Basic Question

[LD1]

I think you need to go to a dealer with a more knowledgeable salesman and test the HST again.

I concur with others that you either we're in the wrong range, or the park brake set, or both.

Have you ever driven a zero turn? They are similar in function.

HST is basically just a big hydraulic pump driven by the engine. And the wheels are driven by a hydraulic motor. The foot pedal is like the valve that passes fluid from the pump, to the wheels. The more you push the pedal, the faster the tractor tried to go. Going faster takes more power. So if you were in a higher range and trying to mash the pedal, it won't go. And it might stall.
Ease into the pedal.

Alot of HST these days have a slew of features that won't let you stall the tractor, or can automatically adjust engine rpm (power) to the level that is needed.

As for shuttle, others are correct as well. Pick the gear (speed) you want and go. No running through the gears with the exception of the last gear, maybe 2. Example, if tractor is an 8-speed shuttle, you might not be able to start out in 8th gear. Might have to start out in 7th, get some speed, then hit 8th. Just depends on way too many variables than we know at this time.

But step 1.....get to a dealer/salesman that actually understands HST

 

[sandman2234]

I wanted to mention that with the size of the tractor you should be looking at should be in the 50 horsepower range and up. Fifty acres of property with a third to half of it needing mowing will keep you busy on the weekends if you go any smaller. I would seriously consider an 8 foot mower unless the spacing of trees are a problem, but six foot is as small as I would go.
Tires are a little bit of a concern, my Kubota M7040 originally came with R4 tires according to the owner, but the property they were mowing "wasn't right" for them. They removed and replaced them with R1 tires. I am glad they did, as I often get into muddy conditions that would just fill R4 tires up to where they did not get any traction. In your location, the clay is going to be a problem with R4 tires, unless I am wrong. (I have been wrong before!)
My JD2555 is a 2wd tractor, the Kubota is 4wd, and while it is nice to have 4wd, I could probably do without it with what I do with my tractors...most of the time. It is the times that you need 4wd that you are going to "want it". You are in an area where clay is abundant and snow is an issue a few times a year, so 4wd is something you should seriously consider. Getting the tractor stuck when you go to pull your pickup out of the ditch when it slid off the driveway due to ice is never fun, so if the budget allows, go with 4wd.
I started mowing 10 acres up at the Church yesterday, and it is nice to just find the gear that mows best, push the hand throttle up to correct rpm and just steer the tractor. I like to mow in the cool of the evening, and did the "easy part" after dark. My tractor has really good lights, and I have mowed that property for many years, so there are no surprises.
Welcome to TBN, hope to hear more from you.
David from jax

Did anyone mention that having a FEL (front end loader) is NICE!! (Oh, by the way, we don't mind helping you spend your money!!)

 

[ericm979]

I agree that it sounds like the HST tractor the OP tested was in high range. On a tractor with three ranges high range is generally used for driving on the road between work areas. Medium and low range are for working.

My Branson 3725 has linked throttle and HST pedal. They work well in the lower two ranges. I can leave the hand throttle at idle and the linkage raises the throttle when I operate the HST pedals. But in high range the linkage does not provide enough throttle and I have to use the hand throttle.

One thing to keep in mind is that most current Tier IV tractors should be run in a certain range to keep the DPF hot. On my Branson that's 2000-2500 rpm. Extended idling is to be avoided as it will cause the DPF to clog and need service sooner.

 

[newbury]

Land purchase is still in the works. Plan is for 20-50 acres. Pasture land and some woods. What we have looked at so far is relatively flat with some rolling hills. Nothing major. I'll be purchasing a bush hog with the tractor and eventually purchase others i'm sure.

Before we get you up to a 100HP plus tractor lay out YOUR plans and budget. (It looks like the decision is for hydro.)

Let me explain.

20-50 acres - That's a decent range, from a large "farmette" to something it will take a while to drive across.

Pasture land and some woods - What's the mix and what's "some woods"? If you are bushhogging 2 acres out of 20 it is far quicker than 40 acres out of 50. "Woods" implies trees of some size - but size matters. I've about 400 acres of woodland in Mississippi but except for a few spots it's all 50 years or less growth and there are few trees over 2' DBH so rarely do I encounter needing to move a chunk of tree over a ton and my Kubota M4700 handles it all.

Are you going to be running horses/cattle that will require round bales?

They can weigh from 400 lbs to a ton.

So start another thread and lay out your plans for the land so we can help you spend your money and get the economy moving.

Remember a basic tractor is a big paperweight until you start adding attachments to accomplish things. Many of us have more $$ in attachments thane we have in tractors.

 

[kjg26]

The front parcel is gently rolling with roughly 18 acres of pasture and 2 acres of woods, most of that is perimeter woods with some scattered trees.
The back parcel is essentially level with an abrupt slope down from the front pasture. Roughly 27 acres of pasture and 7 acres of woods, again, mostly perimeter woods with some scattered about.


So...primarily pasture. I would keep the few acres around the home site close cut and the rest rough cut with a rotary cutter.

Horses may be in the future.

As far as size of tractor I've been pricing Cab tractors in the 40-55 hp range.

 

[LD1]

45 acres of pastures, if your intent is to maintain with a rotary and no farming or haying, I'd want a tractor big enough to pull a 15' batwing.

Don't know how mechanically handy you are, or what your other tasks are, but a tractor that large bay be cumbersome for some other tasks.

Perhaps a 2-tractor plan? Big old iron to pull a cutter and smaller 40-50hp hst for day to day stuff.

 

[kjg26]

I may not be thinking about this right but I figured cut the back once or twice a year and keep the rest regularly maintained. Would love to make them into hay fields and/or pasture for animals later on

 

[TomSeller]

45 acres of pastures, if your intent is to maintain with a rotary and no farming or haying, I'd want a tractor big enough to pull a 15' batwing.

Don't know how mechanically handy you are, or what your other tasks are, but a tractor that large bay be cumbersome for some other tasks.

Perhaps a 2-tractor plan? Big old iron to pull a cutter and smaller 40-50hp hst for day to day stuff.

That is what I would do as well. Good old iron higher HP shuttle 2WD is not that expensive and better suited for mowing as long as it is relatively flat ground. Then the newer 4WD HST for everything else. Leave the mower on the 2WD and dedicate it to mowing. Get the used stuff checked out, however.

 

[rScotty]

That is what I would do as well. Good old iron higher HP shuttle 2WD is not that expensive and better suited for mowing as long as it is relatively flat ground. Then the newer 4WD HST for everything else. Leave the mower on the 2WD and dedicate it to mowing. Get the used stuff checked out, however.

Whew! He does have a lot of land to maintain, doesn't he?? And says that horses may be in his future, too. That means hay, haying, and bales..

I like that 2 tractor idea too. In fact, I'll bet if you take a look around your neck of the woods you'll find that most people with that much property have come to the same conclusion. That way neither tractor has to be so much of a compromise. One can be an older well-used and well-maintained 2wd ag field tractor...probably has a cab, probably has a gear drive transmission, weights 10K lbs or up, can pull a big mower, and has at least a category 2 3pt lift that can hoist just about anything. HP may range fro 60 to 100. Expect it to have thousands of hours on it. These old ag tractors last forever, but a full time farmer still wants a newer one, which means that perfectly good serviceable 20 year old or older tractors are a drag on the market and make it easy to find a good one. If it has a loader, it can easily lift & carry a round bale or a horse....maybe several. My old farm tractor meets most of this description and is almost 50 years old. & works perfectly. Right now it is hooked up to and pulling a huge back blade that must weigh 3000 lbs.

Oddly enough, this ag tractor is likely to be considerably less expensive than the other tractor, which is your "around-the-farmyard "chore tractor" that you originally asked about. The chore tractor will be a category 1 3pt hitch, probably HST or at least shuttle type. Probably ought to be either new or with under 500 hours and very well maintained. This is the one that cannot fail. It has to be ready to go at all times. It will most likely be a 4wd 30 to 45 hp tractor. Often without a cab, but with a nice loader with quick attach bucket. And ultimately several attachments including a grapple, some sort of "around the farmyard mower", post hole digger or 3pt backhoe attachment, a grader and box blade.

Yes, we are having fun spending your money and I'm pleasantly surprised at how much most of us agree on. Here's some homework if you are interested. Go to some other farms of roughly the same size and type and see what they have.
Good luck,
rScotty

 

[newbury]

I may not be thinking about this right but I figured cut the back once or twice a year and keep the rest regularly maintained. Would love to make them into hay fields and/or pasture for animals later on

You will have 45 acres of weed trees if you don't keep them maintained. Have you approached your neighbor to the north about haying your land?
It looks like in 2014 they had a lot of round bales.