My NX5510H

[DieselBound]

Eric, my latch hasn't done that, yet, though it's froze up ("froze" is kind of relative, comparing my climate to yours :laughing - I needed to merely blow exhaled air on my key to warm it up get it unlocked).

I hope that my dealer uses the right sealant (the service manual does spell it out): I'm a bit annoyed that they used RTV to seal up the cab top (yeah, getting that off ain't going to be fun- I've already pried it up a bit in the rear to snake my rearview camera wiring). I'm probably going to shell out for transport costs (my time is very limited, and my truck ain't a powerhouse) and I'd really hate to have to do a do-over! If I were to do this job myself it would probably cost me about the same as the transport costs; and, if I did the work then the factory would be off the hook- I see it as perhaps helping ensure that there will be less of these kinds of QA issues that other, future owners might face.

 

[DieselBound]

It was June 2016, when they fixed it , with about 250-300 hrs on it. What type of transport cost are you looking at ? I had it for a year and half, not sure but I think my dealer would have charged a pickup and return fee also, I never really asked because I haul all my own stuff.

Had the tractor picked up last Monday. Dealer quoted me $250 for transport costs: gave me a break; that would be standard up to 10 miles; I'm many more miles away.

Was looking at the loader just as I was cleaning it up a bit getting it ready for transport and I see that, once again, the right loader arm is lower than on the left. Sigh... Not sure if these loaders are weak or what. I mentioned this (via e-mail) to the dealer and said that I really don't expect anything to be done, BUT, that I'd like them to check it out and note it to the factory rep.

 

[DieselBound]

Tractor is back home. They resealed both axle casings. Had them check the loader arms and they said they were fine: Kioti rep was even there. Not sure what's up here, but as I'd said previously, I'm not going to fret over it (perhaps it just resettles?).

Not a lot more use possible this year as we're now getting in to the rainy season. I'll be looking to rid myself of some aggravating hydraulic leaks I have with my rear remote lines (top link and hoses for my grapple).

 

[DieselBound]

Wanted to follow up on Country's asking about my transport costs. Dealer gave me a break (because I didn't rush them on the job)- $136. Totally worth it to me: the guy returning it ran into a bunch of traffic.

 

[DieselBound]

I'd been documenting in another thread an issue with the left side cab door not closing tightly. My issue wasn't an exact match for that thread so I figured I'd pull my issue back into my thread here.

Background:

Door used to easily close from the inside by pulling on the support rail. About a month and a half ago I found that the door would more often than not just bounce and not latch. It came down to having to apply more energy to latch properly. I was unable to adjust the hook(?) on the cab frame so that the door would both latch easily AND tightly. I can get it to more easily latch but then the seal is poor (bottom lower corner) and I get a fair increase in engine noise coming in.

The seal on the glass is well compressed on the rear/hinge end of the door (I need to take a closer look to how the right door is fitting/sealing). It makes contact sooner at the top front corner than at the bottom front corner. And it's the front bottom corner where it's not really sealing at all (seal just barely touches)- this results in increased noise. Here's a picture that kind of shows all this:


Although there is no adjustment at the hinges it's like the top hinge is tighter to the cab frame, causing the back half of the door to bottom out before the front can get any compression to the seal (at the front end).

In that thread Threepoint suggested that the glass may have been marginally produced, that the deflection might be more than allowable specs. Because I have nothing else to go by I went ahead and measured bow, or measured what I figured would be a good place to measure at. I measured from the middle top of the (inside) glass to the bottom (inside) rear (lower part of fender and just above the step). Measurements on the left door were: 2.334" On the right door I got: 2.123" This would indicate a difference in bow of almost 1/4" I can only guess that the left door's top is pulled in by ~1/4" more: cupped more at the top (top is making contact sooner)- I should look to take measurements from top to middle and then middle to bottom to establish whether this could be the case.

I'd thought about swapping the door latches (from the glass doors) side to side. The one on the left has to be more worn than the other side but, while this may account for the door not wanting to latch as readily, it doesn't account for the fact that the door isn't sealing as it did/should.

Many thanks to countrybumpkin for trying to help me figure this out.

 

[joe04785]

Hey DieselBound, I had a similar issue with my first tractor which was a ck30 hst with the kioti add on cab. A couple of days after I bought the machine, I decided to wash it. I noticed on the driver's side the water would enter the cab, just like the door was not sealing. After three times of bringing the tractor back to the dealer, it was determined that the hinge was not welded on straight to the cab from the factory. Dealer actually gave the hinge a bit more of a bend to it and that did the trick. I never had a problem with water entering the cab after that. I know that this is probably not the same issue as yours. FYI

 

[DieselBound]

Yeah, that's a possibility, though the issue popped up 9 - 10 months after owning. Maybe it was marginal, and due to other settlings, it's now gone out-of-tolerance. It's kind of frustrating because there's really not all that much to this, yet the source of the problem seems exceedingly elusive. If I do get around to pulling the door I'll scrutinize whether I can alter that hinge (assuming that the top one is the primary contributor/player): as I'd noted, perhaps shimming on the inner side of the attachment bracket in order to hold that hinge out a bit further.

Sunday will be the earliest I can do any more investigation into this. Hopefully by more closely examining both sides I can get a better idea of what's going on.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Yeah, that's a possibility, though the issue popped up 9 - 10 months after owning. Maybe it was marginal, and due to other settlings, it's now gone out-of-tolerance. It's kind of frustrating because there's really not all that much to this, yet the source of the problem seems exceedingly elusive. If I do get around to pulling the door I'll scrutinize whether I can alter that hinge (assuming that the top one is the primary contributor/player): as I'd noted, perhaps shimming on the inner side of the attachment bracket in order to hold that hinge out a bit further.

Sunday will be the earliest I can do any more investigation into this. Hopefully by more closely examining both sides I can get a better idea of what's going on.

Get out a plastic ice cream lid or similar and make yourself a tool that looks like an artist's knife (flat, non-marring, hopefully with a handle). Try to see where you can push it past the seal on the door. Compare with the none-good side. Alternatively, you can use a feeler gauge but be cool about not scratching the glass or poking holes into the seal. Anyway, where you can push through, that's where your leak is.

 

[DieselBound]

Eric, mentioning ice cream this time of year? :laughing: I'm OK re water leaks (thank goodness!). It's just the lower part of the door that doesn't seal well- it is "sound" that's leaking in I've got some car work to attend to before getting around doing any more evaluation; hoping that I'll have some time next weekend.

I'm really not sure how to present this to the dealer.

 

[countrybumpkin]

So did you get this fixed?