4310 Rockshaft repair and filter replacement

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Can you grip the key with vise grips to get it out?

Make sure you don't bugger the end of the shaft trying to get it out. If so you will have to sand or file it round again.

 

[Bryan in WV]

Kyle I'm assuming the key is under #13 and that part won't budge from the shaft. I removed the left tire/fender and have good access. I've tried tapping the shaft AND tapping part #13. See pictures.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

Have you tried applying penetrating oil? Even a good one like Kroil or 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone might take several days to work. Warming the part to spit sizzle can also help, and applying the penetrating oil as the part cools will help draw the oil in.:2cents:

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Welcome to TBN. Your pic that points to the shaft end where you have tried tapping, I believe is the correct thing to do. I remember having to get a 3 lb sledge, having only a very small space to swing it. I made a custom length shaft to punch the end of it. Try what RNG told you. It is rusted and stuck.

 

[beenthere]

A little-known product called Blue Creeper is a great rust-buster penetrating oil.. if you ever run across some, give it a try. Beats all my experiences with Kroil.. and doesn't reek like Kroil does.
Excellent oiling quality as well.. saved my wifes's professional sewing machine on her long arm quilter. Bushings started to howl and factory said "it happens, need to change them out" even tho their supplied oil (maybe mineral oil) was amply used..
A few drops of Blue Creeper and the howl stopped, and over 200 quilts later, it has never once howled again. Running smooth as new.

 

[Bryan in WV]

Thanks all for the replies. I got some penetrating oil and put some elbow grease on it and, after some sanding to knock off the rough spots, got it out. I buggered up the gasket though on the valve casing and out of service until I get a new one. a 50 dollar part and 20 hours for a novice to get everything apart .. As soon as it's done I'll be trading up to a 75hp JD ... of course that will be a new thread for advice !!

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Thanks all for the replies. I got some penetrating oil and put some elbow grease on it and, after some sanding to knock off the rough spots, got it out. I buggered up the gasket though on the valve casing and out of service until I get a new one. a 50 dollar part and 20 hours for a novice to get everything apart .. As soon as it's done I'll be trading up to a 75hp JD ... of course that will be a new thread for advice !!

Good deal. Make sure you get some sort of wire bristle brush to clean the rust on the inside that the shaft slides through. and then GREASE IT!

 

[jloven]

I need to bring back this old thread in hopes of getting some ideas and information on how to adjust the 3 point hitch (rockshaft) lever. I have a 4066R cab, 2017 model with 145 hours.
Here is my issue. When the 3 point lever inside the cab is all the way forward, the arms are all the way down of course. That is position 1 on the scale beside the lever. I have to move the lever all the way to position 3 (midway) before the arms will even begin to lift. Once I get to that position, the arms start to lift and do not stop until they reach max height, where the pump begins to strain until I push the lever back ever so slightly. If I move it forward (towards position 1) just a little, the arms go all the way back down.

Here is what I have tried to this point. First, I removed the console covering the lever and adjusted on the cable at the lever end. I ran it all the way in, no change. Ran it all the way out, no change. Second I went to the rear of the tractor. I tried adjusting the linkage there but to no avail. I then removed the lock nut that holds the lever on the shaft which controls the raise and lower of the rockshaft. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/58594/referrer/navigation/pgId/443218409
I don't know how to directly insert a pic off the parts diagrams, but above is the link. The lock nut is #17 and the lever is #19.
Once the nut was removed, I could slide the lever off the splined shaft and rotate it a few degrees ( a couple of splines) and reinstalled it. I thought this would fix my problem for sure, but to no avail. I tried to do that at least 4 times, but still the same result.
Finally, I started tinkering with the feedback rod, #4. I ran it all the way in and then all the way out, stopping several times along the way to test. No change whatsoever.
So, after several hours of trial and error, I am about to give up. I even called 3 different dealerships and tried to get in touch with someone to give me some advice. No luck and no one even called me back as of tonight.
Oh, and I also have a copy of the tech manual, TM131019. Over 2,000 pages of information, but nothing that talks about adjusting the rockshaft that I can find. If anyone figured this out, I would be forever indebted to you if you can assist. Thanks

 

[beenthere]

Not familiar with the 4066R, but there should be a rod that is adjustable and feeds the valve to stop lifting when the rockshaft reaches to top position.

 

[jloven]

OK, I have a little more information now as I continue to investigate the problem. In examining the feedback rod, everything looked fine. This thread eluded to the fact that the pin (26 in the diagram) that holds the lever (11) on the shaft might be broken. In looking at it, it looked fine. However, after I loosened the feedback rod, I moved the rod back and forth, which it moved very easy. So easy, I wondered if the pin had sheared and was just protruding out of the lever. That is in fact what has happened. After removing the feedback rod from the bracket (20, the lever (11) slid completely off the shaft (10). The pin (11) had sheared into and was stuck in the lever.
I am going to try and put another pin back in and see what happens tonight. Hopefully this will fix the problem, but I am concerned that since it took a fair amount of force to break the pin, the shaft maybe locked up. That would be puzzling since the tractor never sits outside and is only 3 years old and 145 hours.
So, if another pin shears, it looks like the only resolution is to remove the manifold (5) and see if I can get to the shaft and fix??