77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression

   / 77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression #111  
Geeze, Captain Buzzkill McNaysayer

Oh, I totally forgot about how the clutch probably won't match up either. I didn't mean to underestimate the difficulty of this by leaving that part out - lol
 
   / 77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression
  • Thread Starter
#112  
Indeed. However, you will find out that when your tractor is working the way you want it to things tend to get pretty boring outside of doing the normal things with them, which can be boring too by the way. Probably a good boring none-the-less. Since I've been a member here there are periods which seem like months when there is almost no activity in the Iseki forum. All you can hear is the purring of fine-running, well oiled machines ;) It only gets exciting when stuff breaks.

Is that why you have so many tractors? Always adopting problem children? My craftsman GT5000 was a problem child but too good of a deal to pass up. Im a sucker for deals and fun projects, but what Ive been really wanting is a front end loader and a backhoe. I settled on just the front loader for now, but Im still constantly looking for anything skinnier than 45 with a backhoe. My fence can be made to squeeze something 48 wide past with a running start, but I need the smallest possible for maneuverability. My lot is small, so are the paths, so are the distances between fruit trees. Either way Im getting a tractor with a frame mounted backhoe one of these days.

Thanks for helping out through this project, not too many people in Orange County are tractor enthusiasts, or knowledgable enough to help.
 
   / 77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression #113  
You're welcome. I like helping out and generally learn a lot along the way too - like now I'll fully examine the oil pan gaskets for correct fit! The tractor thing just grew on me after I purchased the first one. I was not necessarily looking for a tractor but something with four wheel drive to move my trailer around my yard. A four-wheeler would have been my second choice. Paid way too much for something that looked nice but was repaired only enough to get sold. I remember going to pick it up and when I first saw it I couldn't believe it was really that small of a tractor! I was expecting about 3 times the size. I almost turned around and went home. But after picking it up I found out it fit my needs well - small enough to move around my small yard and get that trailer parked where there was no hope of my truck being able to go there. It seemed built well enough for what I needed and more robust and versatile than a four-wheeler. Of course after my trailer was parked I had some free time to do some upgrades and fix some things that were broken. Then I started coming across the "good deals" and couldn't turn them down. They usually turn out to be a good deal for a reason - I am a pretty firm believer that you generally get what you pay for. I think the G154 I just picked up was the best of the bunch but was still a non-runner. I collect chain saws too - something I would NOT recommend by the way. I think they call it "CAD" according to ArboristSite.com - 'Chainsaw Acquisition Disorder.' So I have CAD and TAD. Maybe a tad more of CAD since I have more chainsaws than I do tractors. It definitely is a disorder though. I'm also the guy that runs around getting killed on the first-person shooter games as I pick up and admire all the discarded guns people throw away or are left over after they die. "Hey, that's a perfectly good gun someone got rid of - probably only needs a set of piston rings and it will work again" LOL Don't get me started on the gold mines junk yards are!
 
   / 77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression
  • Thread Starter
#114  
I saw a bolens 4x4 either the G154 or G174 with a front loader and backhoe for sale on craigslist about a year ago for $3000. By the time I decided that was a great deal and I wanted it an hour later it was sold and the ad taken down. It looked like someone loved it too, nice and clean with the decals still intact. I still think about that one, and will still keep looking. I found my GT5000 for $500 non-running and it came with sleeve hitch, a disk, box scraper, dozer blade, seed spreader, and 2 non-working weed wackers. I sold off the implements for more than $500 because they were worthless on my clay soil. Then I bought a GT3000 at an auction that had ag tires, wheel weights, and an electric sleeve hitch for $250. I pulled all the goodies off that and replaced them with the wheels from the GT5000 and sold that one for $500. Once Im done with the Beaver Im hoping to start wheeling and dealing some similar tractors to support my habits.
 
   / 77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression
  • Thread Starter
#115  
Heres an update for the hydraulic screen side project.
I had it in the parts washer for a while to try and soften it up and general cleaning, but it was still stuck together. Then I used heat to soften the glue and pull the ends off, afterwards it was media blasted and Ill paint the flange before regluing.
Im trying to figure out what kind of glue to put it back together with. Ive heard epoxy will gum up and dissolve in oil, and theres some things that might be too strong and wont be able to loosen up and come off with heat like the original stuff. I was thinking of some gorilla glue type stuff or even rtv gasket maker.
 
   / 77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression
  • Thread Starter
#116  
Heres a walkaround of the tractor, kind of a long video, but I was trying to be thorough.
 
   / 77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression #117  
I didn't apply any glues to the hydraulic screen assembly when I put the new screen on. I have no idea if there was meant to be any type of adhesive on or not. I wouldn't think it would be required if you bend the ends over and put the caps on. They were pretty tight just by doing that. One thing to keep in mind on silicone type sealants and adhesives is they are not fully compatible with mineral based oils and fuel. They will tend to soften/melt over time. It is better than nothing in most instances but there are better adhesives out there. Loctite 51531 and 'Threebond' are supposed to be good for these applications.
 
   / 77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression
  • Thread Starter
#118  
I didn't apply any glues to the hydraulic screen assembly when I put the new screen on. I have no idea if there was meant to be any type of adhesive on or not. I wouldn't think it would be required if you bend the ends over and put the caps on. They were pretty tight just by doing that. One thing to keep in mind on silicone type sealants and adhesives is they are not fully compatible with mineral based oils and fuel. They will tend to soften/melt over time. It is better than nothing in most instances but there are better adhesives out there. Loctite 51531 and 'Threebond' are supposed to be good for these applications.

Ill look into those, thanks. Id rather it never come apart again than have it melt away into the system.

Not sure if you had time to watch the long video, but I had a few questions about the hydraulic system on the beaver and where to mount the remote oil filter.
 
   / 77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression #119  
I just got a chance to watch all of the longer video. If you're going to install a spin-on type hydraulic filter it should go in the low pressure (suction) line to the pump which you correctly identified as the larger of the two lines connected to the pump. Yes, the black filter is the engine oil filter and yes the hydraulic pump is to the right of that. In-between is the engine oil pump which is relatively thin, actually right where the oil filter screws to. The hydraulic pump and engine oil pump run off a common shaft and gear, but that is their only association. I suppose it would be possible to get cross-contamination but I've never heard or seen of that happening that I can remember.
 
   / 77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression
  • Thread Starter
#120  
I was able to find some mesh at a local industrial hardware store. They did not know the micron size, but it was brass 100 mesh and looked very similar to the remnants on the filter. I have it all soldered on the filter frame and glued up to the ends. Im going to give the glue 24h to set up and then Ill give it a quick coat of paint on the cover and install it when dry. I used loctite 680 retaining compound, I was told this will loosen with heat, not degrade in oil, and keep it together in the housing.
 

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