Ballast - Any merit in this idea?

[Luke'sScreenName]

This argument always makes me chuckle. I think to myself; "How much space must these people have to operate!" Conversely, "Think of all the places I operate they probably don't even consider going."

I truly can't imagine doing much of my loader work with a box blade or rotary cutter on... Actually, I just couldn't. :confused3:

I guess we all have our own tasks to do. :thumbsup:

 

[kenlip]

Ok, then doesn't it make more sense to get some 3ph implements? You need them right eventually, right?

Time, money and effort just to build single-use and otherwise useles item could be spent buying something that is actually useful.

I am not sure what 3ph implement I might want. I am not farming. The tractor is on a 'weekender' property. The property is VERY hilly, with steep roads (not just a nice, level, gravel driveway). No grass - just thousands of trees.

To date the tractor has been used mainly for moving stuff around using the forks, a bit of moving stuff around with the bucket, and using the bucket to improve the really bad patches of road. The bucket is not the ideal tool for the job, but I am struggling to find out which implement would be best.

The roads are unpaved and full of lots of small stones, up to about 4-5" diameter. I have had different 'experts' suggesting grader-scrapers, box scrapers and land planes.

Ideally, I would like to hire an implement or two to 'experiment' with. Unfortunately, I can't find anyone who hires out these sorts of farm implements. I'd be happy to buy some second-hand implements, but it seems that Aussie farmers never sell them. New implements range from about $1.5K to $3K. That's not the sort of money I can afford to spend on the wrong implement.

My ballast barrel won't cost me that much. About $50 for the steel to make the hitch, $0 for the barrel, $0 for the steel for the ballast (primarily using scrap brake disks, and any other bits of scrap I can lay my hands on). I'll use concrete to fill in all the voids between the steel bits, which hopefully won't amount to many dollars.

 

[4570Man]

This argument always makes me chuckle. I think to myself; "How much space must these people have to operate!" Conversely, "Think of all the places I operate they probably don't even consider going."

I truly can't imagine doing much of my loader work with a box blade or rotary cutter on... Actually, I just couldn't. :confused3:

I guess we all have our own tasks to do. :thumbsup:

I just trade tools for tight spots.

 

[kenlip]

I'm getting closer to a final design (I think and hope).

Utilising brake rotors and concrete, I have come up with two possible configurations that I estimate will produce a counterweight of around 900kg/2000#.

The footprint of four rotors plus about 2" of concrete on the periphery is about 800mm/31". If one allows space for the arms that make up the top link, one needs about an extra 100mm (maybe a bit less) on the width. This produces a block with a footprint of 900mm/35" wide x 800mm/31" deep. If I make the block 450mm/18" high, it will reach the 900kg/2000#. Let's call this the horizontal or H-configuration.

I can reach the same goal weight by making the block half the depth and twice the height. i.e 900/35 wide x 400/16 deep x 900/35 high. Let's call this the vertical or V-configuration.

Pros of the H-configuration:
1. Very low centre of gravity - will probably be below the rear axle height when in the working position.
2. CoG of block is about 520mm/20.5" from the linkages, giving a larger moment effect than the V-configuration, where the CoG will be about 320mm/12.5" from the linkages.

Cons of H-Configuration:
1. Projects further out towards the back, which is not great considering the confined space in which I often have to manoeuvre the tractor.


Pros of V-Configuration:
1. Doesn't project backwards as far.

Cons of V-Configuration:
1. Higher CoG of block - about 225mm/8" higher than H-Block
2. Less counterweight moment than the H-Block.


Now for the questions....

A. How much concrete would you consider to be the minimum amount to have surrounding the rotors? Is 2" enough?

B. Is the lower CoG of the H-block worth the extra rearward projection and the increased moment effect?, or would you opt for the V-configuration?

 

[bdhsfz6]

I use a 3 pt to SSQA adapter and an old SSQA 48" FEL bucket.

Titan Attachments 3 Point to Universal Quick Tach Adapter Skid Steer Tractor

I can load and unload the bucket with whatever I want by first attaching it to the FEL. Occasionally, I'll put a 55 gal drum full of scrap iron in the bucket depending on how much weight I want. I used a 48" bucket to minimize rear clearance issues but a 72" would allow for more weight.

 

[kenlip]

These Sketchup drawings have the basic information about the counterweight I have planned. I have produced copies with metric and with imperial units.

They don't show the internal bracing, pullout prevention bits and pieces, etc. as I am nowhere near skilled enough in Sketchup to include those details.

I plan to fit as many brake rotors as I can into the block.

The estimated final weight will be around 830kg (1800 lbs). Is this too heavy?

I would be very grateful for any feedback on the design, before I make the irreversible commitment of pouring the concrete.

Ken

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Have you calulated ground clearance with the 3pth all the way raised? With the lift pins starting at 12” off the ground you MAY have a limited clearance on rough ground. Something to consider...

 

[kenlip]

Have you calulated ground clearance with the 3pth all the way raised? With the lift pins starting at 12 off the ground you MAY have a limited clearance on rough ground. Something to consider...

Good point!

I don't have easy access to the tractor, as it is on a weekender property an hour and half drive from home. But, I do recall the highest point for the lower arms being 700mm (27"), although my recollection might be wrong. That would give me a vertical range of about 14".

I used the lowest point based on when the upper link arm is about 2" above the PTO cowling and with the upper and lower links as close to parallel as possible. My thinking was that this will create a parallelogram that will keep the top of the block level when it is raised or lowered.

I have this in mind, in case I want to put a tray on the block, to carry items. Of course, the terrain varies, so the block won't always be horizontal - in fact it most often won't be, so the whole concept might be a bit stupid.

Perhaps it would be more prudent to not hassle about parallel arms, have the lower linkages a few inches higher than their lowest possible position and have the upper linkage about 2-3" clear of the cowling.

Does this sound like a better option to you?

 

[jmc]

I use a 3 pt to SSQA adapter and an old SSQA 48" FEL bucket.

Titan Attachments 3 Point to Universal Quick Tach Adapter Skid Steer Tractor

I can load and unload the bucket with whatever I want by first attaching it to the FEL. Occasionally, I'll put a 55 gal drum full of scrap iron in the bucket depending on how much weight I want. I used a 48" bucket to minimize rear clearance issues but a 72" would allow for more weight.

Good idea for a lot of us. (Not for the OP at this point though) My skid steer bucket that rarely gets used would make a nice carryall back there when it wasn't filled with ballast. SSQA forks could be handy in back as well.

Any problem with enough top link travel to match the forward tilt of a standard FEL bucket's back? (Seems like buckets are about 10 or 15 degrees forward but that Titan looks like its neutral position is vertical.)

 

[LD1]

With the lift pins 13" off the ground.....full up should not have any clearance issues at all.

But before you start welding metal together.....do you have a quick hitch? Make your hitch dimensions match a quick hitch.

I run category II QH on my MX. My bushhog is cat II, My blade is cat II, and I made a new trailer mover that is cat II now. Those are about the only things I use that go on the 3PH. (the trailer mover tows the disc and trailers).

SO, if you DONT have a quick hitch....decide now on cat I or cat II....and design around that