Rear chains

[JJT]

The difference for me between chains and no chains was amazing. I have a large CUT, (L3710), with loaded R4's and a FEL and a 78" snow blower. I did a test, without the chains 18" of snow was enough to force me to use the diff lock with 4wd to go more than 20 feet, with the chains I was able to do several 1 acres loops using 2wd and no diff lock.

Of course with the snow blower I never need to drive thru deep snow, I just need to follow the blower.... My drive is long and has a good rise, chains prevent slipping and sliding.

Chains can also be used in the mud.

 

[andrewimbrogno]

Well there is no doubt that i will need the chains. Should there be some sort of tension in them because the chains i have have a large circle around the tire rim. i see chains with some sorta or device in the that makes sure that they dont come off the tire. Although i dont really see them coming of the tire unless i have no traction at all and just spin the tires wildly. I'ven ever heard of being able to use chains in mud, although it must be better than my turf tires...even morning dew causes them to spin

 

[Varmintmist]

Get about 6 12in or smaller rubber bungee cords and put 3 on each side of the outsides of the tires. Your chains should be fairly tight when you get them on.

I dont have chains for the Mahindra 3510, but I had them on the JD850. Had turfs and REALLY needed chains.

Put your chains on, pull forward about 30 feet, then back up to where you started, you will be able to tighten your chains up a link or 2 unless you are really lucky, or really strong, then add the bungee's.

I havent decided if I am going to extend my chains to fit the Mahindra. I'd have to buy some cross chains and add to the sides. I cut these down to fit the JD so I should have enough side chain to make it. But 4wd, a FEL, and loaded tires and a whole lot more weight overall should make it through any snow I get. If I get more than I can move with this tractor, I'm staying inside /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[JJT]

I have double ring chains, tons of traction.

I use many rubber bungees to keep the side chains tight, about a dozen on the inside and the outside. The chains stay tight, if there was too much slack they'd be hitting the fenders.

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> Well there is no doubt that i will need the chains. Should there be some sort of tension in them </font>

I think it depends on how much clearance you have...

Loose chains seem to be self cleaning to some extent and that is a positive thing. My neighbor runs his chains loose...amazingly loose...but he has a lot of clearance....I could never do that on my B2910.

If you have clearance my vote would be to run the chains slack and let them self clean.

You are not running highway speeds remember.

My chains are real tight, but I must say watching my neighbors chains flop around and drop the mud off was a pretty appealing sight...

Even with chains, my rear R4 tires can turn to slicks in the mud...loose chains...which won't work for me...would make things better...from what I can see, looking at my neighbor's tractor...

 

[bjmsam]

The difference for me between chains and no chains was amazing. I have a large CUT, (L3710), with loaded R4's and a FEL and a 78" snow blower. I did a test, without the chains 18" of snow was enough to force me to use the diff lock with 4wd to go more than 20 feet, with the chains I was able to do several 1 acres loops using 2wd and no diff lock.

Of course with the snow blower I never need to drive thru deep snow, I just need to follow the blower.... My drive is long and has a good rise, chains prevent slipping and sliding.

Chains can also be used in the mud.

An old thread, but this post piqued my interest. My John Deere 1050 2WD with loaded ag tires struggled to cope with the snow that fell on my asphalt driveway last weekend. I used the blade to clear the first 8" without too much trouble, but traction was a serious issue with the second pass several hours later. Would chains do the trick, or is this a good excuse to trade my tractor in for a 4WD with hydrostatic drive, power steering and all of the other goodies available on models 20 years newer? Part of my property is in a flood plain, so mud is also a challenge. There is a Farmtrac / Landtrac 330 HST for sale somewhat locally...

 

[Glen Watkins]

Sure chains would help alot but looking at your pictures I think a cab would be great too! The way I looked at it was I only want to buy one tractor for my needs and talking to people that have them most of them say I want to buy another tractor with a cab! But been around equipment my hole life and they sure have gone a long way! Check em out and buy yourself a nice Christmas present! Happy Holidays

 

[Thomas]

Bjmsam.
Indeed chains would help,also some wheel weight since you use the back blade.

Trade..if there's nothing wrong or you got extra $$'s etc.. etc.you have darn good 2wd tractor

 

[JB4310]

Definitely for a 2 wheel drive machine you need chains, I'm surprised you were even able to drive thru that much snoe, let alone engage it.

It might be all you need, since you got by this long with out 4x4, of course everyone wants 4x4 now, do they even sell 2x4 tractors anymore? I know you can get great deals on them used, if you sell yours someones gonna get a nice machine.

The problem with loader, bucket of weight and no 4WD is with the dead front end you are plowing the front tires thru the snow, with the extra weight on them it works against you more than with just a plow.

jb.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I have double ring chains, tons of traction.

I use many rubber bungees to keep the side chains tight, about a dozen on the inside and the outside. The chains stay tight, if there was too much slack they'd be hitting the fenders.

There is no need for side tensioners if you get them on tight.
Take a small rope, power saw starter ropes work great.
When doing up your chains use the rope to pull the ends together. One for each side
Tie it to one end then looping it through the other, then back through the first, repeat until you have a couple loops too increase the pull. (think of a pulley block and tackle)
Now pull the ropes tight and tie the end off. Forget about the chain clasps for now,the ropes will hold it.
Drive ahead and repeat until you have all the slack gathered up.
Your chains will stay on, grip better and wear better if they are tight.

Take it from a guy whose has installed a mountain of 1000 lb tire chains on big skidders (chains too heavy to man handle). This system works better then any chain jack you can buy (we have tried them) because you can snug it up and drive ahead without worrying about hitting the jack on your fender. A boot lace will work in a pinch too.
Ken