My NX5510H

   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#231  
Country, thanks for that input. Do you recall what the dealer did to resolve that leak? I heard back from mine and he said that they'd handle/cover it; but, he said that I might want to see if any of the bolts are loose (he's going to get me the torque specs), also said that I might find that RTV-ing some of the bolts might fix (says that some bolts might protrude into the fluid and there may be some that aren't sealing up). I'm going to poke around in the service manual to see if any of this makes sense (and perhaps get the torque specs while I'm there). I have no issue with trying some simple fixes rather than go through the hassle of running the tractor back and forth from the dealer: I'd probably have to drop the loader in order to haul the tractor with my old truck- full weight is really pushing it; and then there's the case of my utility trailer's decaying decking (decking was on the verge of needing a reworking when I got it a few years ago).

I really need to get out and do a little mowing: punch back on some brush before it gets a good launch for next spring. Fencing project and some major car repairs have kept me off the tractor of late.
 
   / My NX5510H #232  
My dealer removed the axle housing and then resealed it.
 
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   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#233  
How many hours did you have when that was done? How long had you had it? Reason I'm asking is because my dealer has "warned" me that transport costs would be borne by me: I'd been notified of this back when I purchased the tractor; I really don't have a problem with this, but am just curious how other dealers operate in situations like this (warranty stuff).

I looked in the service manual and I don't see any mention of sealing bolts in the axle housing: they do mention to be careful about resealing the case, to watch out not to get excess inside the case (where it could be picked up by the hydraulic fluid). This suggests that the only thing I'm likely able to do is to try torquing those bolts (which I found the torque values for); I don't expect this to have any effect, but it's easy enough to check. Gotta figure that with things like this that dealers make money on: I pay them to transport, and the factory pays them for the repair(s).
 
   / My NX5510H #234  
It was June 2016, when they fixed it , with about 250-300 hrs on it. What type of transport cost are you looking at ? I had it for a year and half, not sure but I think my dealer would have charged a pickup and return fee also, I never really asked because I haul all my own stuff.
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#235  
I haven't gotten a quote yet. I have to factor in my time: hooking things up, loading and the drive (almost an hour away): multiply by 2 (include scheduling my time; I have so much stuff on my plate that if I look at it all at once I go catatonic!).

Later today I'm going to put a wrench to those bolts. Not sure even if they were loose that the sealant would take the added compression such that it would seal up.
 
   / My NX5510H #236  
My dealer asked me to check the bolts also, he said the same thing about it having sealer though too. I think he said the DK series that the NX replaced had gaskets and had several that they had to retorq those bolts on. It appears they resealed mine with a RTV sealer of some type, if I had done it I think I would have used anaerobic sealer, but I've had no other issues yet
 
   / My NX5510H #237  
My dealer asked me to check the bolts also, he said the same thing about it having sealer though too. I think he said the DK series that the NX replaced had gaskets and had several that they had to retorq those bolts on. It appears they resealed mine with a RTV sealer of some type, if I had done it I think I would have used anaerobic sealer, but I've had no other issues yet
A little weeping is nothing to worry about. When drips form, then you have an issue. There is how many gallons of oil in there? Opening it up to reseal might make it worse if not done right.
Don't put RTV on bolts. Blue thread lock will seal and hold tight. The RTV can get in front of the bolt causing it to bottom before it gets tight.
Anarobic sealer cures with the absence of air.
RTV cures when it reaches air. Room Temperature Volcanising
Use what the manufacturer uses.
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#238  
OK, thanks for the input. I really have no intention of resealing this myself (I don't have the ability/facilities). "Weep" was the wrong word in my instance; there are drips (just very slow/minor at this point, but I suspect it'll only get worse). Service manual says to use Loctite 5060 or equivalent.
 
 
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