Wire feed welder

[Lelandwelds]

At first glance,a lot of the opinions posted seem contradictory but in reality most aren't. I'm fairly new to welding and here's my take so far. Buy a name brand machine,buy 240 volt or dual 120/240,get the most amps you can afford but at least 175. You can't buy parts for HF and other low end machines. While it's true good looking mig welds can be weak,mig can make as strong of welds as stick. Try breaking pratice welds if there's any doubt. Newbies will do themselves a favor starting off with flat & horizonal wire rather than the popular all position wires. After getting comfortable doing flat & horiz,go with all position if you occasionally need to do vert or overhead. Rather than striving for stack-o-dime appearance,try eliminating worm holes, inclusions,undercut,lack of penetration and burn through. I have been happy with my Lincoln Pro-Mig 180 doing body panels,pipe H fence braces and in between.

You may be right. People are probably more similiar whether the subject is politics, religion, welding, or other controversial subjects.

Welders are supposed to come in blue but Lincoln is a major brand. The green tractor and Snap-On guys can get difficult and excited too.

Stack of dimes is largely a function of flux type. (It's gas selection and spray vs short circuit for mig.) Pin holes and worm tracks are often dirty base metal or poor condition of flux. Wagon tracks, under cutting, bead profile errors, and penetration problems are operator error.

I really dis like third rate equipment. I firmly believe professional grade equipment and supplies get called that for a reason. I know money by definition is treasure but who plans from the start to perform poorly and struggle while you do it?

Also, I have found there are few things the factory and "professionals " can do that a motivated individual can not.

 

[bunyip]

Not long ago I sprung for a cheap wire welder for very thin materials.
Works so-so but sure splatters a lot.

Anti splatter spray, not sure if it reduces splattter or stops it sticking.
s

 

[Big Barn]

Anti splatter spray, not sure if it reduces splattter or stops it sticking.
s

Anti spatter spray prevents spatter from sticking.



I like the one on the left the best.

 

[bunyip]

Thanks, found brushing off was easier when I remember to use it.

 

[MoArk Willy]

Thanks to everyone for their input. I will wait until I can afford a quality machine mig/flux.
I would also like to add that the DC arc I bought is an Amico. It is dual voltage and I have used it on 120 only.
I haven't welded in decades, but I wanted to get something that wouldn't break the bank and be useful on small projects around the house.
I absolutely love this little welder. It appears it makes me a better welder than I remember being. I suspect the DC helps that quite a bit.
6013 is also the rod I have the best luck with, easy to strike and maintain an arc....for these old hands and eyes.
Lelandwelds made the comment "Also I have found there are a few things the factory and professionals can do that a motivated individual can not."
I have always believed that to be true. The only real difference between amateurs and professionals is time and experience.

 

[jaxs]

"The only real difference between amateurs and professionals is time and experience. "
I would add determination,perseverance and willingness to learn. Over the years,I've seen many people limit themselves simply because they think they understand everything there is to know about their job. WRONG !

 

[Jeepnford]

Maybe welders at Kubota and Land Pride should read this thread. There are welds on my tractor and my box blade that wouldn't have passed in my back yard let alone a factory.

Look at some of the welds on trailers at the chain and box stores.

 

[IchabodCrayne]

Seen 'em. I've seen insane porosity in welds on goose necks of commercially sold 5th wheel trailers too.

 

[Lelandwelds]

The only real difference between amateurs and professionals is time and experience.

The only real difference between the two is one gets paid. Quality is just assumed not guaranteed.

We obsess too much on small details of weld appearance. Hydrogen embriddlement is a bigger problem than the random pinhole. It drops the real world strength from 70,000s to 50,000s which is about the strength of the steel part. A weld isn't supposed to be put in the most critical spot. A structure is commonly designed to carry four times (or whatever) the load it is ever expected to see.

Bad things happen when parts are "value engineered" to drop the quality down to the minimum level adequate for the majority of users. Bad things also happen when stuff is copied without engineering, QC methods are not used, and quality is seen as an expense to be trimmed rather than essential.

But, back to wire welders, waiting a bit until a better tool is available is like buying a little larger tractor, building a bit larger garage, filling a bit larger tool chest, or spending more time with the kids. No one regrets it.

 

[Big Barn]

But, back to wire welders, waiting a bit until a better tool is available is like buying a little larger tractor, building a bit larger garage, filling a bit larger tool chest, or spending more time with the kids. No one regrets it.

Two thumbs up from me! I'll add it to the list of "things I wish I'D said"