Miller Dialarc
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dragoneggs
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I love charts like these. Sometimes they provide historical insight on the company if you study a bit.
Thanks for the link, according to that chart, this Miller dialarc 300, mod. JH...... was made back in January-July 87. By the looks of the front, it has extra switches for tig welding.
My son took some pics. with his smart phone but lately it's been taking 2-3 days for me to get them and he lives next door, probably the pitures have to be approved by Russian hackers first.
Found one video on youtube of a Miller Dialarc, this is the same one as I just got, must of cost $2k when new back in 87. I probably won't be doing any tig welding anytime soon but a nice option. What I don't get is what in hades is all that arcing and sparking at the bottom of the welding machine when he pushes a button up top? it's near the end of the video, WOW.
Miller Dialarc HF test - YouTube
Miller Dialarc HF test - YouTube
MinnesotaDaveChalmers
Platinum Member
That is the high frequency spark system.
That's what starts the arc on DC and AC tig without touching the metal.
Also, while TIG welding on AC for aluminum, the high freq spark is on continuously to keep the arc going as the AC sine wave goes through its zero crossing points.
The switch is usually labeled: start, off, continuous.
Turn to "off" for stick welding.
Thanks for the info wouldn't of guess that in a 100 years, those are some of the problems I run into when buying used stuff, no manual.
After a trip to the dentist went over to HD, got a 50 amp outlet and breaker, <<wonder if breaker needs to be 50 amp or should I've bought a 30 amp breaker? I have around 20' of AWG 2 entrance cable that I had on my house few years ago.
So tomorrow I'll start the big hookup, I also bought a small package 3/16 6011 rods for a test run, I'm thinking this Miller Dialarc should smoke them. Wanted some 3/16" low high DC rods but he only had them in ten lb packages, want to make sure this thing works first before buying alot of big rods.
MinnesotaDaveChalmers
Platinum Member
Just curious, why did you want 3/16" 7018 instead of 1/8" or 5/32"?
50 amp breaker may not be enough depending on how many amps you decide to weld at.
The tag on the front of your machine lists 90 amps running on 230 volts input - likely for the max 250 amps weld output.
50 amp breaker may not be enough depending on how many amps you decide to weld at.
The tag on the front of your machine lists 90 amps running on 230 volts input - likely for the max 250 amps weld output.
All the other rods were in ten lb. sealed packs, wanted something that would take about 225 amps, the 6011 was in a 5 lb, just under $18.00, this small weld shop doesn't have the selection it used to have and now he's closed on Sat. mornings, not liking that.
So if I set this Miller at 250 welding amps, think it will trip a 50 amp breaker? thought that was what I had in my old garage on my 250 amp Century welder.
I was 6 hrs. yesterday hooking up two 15' cables to a 50 amp breaker, spliced the cables together with splice kit. I was planing on hooking the other end to this 50 amp outlet>> Leviton 5378 5 Amp, 25 Volt, Surface Mounting Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Grounding, Black - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com ,,,,One of the entrance cables I used is 100 amp, wouldn't fit in the 50 amp breaker, the other old cable I had spliced on the other end was a little smaller and faded but I saw where it said rated for 300 volts and that just barely fit in the breaker. Shouldn't need 100 amp entrance cable for 220 volt welder atleast I didn't on my old 250 amp Century but I are not not electrictrian.
So if I set this Miller at 250 welding amps, think it will trip a 50 amp breaker? thought that was what I had in my old garage on my 250 amp Century welder.
I was 6 hrs. yesterday hooking up two 15' cables to a 50 amp breaker, spliced the cables together with splice kit. I was planing on hooking the other end to this 50 amp outlet>> Leviton 5378 5 Amp, 25 Volt, Surface Mounting Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Grounding, Black - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com ,,,,One of the entrance cables I used is 100 amp, wouldn't fit in the 50 amp breaker, the other old cable I had spliced on the other end was a little smaller and faded but I saw where it said rated for 300 volts and that just barely fit in the breaker. Shouldn't need 100 amp entrance cable for 220 volt welder atleast I didn't on my old 250 amp Century but I are not not electrictrian.
Fallon
Super Member
Depending on your welder, you can oversize the breaker compared to the wiring. But that's with a welder with a lower duty cycle. I doubt that Dialarc counts & probably has a 100% duty cycle at max amperage.
Breakers don't protect devices, they protect wire. Make sure all the wire has a greater ampacity rating than your breaker. Re-wiring cords & outlets or putting in bigger breakers is a great way to burn your house down. And when you do insurance wont cover it because your wiring wasn't to code & will call it willfull negligence.
Breakers don't protect devices, they protect wire. Make sure all the wire has a greater ampacity rating than your breaker. Re-wiring cords & outlets or putting in bigger breakers is a great way to burn your house down. And when you do insurance wont cover it because your wiring wasn't to code & will call it willfull negligence.
That sounds like good advice. Funny how the copper cable coming out of the welder is a lot smaller than the aluminum cable I ran from the breaker to the outlet, and that stuff is sooo hard to work with, plus have to have that messy anti oxide grease on it and on my fingers and everything else. Wonder if it's worth messing with aluminum cable, maybe I should get a new copper cable instead.
Fallon
Super Member
A given diameter of aluminum has more resistance & less current carrying capacity than equal copper. So aluminum wire needs to be bigger than copper. But aluminum is cheaper than copper so bigger aluminum is often ran.
At any rate if there is any doubt in your mind, get an electrician to make sure all the wire, plugs & sockets are properly rated. Might cost a few bucks, but it's cheaper than a funeral or new house.
One advantage welding cable has is you are generally holding onto it. So if it gets hot enough to catch fire your hand burned up already.
At any rate if there is any doubt in your mind, get an electrician to make sure all the wire, plugs & sockets are properly rated. Might cost a few bucks, but it's cheaper than a funeral or new house.
One advantage welding cable has is you are generally holding onto it. So if it gets hot enough to catch fire your hand burned up already.
Someone years ago stuck some masking tape above the dial, got some of it of tonight. So finally got a chance to try this Miller out with 3/16, 6011 on AC, not really understanding the the numbers on this, first started with right lever in middle, dial on 0, not enough heat so moved dial all the way up to 100, still not quite enough, then moved right lever all way up put dial on 50, that was enough heat, moved to 60 and that was plenty.
So if the right lever is all way up, 140/310 and the dial is on 60, is that 200 welding amps? and where is my target 250 amp that I'm looking for? The 310 amp I think has to be hooked up to 480 entrance, the most I'm looking for is 250 amps
Stuck the rod once after several rods when the dial was on 50 and right lever all way up and it tripped the 50 amp breaker, so later on I'll get a bigger 100 amp breaker and outlet, the garage has a 200 amp entrance so should be all set there. The way it is now probably be all set if I use 5/32 or smaller rods, it was kinda nice after four years to run some stick rods again.
MinnesotaDaveChalmers
Platinum Member
That setting 140/310 has a 170 amp range. This means at zero it's 140 amps, at 100 it's 310 amps.
Going from zero to "10" will add 17 amps in this case. Counting up will get you your answers.
Or, the math behind it is to use the dial as percentage of the range.
140 + 170(.65) = 250.5 amps.
So turn your dial to about 65 and you have your 250 amps.
Your machine will give you full amperage even on your 200 vac input.
For all of the above to be accurate, you have to make sure your input "jumpers" on the bar where you hook up your main power are in the right location.
Did you make sure that they are correct? There is generally a little diagram under the lid to show where the "'jumpers" go.
Guy at work was telling the same thing, take the 310-140=the>170 percent range, then take the 17 and that will take the place in the 10 spot on the dial then move to the 20 spot, add another 17, 30> another 17, 40> another 17 amps.........then this all changes to another number when the levers is moved to another range setting. I can see right now that one has to be a mathematician to use this Miller dialarc, later on I'll make a chart in the form of that dial, with all the percent numbers written down.
Are you talking about the wiring inside the welder, all's I know is someone ran the main input power cable to a added on switch box on the outside of the welder, and from that switch box is the 220 volt power cord, ten ft long and that is plugged in a 50 amp 220 volt outlet. I was told to be able to run this on full 440 power, wires have to re-arranged inside, so I'm assuming if it's wired for 440, it wont run on 220. But what/where is the LID you think the wiring diagram is on so I can check, where the main power cord comes out?
What I need is the owner's manual for this 1987 Miller dialarc, Talking to another guy at work yesterday who has the same Miller with the twin levers and has an owners manual, said it's almost a inch thick, he wired his direct to his breaker panel on a 100 amp breaker. But my breaker panel is 25' away, so I need an outlet. Besides I want my breaker rated under my 100 amp cable so I dont melt the cable but need more than 50, something like 60 or 70 amp. but the oulet, not sure if they make a 70 amp outlet or 100 amp, might have to stay with the 50 amp outlet, that's what I had before and it seems to be heavy duty to me.
I've been trying to rethink/remember what I used to have four years ago on my Century 250 amp welder, what I know is I had 100 amp in my house, from that a 60 amp breaker I ran heavy 100 amp cable to the garage, 70 ft. away into an old style fuse box, think it was 60 amp, it had 4 of those round 3" long old style fuses and 4 of those smaller round screw in fuses, so I'm thinking two of the round 3" long fuses was rated for 30 amp each that I had the welder hooked on, dont think they was 25 ea. but cant remember, and I dont remember tripping the breaker or blowing fuses, but I must of come close on a 60 amp old style fuse box.
I've been trying to rethink/remember what I used to have four years ago on my Century 250 amp welder, what I know is I had 100 amp in my house, from that a 60 amp breaker I ran heavy 100 amp cable to the garage, 70 ft. away into an old style fuse box, think it was 60 amp, it had 4 of those round 3" long old style fuses and 4 of those smaller round screw in fuses, so I'm thinking two of the round 3" long fuses was rated for 30 amp each that I had the welder hooked on, dont think they was 25 ea. but cant remember, and I dont remember tripping the breaker or blowing fuses, but I must of come close on a 60 amp old style fuse box.
MinnesotaDaveChalmers
Platinum Member
Just take off this side panel and check the little jumpers.
It will look like this picture and have a label inside under the cover.
Just unbolt them to move them to match the incoming service voltage you have at your place.
If you have 200 vac input at your place, it would be the one on the left for example - full machine output amperage will be available as long as your panel has the right breaker and cable feeding the machine.
Miller has your actual owners manual available online for free at millerwelds.com
It will look like this picture and have a label inside under the cover.
Just unbolt them to move them to match the incoming service voltage you have at your place.
If you have 200 vac input at your place, it would be the one on the left for example - full machine output amperage will be available as long as your panel has the right breaker and cable feeding the machine.
Miller has your actual owners manual available online for free at millerwelds.com
stihlman
Bronze Member
Here's a Dialarc set for 230 volt
MinnesotaDaveChalmers
Platinum Member
My Miller jumpers check out like that diagram, set for 200 volts. But why does it have a 200 volt setting when my house and garage has 220 incoming volts? Is 200 and 230 volts for another country maybe?
I'll try to find that online manual for JH... siries later on, be a good rainy day search. You've been great help thanks :thumbsup:
Hey I like that color picture, glad you said it was for 230 volts cause mine isn't like that, thanks a bunch :thumbsup:
Now that I have the side panel off, good time to do some cleaning, a little dusty inside.
