Box Scraper Box scraper for hard pack dirt/gravel road

   / Box scraper for hard pack dirt/gravel road #51  
I've been thinking of making skids for my BB to make it behave more like an LP. We're building a house and really don't have the budget right now for more implements. Anyone tried that?

There is one on YouTube,, so it has been done
 
   / Box scraper for hard pack dirt/gravel road #52  
I'm sure a really heavy unit wont blink at washboard with any blades. But a more economy unit is likely to need all the advantages it can get. At an angle only part of the blade at any given time will be hitting the tops of the washboard. That will put more pressure on that one specific hard part, where a flat blade would distribute that weight & pressure over the whole blade. It would significantly increase the chances of cutting better & make it less likely to jump & hop. Not fool proof, but any advantage is usually a good one.

I understand the theory behind having the blades angled. Most of these lpgs have very little angle about 10 to 12 degrees, not going to make much difference in real use.

With straight blades you can shorten the top link and force the front blade lower to make a uniform depth cut across the entire blade. With angled blades the leading edge will cut aggressively while the trailing edge would be higher causing an uneven cut.

One advantage of angled blades is they will usually leave the dirt or gravel on the trailing edge with very little left on the leading edge side. Much easier to make successive passes with a very smooth appearance compared to a straight blade which leaves a small trail of material on both sides.
 
   / Box scraper for hard pack dirt/gravel road #53  
I understand the theory behind having the blades angled.
Most of these lpgs have very little angle about 10 to 12 degrees,
not going to make much difference in real use.

This is ANOTHER reason I DIY built mine,, my blade is angled 20 degrees.

Angling more than 10-15 degrees requires lengthening the side runners, that adds cost, and weight.
 
   / Box scraper for hard pack dirt/gravel road #54  
I understand the theory behind having the blades angled. Most of these lpgs have very little angle about 10 to 12 degrees, not going to make much difference in real use.

With straight blades you can shorten the top link and force the front blade lower to make a uniform depth cut across the entire blade. With angled blades the leading edge will cut aggressively while the trailing edge would be higher causing an uneven cut.

One advantage of angled blades is they will usually leave the dirt or gravel on the trailing edge with very little left on the leading edge side. Much easier to make successive passes with a very smooth appearance compared to a straight blade which leaves a small trail of material on both sides.

The outside to outside (most narrow wheel adjustment) measurement of my Ford 1920 wheels is approximately 60"
I have an 84" King Kutter back blade.
My blade is adjustable from side to side, so I set it to one side - maximum extension..... for driveway grading.
I then angle the blade to the most extreme, or second most extreme, angle setting.
Now I have a blade that extends way beyond the gravel surface of my driveway.
The leading edge of my blade, at the selected angle, is about 18" beyond my wheel track.
It is not fast, but I do find that I can get exactly the grade, and crown that I want, though it takes more than a few passes.
Long ago (now very old) Civil Engineer,.....I am fussy!
An important point for me, is that I do not want my driveway class A gravel migrating to the ditches.
I am able pull it back from the edge, even if I do get a bit of dirt, or a few leaves mixed in.
Class A gravel is expensive! I try not to loose ANY!
I have been using this method for 40+ years.
I do have a box blade, but that is for moving/pulling material.
A land plane ..... is not something I would want! Ever seen anything that looks like a land plane on a road construction job?
A motor grader is the perfect tool for the job, but much too big for a homeowner.
Using a tractor for grading is not optimal, due to the short wheelbase. Front wheels go into a slight dip, blade comes up, front wheels go up a slight bump, blade drops down. I keep my right hand on the 3pt lift control at all times, and anticipate variations.
There are a few old Huber Maintainers (small - belly blade, tractor/graders) still around. They are old (with Continental/Hercules/Perkins engines), and can often be bought at less than $10,000. They are THE PERFECT roadway/long driveway maintenance machine.
BTW: My wife and I never drive in the same driveway track!
A local real estate agent told me my driveway is the best (natural surface) driveway she has ever seen.
 
   / Box scraper for hard pack dirt/gravel road #55  
Fried1765, I think I read your entire post.
Basically, what you say is;
You use a rear 3PT hitch blade that can be angled,, it takes LOTS of passes.
then,
NOTHING else but a $300,000 motor grader is any good,
because you have never seen it used on a construction site.
(I can get a used one with only 4,000 hours for only $195,000)

I guess there is no middle ground for other attachments to be successful?

My landplane has the actual blades out of the $300,000 CAT 140H motor grader,,
I just am using a slightly lower cost method of getting them over my driveway.
I purchased my blades at the local CAT dealer,, I even use CAT bolts to hold the CAT blades.

BoltsA_zpsxxfvnad8.jpg


I think, for my $300 investment, I am getting pretty close to $300,000 machine equivalent results on my driveway.
I can hardly ever imagine needing more than 2 passes to get these results.
 
   / Box scraper for hard pack dirt/gravel road #56  
Fried1765, I think I read your entire post.
Basically, what you say is;
You use a rear 3PT hitch blade that can be angled,, it takes LOTS of passes.
then,
NOTHING else but a $300,000 motor grader is any good,
because you have never seen it used on a construction site.
(I can get a used one with only 4,000 hours for only $195,000)

I guess there is no middle ground for other attachments to be successful?

My landplane has the actual blades out of the $300,000 CAT 140H motor grader,,
I just am using a slightly lower cost method of getting them over my driveway.
I purchased my blades at the local CAT dealer,, I even use CAT bolts to hold the CAT blades.

BoltsA_zpsxxfvnad8.jpg


I think, for my $300 investment, I am getting pretty close to $300,000 machine equivalent results on my driveway.
I can hardly ever imagine needing more than 2 passes to get these results.

NOPE!
I ABSOLUTELY DID NOT say that!
Maybe another reading would help???
 
   / Box scraper for hard pack dirt/gravel road #57  
The local CL usually has 2-3 road graders for under $10,000. About once a month I see one for $3-5,000. Usually they are running, mechanical-not hydraulic, and need tires.

About once a month or two, a Huber is posted. Same price range.

Bruce
 
   / Box scraper for hard pack dirt/gravel road #59  
Any of these belly blades certainly would useful.
They all suffer from the same short tractor wheelbase problem though.
If you look at photos of the "Huber Maintainer", you will see that it has a much longer than standard tractor wheelbase.
For a grader, wheelbase length is a VERY significant issue!
 
   / Box scraper for hard pack dirt/gravel road #60  
I don't think shorter length is too much of a factor for driveways and gravel roads.

Bruce
 
 

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