L4060 HSTC rear remote, where to buy??

[MtnViewRanch]

MtnViewRanch, Would it be possible to have an electrically activated top-link for a tractor? I have an electric sleeve hitch for my garden tractor that I use to pull a 4' box blade. It only has a 350-pound lift capacity, but perhaps it could be made stronger?

Nice thing is, it has down-pressure. I have included a link in case anyone would like to see it.

Universal Sleeve Hitch

Not really a viable solution, or it would already be out there for sale for the application.

There are several ways that the control issue can be dealt with for your tractor. Several variables need to be considered.

But as far as cost, it comes down to exactly how many sets of rear remote outlets do you really want-need? This can make a difference with how this is dealt with.

None of it is cheap cheap and then when a person goes with the cheaper version of things, there are often issues.

You now have a tractor, not a "garden tractor" so you sort of need to pay the PIPER so to speak when you make improvements.

Just the way it is.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Not really a viable solution, or it would already be out there for sale for the application.

Probably not financially viable right now. When I buy my all-electric SCUT in 5-7 years, perhaps it will have electrically activated controls.

It's not about money per se. I really like my little electric sleeve hitch and miss the downpressure, which enables you to do more with lighter implements plus gives you a little more control.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Probably not financially viable right now. When I buy my all-electric SCUT in 5-7 years, perhaps it will have electrically activated controls.

It's not about money per se. I really like my little electric sleeve hitch and miss the downpressure, which enables you to do more with lighter implements plus gives you a little more control.

This would do nothing for down pressure on your current 3pt hitch. The hitch will always be able to raise up to the top of it's range of movement. The other thing about down pressure, as much as you push down is what you are removing for traction on the rear wheels.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I would never pretend to argue with an acknowledged expert in the field of hydraulics. I would order a kit from you in a heartbeat, but apparently you don't make them any more for my application. All I'm saying is the electric sleeve hitch is pretty awesome and I wish I had one on my "real" tractor, having used both. I await the time when tractor technology moves out of the last century. Seems like it might finally be going that way; I certainly hope so. What can I say? I always look at things and imagine how they can be improved. I love my tractor the way it is, but that doesn't mean I can't imagine an ideal, better version.

 

[BeezFun]

I'm on my 3rd tilt valve & my tilt cylinder still leaks down in under an hour. My toplink is ok & only stretches an inch or 2 over a few hours, after they replaced it once.

I had the same problem with my tilt cylinder, you can read this thread, post #14 where I calculate expected leak down for a valve. My solution was to put a miniature ball valve inline on the rod side of the valve. When I get the cylinder where I want it, I close the ball valve and then it doesn't matter if the SCV valve leaks or not. The valve is good for 2500psi, which was OK for my system. If you have a bigger tractor it's possible you're running too high a pressure and you'll need a bigger valve.

 

[Fallon]

I had the same problem with my tilt cylinder, you can read this thread, post #14 where I calculate expected leak down for a valve. My solution was to put a miniature ball valve inline on the rod side of the valve. When I get the cylinder where I want it, I close the ball valve and then it doesn't matter if the SCV valve leaks or not. The valve is good for 2500psi, which was OK for my system. If you have a bigger tractor it's possible you're running too high a pressure and you'll need a bigger valve.

View attachment 561320

That is going to be my solution of last resort. The dealer got a decent (not greatl) valve on the toplink, so they do exist. A pilot operated check valve might be an easier option if I can get one. That would kill float though. I love float on my toplink, but dont use it on the sidelink that much.

The pressure would me the same for most any Kubota tractor. They are all rated at 2,500psi give or take. Tiny valve is fine assuming it fits on the hose with no adapters. I think the restrictors FitRite put in the hoses have holes the size of pencil lead or so anyway. My dealer was never able to get an answer from Kubota (or at least that's what he claims) on what their acceptable leakdown rate is. But he agrees the sidelink extending all the way in an hour or 2 is not acceptable. Sadly it's as low as half an hour to go from level to impliment dragging on the right side on hot days.

 

[BeezFun]

The dealer got a decent (not greatl) valve on the toplink, so they do exist.

I came away surprised that even quality brand valves advertise leakdown rates that result in cylinder drops very close to what we've both observed in practice. For the type of valves we use on tractor remotes, the manufacturers claim leakdowns of .3-.8 in*3/min at about 1500psi and 120F. The cylinders we have generally have areas about 2 in*2 on the rod side. So at 1500psi that gives you a leakdown of anywhere from .6-1.6 in/min. If you scale that for the weight of a typical bush hog, you have about 75psi instead of 1500psi, so that gives a leakdown for our situation of .03-.08 in/min. So in an hour that is a range from 1.8 - 4.8 in, which is pretty close to what we both observe. I also think my fluid is hotter than 120F, I can barely hold my hand on the valve fittings, so that would make the leakdown even faster. I was convinced by a couple other guys on the forum that this kind of leakdown is just an unfortunate fact of life for cylinders with very small volumes of fluid being connected to normal service valves.

A pilot operated check valve might be an easier option if I can get one. That would kill float though. I love float on my toplink, but dont use it on the sidelink that much.

I find float on sidelink useful for back blade dragging snow or gravel, harrowing manure in pasture, landscape rake cleaning up branches. I did not think of all the reasons I could use it before I had it.

Tiny valve is fine assuming it fits on the hose with no adapters.

I mounted mine on the valve body.

My dealer was never able to get an answer from Kubota (or at least that's what he claims) on what their acceptable leakdown rate is. But he agrees the sidelink extending all the way in an hour or 2 is not acceptable. Sadly it's as low as half an hour to go from level to impliment dragging on the right side on hot days.

Yes, it's very hard to get this data because they don't want you to be able to figure out what "normal" is. I'm not sure why the dealer feels that kind of extension is not acceptable in the absence of any information about leakdown rate. It's impossible to draw any conclusions in the absence of any data.

 

[Fallon]

The 3 valves I got from FitRite & put on my L3200 took days to leak down at worst. My loader doesnt budge an inch in weeks on my new L4060 or my old L3200. So not only can it be done, Kubota knows how. They just can't be bothered for rear remotes, even on their premium tractors.

 

[BeezFun]

The 3 valves I got from FitRite & put on my L3200 took days to leak down at worst. My loader doesnt budge an inch in weeks on my new L4060 or my old L3200. So not only can it be done, Kubota knows how. They just can't be bothered for rear remotes, even on their premium tractors.

Yes it's strange, I have a 15 year old kubota and my FEL will stay up for weeks too. It seems to make no sense that a company would put good valves on one end of the tractor and leaky valves on the other end. I have Prince valves for my remote and they leak, I know other people that have them and say they hold for days. I wonder if it isn't a quality control problem so some people get lucky and get the good ones.

 

[vvanders]

If I didn't know any better I'd think that they're trying to make an extra profit on the remotes. They don't include them standard, even in the Grand Ls and the quotes I'm getting for the dealers are nearly 2k for two floats on the back of a L4760. That's halfway from an L to Grand L and no small pocket change. The fact that they're pretty widely reported to leak down is insult to injury.