Wanted: First and Last drill press I'll ever own

[dragoneggs]

I have a 30+ year old craftsman floor standing. Easy belt changes for speed control, a cast iron table and base and it has been good to me. I think the bearings are going out and my dream is to get a reasonably priced mill as a replacement. Got my eye on some grizzly models but when I do the math and try to justify it, I can't. But I know once I retire and have the time to enjoy it, I won't be able to afford so... I should pull the trigger soon!

 

[Turbys_1700]

I scored the heaviest Harbor Freight floor model off Craigslist for $60. No problems in 3 years. I would like to get a decent mill but they are hard to find locally used.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I vote for a mill-drill tool.

 

[yomax4]

This is what I have done and I am by no means suggesting it is the best way. Just saying that it works for me.

I TRY to purchase older quality bench top DP's and refurbish them if necessary (most often the case.). I'm pretty certain I have UNDER $200 invested in the drills in the first picture.

View attachment 531354

For REAL heavy drilling a mill drill or mill (as others have mentioned) works well though.
View attachment 531355

My drill press table crank is stripped out. I'll be stealing your idea on the trailer tongue jack idea.

 

[Big Barn]

My drill press table crank is stripped out. I'll be stealing your idea on the trailer tongue jack idea.

Hopefully this will save you a little time:

I couldn't (or was too lazy to) remove the table assembly or headstock from my press. I had my bearing supplier special order (yours may NOT need to) SPLIT locking collars to match my column's diameter.


I welded a handle to one setscrew.



The collar can then be used for fabricating your mounting bracket.

 

[Big Barn]

I vote for a mill-drill tool.

IF you go that route, at the very least get a small, cheap big box store drill press. I got this one used for $20 and keep it set up with a step drill.

I use it whenever possible for holes up to 1/2" in material UNDER 3/16. It's just the way I LIKE it... Quick & Dirty! (oops I didn't say that out loud did I?...)

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Hopefully this will save you a little time:

I couldn't (or was too lazy to) remove the table assembly or headstock from my press. I had my bearing supplier special order (yours may NOT need to) SPLIT locking collars to match my column's diameter.

View attachment 531380
I welded a handle to one setscrew.

View attachment 531381

The collar can then be used for fabricating your mounting bracket.

You sure do show off a lot.
Just kidding, It's awesome! :drink:

 

[Big Barn]

You sure do show off a lot.
Just kidding, It's awesome! :drink:

I blame it on seein' the trailer for the new Barnum and Bailey movie

 

[lostcreekranch]

I had some broken/stripped bolts in a pump that occasionally re-occur (design weakness.) I was using a hand drill to drill a hole, then insert an EZ out spinning in reverse to get the broken bolt out. But sometimes my aim was bad and if I was a little off I ruined the threads in the pump while trying to get the bolt out.

My solution was to buy a Craftsman drill press from Sears. Since I always wanted a drill press, I bought the top-of-the-line most expensive model. It's heavy and lugging it home and setting it up was a chore. Laser sights and all the goodies.

When I fired it up, that's when I learned it doesn't operate in reverse.

Doh! You can still turn it, in reverse, by hand.

 

[lostcreekranch]

You need to see if the chuck can be removed easily. On mine if you drop down the spindle there is a slot to put in a drift to remove.
I have an older drill press that has a taper fit in the spindle and a "taper to Jacobs chuck" adapter, then the chuck.
When I got it new the chuck kept falling out of the spindle. I put the adapter w/chuck in the freezer for a while then put it in and it has stayed.
You might just be able to remove and reseat it.

Agree. Try this before returning.