Ballast - Any merit in this idea?

[Weedaway]

Whatever floats your boat.

 

[kenlip]

I figured. I see that you have the receiver ~12" off of the ground. I would see if you can get it lower. I put the one on our ballast barrel too high and now I cannot use it to pickup a trailer without using the jack (which is a pain).

Aaron Z

I can put the receiver any height. What would you suggest as the ideal height? The ball on my car is about 400mm (16") above ground level. I wonder what other folks would suggest as ideal, too high and too low based on their experience with their ballasts.

Thanks
Ken

 

[kenlip]

Are these dimensions better? Will they work with a quick hitch?

Thanks
Ken

 

[kenlip]

I left out a critical dimension - 30" between the faces of the lower beams.

Ken

 

[jmc]

I am pretty sure that the top link is CAT-I on the tractor end and CAT-II on the implement end.



I have already drilled the 1" holes (CAT-II) and bought the CAT-II pins. Of course, I can drill new holes in the other ends of the struts and can also exchange the pins for CAT-I pins. However, is there any downside in leaving everything CAT-II and, if at some stage in the future, someone wants to mount the block on a CAT-I tractor, it will simply involve buying new pins (1" threads and CAT-I shafts) and use bushings in the top link? I can't envisage selling or donating the block in my lifetime, nor will I be buying another tractor.


Ken

Not sure I follow that but it looks like top link holes are smaller than bottom link holes. This site shows
1 1/8 inch bottom hole dia on cat 2:

Linkage pins sizes Cat 1 Cat 2 Cat 3, usefull Information about tractor linkages | Implements Direct

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I am pretty sure that the top link is CAT-I on the tractor end and CAT-II on the implement end.



I have already drilled the 1" holes (CAT-II) and bought the CAT-II pins. Of course, I can drill new holes in the other ends of the struts and can also exchange the pins for CAT-I pins. However, is there any downside in leaving everything CAT-II and, if at some stage in the future, someone wants to mount the block on a CAT-I tractor, it will simply involve buying new pins (1" threads and CAT-I shafts) and use bushings in the top link? I can't envisage selling or donating the block in my lifetime, nor will I be buying another tractor.


Ken

I'll try to reword... if you're MX is like all the other MXs from the factory then it uses a 3/4" pin for the top link and 1-1/8” pins for the lift arms.

I think you'll find it awkward to use the 1” hole you've drilled for the ballast top link. I would really confirm your pin sizes before proceeding.

As far as setting the rest up in a cat2 configuration... there's no problem with that I can see except for lack of compatibility. There's also need advantage I see to set it up as Cat2. :drink:

Personally, Id put the hitch receiver about 8" off the ground.

 

[kenlip]

Not sure I follow that but it looks like top link holes are smaller than bottom link holes. This site shows
1 1/8 inch bottom hole dia on cat 2:

Linkage pins sizes Cat 1 Cat 2 Cat 3, usefull Information about tractor linkages | Implements Direct

On my tractor, top link has different size holes on each end. On the end of the link that attaches to the tractor the hole is CAT-I and on the the end that attaches to the implement the hole is CAT-II.

I took the attached photos to measure heights from the ground with a certain configuration, but they have enough detail to show that the top link is 3/4" (~19mm) on the tractor end and 1" (~25mm) on the implement end.

I have never understood the logic of this, given that 'a chain is as strong as its weakest link'. In other words, the top link on the MX5100 has effectively only CAT-I strength and not CAT-II strength.

Perhaps this is the way they are configured only on Australian models and the USA models are 1" on both ends?

Ken

 

[kenlip]

I'll try to reword... if you're MX is like all the other MXs from the factory then it uses a 3/4" pin for the top link and 1-1/8 pins for the lift arms.

I think you'll find it awkward to use the 1 hole you've drilled for the ballast top link. I would really confirm your pin sizes before proceeding.

As per the attached photo (of some testing of configurations), you'll see that the implement end of the top link on my tractor is 1".

Personally, Id put the hitch receiver about 8" off the ground.

Wow - that is a lot lower than I had planned. I'll review my thinking.

Cheers
Ken

 

[kenlip]

My tractor is CAT-2, so I assume it should be able to handle an 800kg (1,760 lbs) counterweight.

If I space the bars at CAT-1 dimensions, would a CAT-1 quick hitch be able to handle the 800kg counterweight, or is this weight block only going be useful on a CAT-2 tractor?

If I go with CAT-2 dimensions, the span of the lower arms (inside to inside) would be 32.75" and with CAT-1 it would be 27" or 26" (I can't establish what the correct CAT-1 dimension should be). Does it make a difference in terms of stress on the arms and the stability of the tractor if one uses one dimension or the other?


Thanks
Ken

 

[kenlip]

The more I research dimensions the more confused I become.

It seems that either there are no standards or manufacturers don't adhere to them.

I am starting to give up trying to work out the dimensions I should use for my ballast block by looking at the dimensions of the implement side of various quick-hitches on the market. Instead, perhaps I should just use standard CAT-1 dimensions - IF I can find them - and then hope for the best if I ever get a quick-hitch.

Your thoughts?

Ken