding ones are higher. You might have 7' high doors too. Note: My MF2660 is a low-profile 2011 model farm tractor and the folding ROPS on it barely clears the 9' garage door on the red garage you see in the avatar picture on my posts. I have had a collision or two with it but learned to move very slowly on entry and exit and to push the door to full height. Like every building I ever built, I wish it had been built with larger doors and bigger floorplan.

 

[dieselbob69]

The Kubota dealer near where I work had a used BX1860 out front(I noticed the non-folding ROPS). I finally had a chance to stop and check it out. The measurements for mounting are identical to a BX 2370 that was next to it. The model # of the ROPS from the 60 series is SFBX-23(it lists all the BX models it is for on the tag). Now to see if I can find one......