Advice on Grader/Scraper blade

[MtnViewRanch]

Just got off the phone going over everything with my dealer. Deal has been made and ordered a Land Pride 4096, Only Tilt adjustment, no other adjustments so I need to talk to Fit Rite for Offset & Angle cylinders, also got skid shoes, and side plates. Should be here in a few weeks.

Fill out the contact page on my website and we can get going on this.

 

[BMan2005]

EXCELLENT CHOICE BMAN!!!!!

Thanks! I think I will be happy with it.

Fill out the contact page on my website and we can get going on this.

Just did it

 

[Turbys_1700]

OK BMan...
You know that pictures are absolutely mandatory when you get everything set up...
That is a really nice blade and of course you know how I like the Workmaster...
You've got a really great set up there...

 

[BMan2005]

OK BMan...
You know that pictures are absolutely mandatory when you get everything set up...
That is a really nice blade and of course you know how I like the Workmaster...
You've got a really great set up there...

Thanks Bud, I have a job to repair about 800' (part of our new drive way) of road and 10 loads of dirt & a pipe to finish it out already lined up when it gets in . So hopefully some good working pictures of it.

 

[BMan2005]

Depends, does your tractor have draft control? I think that it does, but not sure. Learn to use the draft control with your blade and there is no need for gauge wheels.

What would draft do when pulling dirt leveling a road? I mean I understand draft control, but maybe not in this case. If the blade come into contact with a high spot with draft set wouldn't it cause the blade to slightly rise up from the pressure leaving the high spot?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What would draft do when pulling dirt leveling a road? I mean I understand draft control, but maybe not in this case. If the blade come into contact with a high spot with draft set wouldn't it cause the blade to slightly rise up from the pressure leaving the high spot?

It would if you have it set that sensitive. All I know is what MY Mahindra 7520 will do and how it can be set. People think that when using draft control the blade raises inches to get through a tough spot. I suppose it would if it were a rock or some immovable object. But when working with ground that is simply hard and soft in areas it raises 1/16"-1/8" at most and allows the machine to continue on. That is if you have everything set properly.

So much of this is learning how to make FULL use of the features that your tractor has and how they react to different circumstances.

I can go over a mile and never stop or adjust the blade. It's all in learning what the machine's capabilities are and do your best to not exceed them.

As an example, there are parts of my road that don't get used as often as others. I could set the blade to make a 3" cut in that area and the machine would do it no problem, but if I had it set for that much of a cut and then got down to the area where I can only make a constant 1"-2" cut, then yes the draft control is going to raise up quite a bit. So either something has to be reset or I just set it for a lighter cut from the start and go on my way.

From what I have seen over the years, a lot of people try making a deep cut to move more material and then have to spend half their time fixing what they made a mess of raising and lowering the implement trying to get the deepest cut that the machine will do at the time. When what they should have been doing is taking a third or maybe half of what they were trying to cut.

A lot has to do with experience, but so much of it is common sense and knowing what the capabilities of the machine are and how to make the best use out of those capabilities. But then that comes with experience.

 

[BMan2005]

It would if you have it set that sensitive. All I know is what MY Mahindra 7520 will do and how it can be set. People think that when using draft control the blade raises inches to get through a tough spot. I suppose it would if it were a rock or some immovable object. But when working with ground that is simply hard and soft in areas it raises 1/16"-1/8" at most and allows the machine to continue on. That is if you have everything set properly.

So much of this is learning how to make FULL use of the features that your tractor has and how they react to different circumstances.

I can go over a mile and never stop or adjust the blade. It's all in learning what the machine's capabilities are and do your best to not exceed them.

As an example, there are parts of my road that don't get used as often as others. I could set the blade to make a 3" cut in that area and the machine would do it no problem, but if I had it set for that much of a cut and then got down to the area where I can only make a constant 1"-2" cut, then yes the draft control is going to raise up quite a bit. So either something has to be reset or I just set it for a lighter cut from the start and go on my way.

From what I have seen over the years, a lot of people try making a deep cut to move more material and then have to spend half their time fixing what they made a mess of raising and lowering the implement trying to get the deepest cut that the machine will do at the time. When what they should have been doing is taking a third or maybe half of what they were trying to cut.

A lot has to do with experience, but so much of it is common sense and knowing what the capabilities of the machine are and how to make the best use out of those capabilities. But then that comes with experience.

I could see it helping going from compacted material to soft where the blade could just bury itself. I think I understand what you are saying, I use draft & position with my disk harrows when trying to light disk broadcast seed in to where it is more less just dusted in under the dirt. No matter the ups & down in the ground it stays the same & harder to softer material. For the most part, maybe a 1/2 difference which is much better than 3-4 without draft. 8 acres I just planted in Brown Top Millet.




I'm still a little unsure though about the mechanics of how it will work to keep from having hoops with draft moving even though we are only talking fractions of an inch, but I know the position of the top link on the tractor influences sensitivity & reaction speed of the draft function as well. I have plenty of grading and practice to do here shortly so I'll give it a shot! Thanks

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm still a little unsure though about the mechanics of how it will work to keep from having hoops with draft moving even though we are only talking fractions of an inch, but I know the position of the top link on the tractor influences sensitivity & reaction speed of the draft function as well. I have plenty of grading and practice to do here shortly so I'll give it a shot! Thanks

Look at the pictures, zero wash board. In those pictures the variance you see is the color of the ground itself. The top link is in the most sensitive pin location and the cutting edge is set at about 1" down with the position control. I then set the draft control lever at that depth so that it will cut at that setting for the length of the road.

 

[BMan2005]

Look what the brown truck dropped off today Hoses haven't made it yet. I'll say this, I think cylinders being a weak point is no more, these are massive. Photos don't do justice but I put my hand on one for reference & I'm not over size man but I'm 6' 1" and fairly good sized mitts on me.

Going to drop them off with the dealer this week so they can install them on the blade when it comes in.

 

[fried1765]

Look what the brown truck dropped off today Hoses haven't made it yet. I'll say this, I think cylinders being a weak point is no more, these are massive. Photos don't do justice but I put my hand on one for reference & I'm not over size man but I'm 6' 1" and fairly good sized mitts on me.

Going to drop them off with the dealer this week so they can install them on the blade when it comes in.

View attachment 561897

View attachment 561898

Must be for a 100HP tractor.

 

[BMan2005]

Must be for a 100HP tractor.

You would think so, but no I think Brian at Fit Rite believe's in what he says to sale a better product at the same or less. It was $305/ cylinder from landpride that are 1 1/4" rods that I'm sure would hold, but for $266.50 for a stouter cylinder, 1.75" rods, and support a TBN member it was a easy decision. Didn't know it would honestly be cheaper until Brian sent me the final quote.

I'll also say we have been discussing a hydraulic multiplier for my rear remote and from some pictures of my tractor he's given some great advice and ideas how to set it up and look clean. I'll be purchasing that soon now.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You would think so, but no I think Brian at Fit Rite believe's in what he says to sale a better product at the same or less. It was $305/ cylinder from landpride that are 1 1/4" rods that I'm sure would hold, but for $266.50 for a stouter cylinder and support a TBN member it was a easy decision. Didn't know it would honestly be cheaper until Brian sent me the final quote.

I'll also say we have been discussing a hydraulic multiplier for my rear remote and from some pictures of my tractor he's given some great advice and ideas how to set it up and look clean. I'll be purchasing that soon now.

BMan, I'm curious, did the $305 include the hose kit AND male couplers?

On another note, UPS sure has been dropping the ball on getting my shipments delivered complete. They leave here complete, seems sort of counter productive to be splitting them up. :confused2: Seems to be happening quite a bit more this last year or so.

 

[BMan2005]

BMan, I'm curious, did the $305 include the hose kit AND male couplers?

On another note, UPS sure has been dropping the ball on getting my shipments delivered complete. They leave here complete, seems sort of counter productive to be splitting them up. :confused2: Seems to be happening quite a bit more this last year or so.

No clue, dealer said I could order without any adjusters so I went that route.

Yeah, they had all three scheduled for today & only dropped two. Driver might have a girlfriend out this way and needs an excuse to drop another package tomorrow :laughing:

 

[Piston]

That is gonna be a REALLY nice setup!

 

[BMan2005]

Update- blade has been in a little while but I haven't been able to break loose. I dropped of the cylinders for them to go ahead and attach and plan to pick it up later this week.

I'll say pictures definitely don't do it justice, very stout and I think will work perfect on my tractor! Here is a few pictures of it assembled on the shop floor minus the cylinders. I'll had some of it hooked up after I get it home and start using it.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Pretty darn nice set up your going to have. Congrats

 

[BMan2005]

Finally got time to get some time working the blade and pictures of it set up.

 

[BMan2005]

Here are some shots of it working. With the cylinders added the blade is a touch over 1,000 lbs which seems to be a perfect match for my tractor. I appreciate everyone's help in this decision and Brian at Fit Rite hydraulic's for the nice set of cylinders, my dealer even bragged on the quality when he installed them. Far as over all cost for everything since I'm sure some are curious was $3480.00. wasn't what I wanted to spend, but I feel like I made a very long term investment and as you can see with having a 3/4 Mile drive to keep up in the future when we build it'll be nothing I feel like in the long run.

 

[mopardude318]

Wow. Very nice!!

Brian, is your lead time different from Top-N-Tilt cylinders than the cylinders needed for a RTB45 rear blade?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Wow. Very nice!!

Brian, is your lead time different from Top-N-Tilt cylinders than the cylinders needed for a RTB45 rear blade?

Typically 1-2 weeks for the RBT cylinders.