Ballast - Any merit in this idea?

[Luke'sScreenName]

Good point!

I don't have easy access to the tractor, as it is on a weekender property an hour and half drive from home. But, I do recall the highest point for the lower arms being 700mm (27"), although my recollection might be wrong. That would give me a vertical range of about 14".

I used the lowest point based on when the upper link arm is about 2" above the PTO cowling and with the upper and lower links as close to parallel as possible. My thinking was that this will create a parallelogram that will keep the top of the block level when it is raised or lowered.

I have this in mind, in case I want to put a tray on the block, to carry items. Of course, the terrain varies, so the block won't always be horizontal - in fact it most often won't be, so the whole concept might be a bit stupid.

Perhaps it would be more prudent to not hassle about parallel arms, have the lower linkages a few inches higher than their lowest possible position and have the upper linkage about 2-3" clear of the cowling.

Does this sound like a better option to you?

If they go up to 27" you should have 12-14" of ground clearance. Is that enough for you?

I agree with LD1 (I actually think I mentioned it earlier in this thread) that you should go ahead and design it to be quick hitch compatible. Mine is Cat1.

 

[aczlan]

These Sketchup drawings have the basic information about the counterweight I have planned. I have produced copies with metric and with imperial units.

They don't show the internal bracing, pullout prevention bits and pieces, etc. as I am nowhere near skilled enough in Sketchup to include those details.

I plan to fit as many brake rotors as I can into the block.

The estimated final weight will be around 830kg (1800 lbs). Is this too heavy?

I would be very grateful for any feedback on the design, before I make the irreversible commitment of pouring the concrete.

Ken
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Not sure what you have planned for internal bracing, but I would make sure your receiver tube is tied to the lower arms with some hefty bracing and I wouldn't trust the concrete to hold them together.

Aaron Z

 

[kenlip]

With the lift pins 13" off the ground.....full up should not have any clearance issues at all.

But before you start welding metal together.....do you have a quick hitch? Make your hitch dimensions match a quick hitch.

I don't have a quick hitch and am not sure that one is likely in my future, but one never can be sure. Besides that counterweight, the chances are I would end up with only one more 3ph implement, to help with the upkeep of the roads on the property.

I run category II QH on my MX. My bushhog is cat II, My blade is cat II, and I made a new trailer mover that is cat II now. Those are about the only things I use that go on the 3PH. (the trailer mover tows the disc and trailers).

SO, if you DONT have a quick hitch....decide now on cat I or cat II....and design around that

While I don't have a quick hitch, I am not averse to designing the block to be QH compatible. I don't really know what is required for QH compatibility. At the moment, I have 1" holes drilled in the bars, with CAT-II in mind. I also have bought two CAT-II lower link pins, with 1" threads and a CAT-II top link pin.

Is it just a case of spacing the various components I already have to get QH compatibility, or do I need to make more changes than that?

Ken

 

[kenlip]

Not sure what you have planned for internal bracing, but I would make sure your receiver tube is tied to the lower arms with some hefty bracing and I wouldn't trust the concrete to hold them together.

Aaron Z

Thanks, Aaron

I am planning to have lots of internal bracing. I just left it out of the Sketchup plans because I don't really have the Sketchup skill to include them, and leaving them out makes the drawings easier to read (and adjust).

Ken

 

[kenlip]

If they go up to 27" you should have 12-14" of ground clearance. Is that enough for you?

I have no idea if it is enough for me. This is the first tractor I have ever owned, so I am a total novice. I am hoping that people with much more experience than I have will be able to guide me in that regard.

I agree with LD1 (I actually think I mentioned it earlier in this thread) that you should go ahead and design it to be quick hitch compatible. Mine is Cat1.

If one has only a CAT-II tractor, is there any reason to still design based on CAT-I?

Ken

 

[aczlan]

Thanks, Aaron

I am planning to have lots of internal bracing. I just left it out of the Sketchup plans because I don't really have the Sketchup skill to include them, and leaving them out makes the drawings easier to read (and adjust).

Ken

I figured. I see that you have the receiver ~12" off of the ground. I would see if you can get it lower. I put the one on our ballast barrel too high and now I cannot use it to pickup a trailer without using the jack (which is a pain).

Aaron Z

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I have no idea if it is enough for me. This is the first tractor I have ever owned, so I am a total novice. I am hoping that people with much more experience than I have will be able to guide me in that regard.



If one has only a CAT-II tractor, is there any reason to still design based on CAT-I?

Ken

I'm nearly certain your tractor is a cat1-2 hybrid just like mine. (Cat2 lift arms and cat1 top link.). Essentially all of my 3pt implements are cat1 and the the cat2 stuff has pins for cat1 built in.

Used Cat1 equipment is just much more common.

 

[Weedaway]

You could include second set of attachment points so it could be used either horizontal or vertical.

 

[kenlip]

I'm nearly certain your tractor is a cat1-2 hybrid just like mine. (Cat2 lift arms and cat1 top link.). Essentially all of my 3pt implements are cat1 and the the cat2 stuff has pins for cat1 built in.

I am pretty sure that the top link is CAT-I on the tractor end and CAT-II on the implement end.

Used Cat1 equipment is just much more common.

I have already drilled the 1" holes (CAT-II) and bought the CAT-II pins. Of course, I can drill new holes in the other ends of the struts and can also exchange the pins for CAT-I pins. However, is there any downside in leaving everything CAT-II and, if at some stage in the future, someone wants to mount the block on a CAT-I tractor, it will simply involve buying new pins (1" threads and CAT-I shafts) and use bushings in the top link? I can't envisage selling or donating the block in my lifetime, nor will I be buying another tractor.


Ken

 

[kenlip]

You could include second set of attachment points so it could be used either horizontal or vertical.

Are you thinking along the lines of turning the long axis vertical or of turning it along the long axis to swop the depth and height?

Ken