NX5510 radio plug?

[Threepoint]

Good plan!

After you get the connector but before pulling the roof, remove the blank cover plate in the headliner and pull the factory harness out far enough to double-check compatibility. Also, from the photo, it looks like the radio-side of the connector has more input-leads than will be used by the factory harness.

When hooking up, you can check which wires in the factory harness go to which speaker by touching them to the terminals of a 9v battery and listening for the diaphragm to "thump". Polarity to the speakers doesn't matter unless you want to be sure the speakers are in phase (of dubious importance in that tractor cab, IMO!). If that matters to you, you'll need to note the direction the diaphragm moves as you touch the wires, then make sure both move in the same way with the polarity you've chosen. I think you may have to have the roof off to see that, as I didn't see an easy way to remove the speaker grills from inside the cab.

Be sure to let us know if that's the right connector, for the benefit of future NX owners. :thumbsup:

 

[mudplugger]

This is what you need.
Celsus ICE - car audio accessories
This is for those in Europe - but it is available from Amazon... and in the US - search for "Celsus AIS2144"

Straight plug and play for me - a digital audio player/radio with ISO connections.
No wiring, needed, just plugged radio into the ISO connectors and then the main connector into the loom, added the antenna connection, and it worked fine.
It's lightweight radio unit so was able to do whole fitting in about an hour, no roof lift.
Hardest bit was accurately cutting the hard plastic cover to fit radio into that, because the stock opening behind the cover plate was just a bit too big.

Isuzu and Honda also used these connectors apparently.

 

[DieselBound]

mudplugger, that connector appears to be identical to the one Threepoint noted.:thumbsup:

 

[mudplugger]

Yes it is.
The Celsus version had the ISO connections too - and correctly pre-wired, so even less messing about.

 

[mudplugger]

Yes it is.
The Celsus version had the ISO connections too - and correctly pre-wired, so even less messing about.

This is what you are connecting to (tractor wiring end)

 

[DieselBound]

Don't think that I'd run across any pictures of the stock wiring like that. Great contribution!

 

[mudplugger]

It was a set of photos I took when I needed to match up the connector... And find the right adaptor.
Glad it helped!

 

[DieselBound]

Finally getting around to install a stereo. Just parsed out all the wiring stuff and thought I'd add a note here on the Isuzu harness (IU02B).

Everything is a fit except that you have to connect the "Front" speaker wires from that harness to the stereo's "Rear" speaker wires. It's not an issue with the Isuzu harness but of Kioti's pin arrangement: from Kioti's schematics (mudplugger, once again, many thanks for the electronic copy of the service manual!) they put the rear wires in the connector where (by apparent standards) the fronts should go. If you were to wire the connector harness to the stereo according to the markings on the connector's and the stereo's wires things would work, but the stereo would only produce sound with the fader set to "Front," which would be kind of confusing (when there's only speakers in the rear of the cab), though it would still work.

I'm going to wrap this up and call it a success, though I haven't wired it up yet: I did test the wires with the connector harness plugged into the tractor harness and everything checked out.

Now I need to figure out how to physically mount the stereo! (and I thought the wiring was going to be the tricky part!) Going to start a separate thread.

 

[mudplugger]

Finally getting around to install a stereo. Just parsed out all the wiring stuff and thought I'd add a note here on the Isuzu harness (IU02B).

Everything is a fit except that you have to connect the "Front" speaker wires from that harness to the stereo's "Rear" speaker wires. It's not an issue with the Isuzu harness but of Kioti's pin arrangement: from Kioti's schematics (mudplugger, once again, many thanks for the electronic copy of the service manual!) they put the rear wires in the connector where (by apparent standards) the fronts should go. If you were to wire the connector harness to the stereo according to the markings on the connector's and the stereo's wires things would work, but the stereo would only produce sound with the fader set to "Front," which would be kind of confusing (when there's only speakers in the rear of the cab), though it would still work.

I'm going to wrap this up and call it a success, though I haven't wired it up yet: I did test the wires with the connector harness plugged into the tractor harness and everything checked out.

Now I need to figure out how to physically mount the stereo! (and I thought the wiring was going to be the tricky part!) Going to start a separate thread.

That's interesting - since mine fired up OK straight away with "front speakers" being the ones that seemed to immediately drive the pair provided (above and slightly behind the occupant) - without any fader adjustment.
I did use the Celsus to ISO adaptor for fitting my DAB radio plug to plug and that seemed fine... plug and play.
Re: other stuff, it's amazing what's in the public domain... no problem.
I'm impressed with my NX6010HST, but a bit disappointed the loader can't handle one of our laden pallets - it will just lift the Pallet - but no tilt/crowd function - so it's dangerous to use for offloading a trailer.
Just sourced a good second hand 3 point link forklift attachment that will lift 1600Kg to 2.80m - way above what we need.
Our pallets are around 880Kg. Lift is from trailer to floor... and back again..

 

[DieselBound]

With my stereo installed I was able to verify that the stereo functions vis a vis fade work as I'd mapped above.

mudplugger, on your loader I'd be inclined to check with your dealer. Maybe the pressure settings aren't right. I've been doing a fair amount of bucket work scooping/loading material (rock/sand) and I KNOW that I've got a LOT of weight and the loader's curl and dump (as well as loader lift/drop) works fine. Dump trailer is about 12k lbs and I'm getting four to five buckets in it and when I go to dump that trailer it strains pretty good (it's a top of the line trailer). BUT, pallet forks tend to extend weight out farther, so perhaps it's all due to that? (my brain will start hurting if I try and calculate the forces; I could do it, but I'm getting older and I'm trying to conserve brain cells :laughing