White oak removal with B2650?

[check]

With that ripper claw from BXPANDED, wouldn't you end up needing to swap from claw to bucket? Your not actually removing any material with that thing, your turning the backhoe into a razor knife with it. I assume you jam the knife in, slice and dice real nice and then go to the bucket to remove the debris. Then go back to that knife and start over, but going another layer deeper?

You also need to get the quick attach, so that you can swap back-and-forth between the bucket and the ripper tooth in a few seconds.

 

[747driver]

Don't just start digging at the base of the stump, you'll get nowhere. Start about 5 feet back and work around and into the stump. Remove dirt and cut the roots as you move in.

I do it all the time at my cabin with pine. It makes a giant hole, but it's easier and faster in the long run. This works even better if the neighbor fills the hole.

That's the way I do it !! Pine tree roots are a pain. I try to do it when the ground is wet...comes out easier....

 

[oldballs]

Here's a stump removed using hand tools...just as an FYI. I don't know why an old gezzer would worry about the ball that's covered 8 inches under ground....unless there is a specific reason. I probably spent a day getting it out. Six of them is a different deal however, even with some tractor help.

Cheers,
Mike.

 

[4570Man]

You're way under on your time estimate, and the ability to lift the stump out of the hole with your machine.

Agreed. His machine isn't even going to think about lifting the 14" stump with the huge root ball he's going to have. Maybe trees grow different where he's at but here they grow down to the flat rock and then grow out with a massive amount of roots. Cutting them with a sawzall is as practical as cutting the grass with scissors. A hickory stump would be a lot easier. Once you cut the tap root it's pretty much over and there's so few other roots that dirt won't stick in the root ball. If you proceed with this project don't give the guy a time estimate and leave room to quit if it's not going your way.

 

[AWSubie]

With that ripper claw from BXPANDED, wouldn't you end up needing to swap from claw to bucket? Your not actually removing any material with that thing, your turning the backhoe into a razor knife with it.

I assume you jam the knife in, slice and dice real nice and then go to the bucket to remove the debris. Then go back to that knife and start over, but going another layer deeper?

Your assumption is correct. But you don't really need the bucket until after the tree is down. The ripper cuts the side roots and loosens the soil around roots making for a much smaller root ball to contend with. I don't know how well your tractor will be able to push on the trunk because of its size but since you have plenty of other trees near by you could use a come-along to pull the tree over.

 

[John_Mc]

Just a word of warning: Digging stumps is one of the tougher things you'll do with a backhoe. It takes time, and can be hard on equipment. Unless White Oak grows a whole lot differently in your area than in mine, I agree with those who have said you are probably underestimating your time.

 

[Deere Dude]

To bad you couldn't have cabled and kept pressure on the tree a certain direction then dig around the stump and keep on applying pressure. The ball would have peeled right out.

 

[Rock Crawler]

To bad you couldn't have cabled and kept pressure on the tree a certain direction then dig around the stump and keep on applying pressure. The ball would have peeled right out.

The job isn't done, so that's an option. I have a 12,000 lb winch that i could run to it, then start digging with the winch holding steady pressure. Great idea!

 

[Tractor Seabee]

If that is true, then they shouldn't be as bad as I'm fearing. The reciprocating saw will make quick work of roots as I find them.

Rock, I have dug out some alders that big with my BX. I have the 8" bucket and it works good at ripping away roots as the teeth are close together. Some of the roots get to 5-6". Used a small chain saw on the bigger roots after clearing dirt away. I have had to dig a ramp the roll them out as my BX wouldn't lift them. Usually half a day minimum after the trunks are cleared away. I'll bet he did not leave a 6' of trunk to provide leverage for pushing it around when it gets loose. I've pushed whole 4" alders out of loose ground with the FEL. Amazing what leverage will do once the tree starts to lean. I called each tree a 6 pack job. "Chuckle"

The worst I tackled were some 10" maples. Their roots are real criss/cross maze of small roots spread over a large area. Holes were 6' across and 3' deep. Leveraged id not help much. They were a whole day job (2 6 packs).

Happy digging, Ron

 

[Rock Crawler]

Rock, I have dug out some alders that big with my BX. I have the 8" bucket and it works good at ripping away roots as the teeth are close together. Some of the roots get to 5-6". Used a small chain saw on the bigger roots after clearing dirt away. I have had to dig a ramp the roll them out as my BX wouldn't lift them. Usually half a day minimum after the trunks are cleared away. I'll bet he did not leave a 6' of trunk to provide leverage for pushing it around when it gets loose. I've pushed whole 4" alders out of loose ground with the FEL. Amazing what leverage will do once the tree starts to lean. I called each tree a 6 pack job. "Chuckle"

The worst I tackled were some 10" maples. Their roots are real criss/cross maze of small roots spread over a large area. Holes were 6' across and 3' deep. Leveraged id not help much. They were a whole day job (2 6 packs).

Happy digging, Ron

A whole day.... That's a case! The stumps were cut right at 4 feet high.