What are the general rules of tractor sizes?

[lostcreekranch]

I was looking at the MX5200 and Grand L 5460 and 6060 as my very first tractor. Never operated one before. I decided to listen to these guys and go bigger, I ended up with an M7060 and glad I went with that. It's a little light for plowing or discing, only maybe because I have R4's, my tires spin. I would love to see how it works with R1's. I can't have cast centers with the R4 rims, they are different . I can only add the 103 lb bolt on wheel weights, 3 per side...Will 600 lbs make much more of a difference? I don't know, but to do that it'll cost me a grand. Should have got those when I ordered, they are cheaper.

Are your rear tires loaded with fluid? That really makes a huge difference.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Are your rear tires loaded with fluid? That really makes a huge difference.

I went with cast iron to start with, then added more cast iron, then filled all 4 of my tires, then added more cast iron. Finally got the traction that I needed-wanted. :thumbsup: Ended up adding 2200-2600lbs, I forget now.

Not only is filling the tires now my first recommendation for added traction and stability, but in my opinion the ride is BY FAR BETTER than just having air in the tires.

I added fluid to all four tires of my 32hp tractor, got the gross weight up to 5000lbs. Now instead of a cute little machine that struggled doing difficult dirt jobs, it actually works up to it's actual HP capabilities. :thumbsup:

My comments are based on what has worked well for me with what I have and work with.

Just my :2cents:

 

[lostcreekranch]

I went with cast iron to start with, then added more cast iron, then filled all 4 of my tires, then added more cast iron. Finally got the traction that I needed-wanted. :thumbsup: Ended up adding 2200-2600lbs, I forget now.

Not only is filling the tires now my first recommendation for added traction and stability, but in my opinion the ride is BY FAR BETTER than just having air in the tires.

I added fluid to all four tires of my 32hp tractor, got the gross weight up to 5000lbs. Now instead of a cute little machine that struggled doing difficult dirt jobs, it actually works up to it's actual HP capabilities. :thumbsup:

My comments are based on what has worked well for me with what I have and work with.

Just my :2cents:

Brian, did you have to drill your wheels to add the first (inner) weights? My wheels only have holes for lugs.

I assume, once the inner weight are installed, the rest just bolt to inner weights? Mine rears are loaded with water and some RV Antifreeze.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, did you have to drill your wheels to add the first (inner) weights? My wheels only have holes for lugs.

I assume, once the inner weight are installed, the rest just bolt to inner weights? Mine rears are loaded with water and some RV Antifreeze.

Rick, actually the inner weight and the first outer weight are bolted together sandwiching the rim using existing holes intended for this exact application. Then you just start stacking (bolting) one weight at a time.

The first year of this model came with 2 sets of wheel weights and a set of 8 front weights. I doubled up on the front weights and tripled the rear weights.

The pic that has to be clicked on shows the single set of front weights and the rears with 4 sets on at that time. More weight was needed so that I can get full capabilities from the machine.

 

[mopardude318]

Are your rear tires loaded with fluid? That really makes a huge difference.

Yes, I made sure they were fluid filled. However, I will say that I do not know what the dealer used as a fluid....Probably would have been a good question to ask, huh?.

Can you work with your dealer and have him order in a tractor with your weight's on it? Just a thought.

That is an excellent idea! It probably would work. But today I went to the annual CalAgExpo tractor show. WOW. What an awesome time. Everything tractor/farming related. Incredible! and HUGE!!! Sure would be nice to have an extra couple hundred grand to shopping around with!

I talked one of my dealer reps who was at the show, and he ordered me a set of wheel weights, 20% off and no shipping costs. $300 dollar savings, so how could I say no to that. lol. I'm excited to bolt on my new wheel weights when they come.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Yes, I made sure they were fluid filled. However, I will say that I do not know what the dealer used as a fluid....Probably would have been a good question to ask, huh?.



That is an excellent idea! It probably would work. But today I went to the annual CalAgExpo tractor show. WOW. What an awesome time. Everything tractor/farming related. Incredible! and HUGE!!! Sure would be nice to have an extra couple hundred grand to shopping around with!

I talked one of my dealer reps who was at the show, and he ordered me a set of wheel weights, 20% off and no shipping costs. $300 dollar savings, so how could I say no to that. lol. I'm excited to bolt on my new wheel weights when they come.

If you don’t have major freezing issues in Hollister area your ok but , would be good to know what your dealer used. Hopefully not calcium chloride.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Rick, actually the inner weight and the first outer weight are bolted together sandwiching the rim using existing holes intended for this exact application. Then you just start stacking (bolting) one weight at a time.

The first year of this model came with 2 sets of wheel weights and a set of 8 front weights. I doubled up on the front weights and tripled the rear weights.

The pic that has to be clicked on shows the single set of front weights and the rears with 4 sets on at that time. More weight was needed so that I can get full capabilities from the machine.

Ok, I just snapped to the fact that you added the weights to your 75 HP tractor. I have extra holes, for weights, on my 96 HP New Holland with reversible wheels like yours.



My 55 HP LS Tractor wheels aren’t reversible and don’t have the extra holes for weights.



The 55 HP is what I use for most of my dirt work. Maybe I have to fluid fill fronts as well?

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Best answer right there.

When I tractor shop....or recommend a tractor for someone....I pay no regard to "category"......who cares what "category" a tractor is.....its about getting the right machine regardless.

The SCUT class is pretty easy....they are little. I dont want to offend anyone with comments like saying "they are barley a step above a garden tractor" or "they arent a real tractor".....but those phrases do come up.

CUT.....is probably the widest stretching category that we here on TBN are familiar with.

Just park a B2320 next to a GL6060 and step back and look at them......and remember in your head....these two tractors are in the same "category".:laughing:

Same can be said with a deere 2xxx vs a 4xxx.

And kubota puts the MX tractors in the "utility" class.....all be it and "economy utility" class. But they are built on the same platform as the larger GrandL CUT platform. So that makes no sense.

And The M5660 is in the full fledged "utility" class. As is the M6 tractors. Look at those two side by side and there is NO comparison at all.

I have an MX5100. Dont know weather others consider it a CUT or a UT. Dont make a difference at all to me. Dont care. It does what I need. And is the BIGGEST frame tractor that kubota makes with a HST.

If someone would make a tractor with TALLER front tires....like the M6060 but still offered in a HST....I'd give it a serious look. But as it is now.....9.5x16 front R1 tires seem to be the largest you can get and still have HST trans.

Used to have a JD2040. A little heavier than my MX, but less power. And roughly the same physical size, wheelbase, rear tire size, etc. JD considered it a utility at the time.

The old ford 2000-3000 series were considered utilitys....though by todays standards they would probably be CUT's.

So the lines between classes have evolved....and blured. And they will probably continue to do so. The tractors that many of us have as "utility" machines for our "hobbies".......The 50-70HP machines we own and dont even farm.......50 years ago someone farming a family 100-200 acre farm....that would have been their biggest machine doing the bulk of the plowing and discing. Now its rare (in my area) to see less than a 150HP 4wd and 12,000# of machine in a field. Times have sure changed

My great grandpa that I never met farmed just over 100 acres with horses, I’m sure he would have gave his left nut to have my 48hp cabbed compact with a loader and HST.

The 9hp cub was a big tractor in those days for a small farm working man.

Farmall Cub Vintage 1947 Rare Ad MUST SEE - YouTube

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Ok, I just snapped to the fact that you added the weights to your 75 HP tractor. I have extra holes, for weights, on my 96 HP New Holland with reversible wheels like yours.

View attachment 540149

My 55 HP LS Tractor wheels aren’t reversible and don’t have the extra holes for weights.

View attachment 540148

The 55 HP is what I use for most of my dirt work. Maybe I have to fluid fill fronts as well?

If you feel that you need the additional traction, then by all means yes. You will also find that the tires hold a load better, less area to compress the air into.

 

[ericm979]

I do not know what the dealer used as a fluid...

When I was getting quotes from that dealer they said they use plain water.