Chain saw sharpening advice sought

[jb1390]

Yep. After hitting a foreign object while sawing the same end result happens whether the chain was sharpened with a machine or by hand. A properly filed chain cuts like new as well. I would imagine the time it takes to sharpen a long chain versus a short chain would be proportional regardless of tool used.

I would suspect it's more difficult to get a consistent tooth length and angle, and rake depth using a file compared to a jig on a decent sharpener. The minor discrepancies will be less of a concern on a shorter chain, and also less of a concern if it's just a touch-up sharpening.

Before I bought & modified my current sharpener, I used a few of the cheaper sharpeners from Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply.....they were ok for the smaller chains but didn't work at all for the big stuff.

 

[ovrszd]

I would suspect it's more difficult to get a consistent tooth length and angle, and rake depth using a file compared to a jig on a decent sharpener. The minor discrepancies will be less of a concern on a shorter chain, and also less of a concern if it's just a touch-up sharpening.

Before I bought & modified my current sharpener, I used a few of the cheaper sharpeners from Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply.....they were ok for the smaller chains but didn't work at all for the big stuff.

Yep, I would imagine that's true. Takes some practice with a file to get a saw to cut uniformly. But as with anything, practice makes perfect!!!!!

 

[adventure bob]

One of the most important things I have found is consistency. With practice you can get good pretty quick, whether you use a guided file or do it by hand. The issue I have found with powered sharpeners like the harbor freight are that the chain holder isn't that sturdy or precise so you get inconsistent angles and depths. The test of how good you are is the chips that come off the chain when you run it. Nothing else matters. I have heard arguments about angle, technique, and a bunch of other things that are "internet important." I have played with angles and techniques but have settled on an Oregon manual guided bar mount that does pretty good. I get chips off ponderosa pine that look like I was using a plane.

 

[ovrszd]

One of the most important things I have found is consistency. With practice you can get good pretty quick, whether you use a guided file or do it by hand. The issue I have found with powered sharpeners like the harbor freight are that the chain holder isn't that sturdy or precise so you get inconsistent angles and depths. The test of how good you are is the chips that come off the chain when you run it. Nothing else matters. I have heard arguments about angle, technique, and a bunch of other things that are "internet important." I have played with angles and techniques but have settled on an Oregon manual guided bar mount that does pretty good. I get chips off ponderosa pine that look like I was using a plane.

Yep. Taught my Sons to watch the chips to know how sharp the chain is. They'll also guide you to adjusting the rakers.

 

[beowulf]

You can ask ten guys this question and you'll get 15 different answers.

JIm, you were so very right.

I have received a lot of good advice here - and appreciate the reasoning you have all also provided for the choices each of you would make. Each time I think I have it figured out there will be another post advocating a different way to go.

Given the number of used chains I already have (since I typically just replaced the chains rather than sharpening them) I doubt I will ever need to buy a new chain as I can sharpen and resharpen the 20 I have. I estimate I may only use my chainsaw less than five or six hours of actual cutting a year now - not nearly as much as in years past. And finally, after 30 years in the mountains, my age and grand kids (six hours away in town), may pull us to be in town within 2-3 years. It is really hard to wrap my head around not having a tractor, and living near people, but having the wife settled near family as I get older makes sense.

Well, anyway, I almost pulled the trigger on the Trimline, but given the limited hours of sawing I see in my future, I think I will go with the Pfed CS-x hand filer. It has great reviews and I think will work out for me in the circumstances. If I was going to be using the saw a lot and would need to sharpen a lot of chains I would have gone with the Trimline.

Now, I just have to order that before someone else posts something and changes my mind.

 

[dickfoster]

I too use a bar mounted guide but have recently started sharpening freehand. I think I get better results with the guide but will eventually expect to get as good of a result freehanding given enough practice.

 

[dodge man]

I bought a electric sharpner that plugs into a cigarette lighter socket. I have one of those on my tractor so I thought it would be handy in the field, but most of the time I just use it in the garage hooked up to a car battery. Its basically just the dremell style sharpner and does a good job, but most of the time I just use a hand file. It just takes a little practice and 5 minutes of time.

 

[ericm979]

No one has linked to this device- been around for years and does a great job! I went from never doing this to very good results in about 10'! Plus it goes into the woods without power and takes regular files. Cheaper than most too.
Granberg Bar-Mount Chainsaw Sharpener, Model# G-16B | Sharpeners Grinders| Northern Tool + Equipment

I've never been able to get one of those to work right. I do it by hand with just a file. I take down the rakers with a small flat file. I can't tell a difference between my chains and a new one so it must be good enough. I worked on a tree thinning crew for a couple seasons so I've sharpened a lot of chains.

 

[newbury]

If you are getting 20" and up chains sharpened WELL for $5 it's worth it.
As I posted back in 2013 I use 3 sharpening methods for a variety of chains.

That's real nice - here it's about $15 for the small chains. I never asked about the regular ones (26 to 34).

I run chains from 16" to 42", but mostly 28" plus. My saws are a 35cc Efco, Stihl 021, JD CS62, Stihl 660, Stihl 660, Stihl 088. I bought a Northern Tool grinder for about $80 years ago, I also use a Grandberg File n Joint. I mainly did some chain saw milling (CSM). My routine is to hand sharpen, or touch up 3 times, then use the Grandberg, repeat (hand 3 Grandberg 1) for 2 more "Grandbergs", then take them to the grinder. The hand sharepning and Grandberg are normally done on the saw. If for some reason a chain gets "rocked" it goes to the grinder.

The Grandberg helps confirm the angle and the grinder makes it even more accurate.

When sharpening also pay attention to the rakers.

Hand sharpening and using the Grandberg are usually done on the saw. I build up a "stash" of chains before going to the grinder, so I end up doing them for about an hour or so. But I have not done them in a few years.

I used to do a lot of CSM and would have to "Grandberg" a chain or two every tree.

And if you are planning on doing CSM make sure your filing approach can do a 0 degree angle.

 

[turnkey4099]

A couple things, one, depth gauges aka rakers are easy. You need to lay a straight edge across the top of each set of two cutters and see how far below that the raker between them is. .025" is what you want. A caliper works for to measure, but after a few times doing it, it's easy enough to eyeball. A Carlton File-o-plate is the best for determining where each raker needs to be, but they're out of production.


Baileys has em.

Both Oregon and Stihl among others make file guides for the rakers. The stihl one even comes with hooks to clean out the bar groves. Ask the dealer, can't cost more than a buck or two.