Shipping container for tractor storage

[Mark 42]

The top is pretty much like the sides. Many have depressions from handling - a corner of another container hit the roof of yours somewhere making a depression/dent/divot. Places like that will collect water. If no damaged areas like that on top, it will shed water.

I have an idea:
You could put some temporary support on the floor inside (e.g. railroad ties) to distribute the load... the use a hydraulic jack with a post to push up the center of the roof (and/or push out any dents) and make a slightly domed roof. Of course, you risk splitting a wall/roof seam if you push too hard, but as long as you don't overdo it, it seems viable.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Pictures of my friends container as promised.

 

[Doofy]

Pictures of my friends container as promised.

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Very nice but I sure wouldn't want that door falling on my head.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Nor a sadistic operator at the controls if you don't quite make it in on time. Cylinders are after all, double acting!

 

[Big Blue Florida]

I wonder why he did away w/ the original double doors.

What he offers is a bit of shade over the steel double originals.

 

[Industrial Toys]

He cut down a 40 foot and did not get the end with the doors for one. Yesterday, he mentioned that having barn doors would get "OLD". Maybe it's hard to put a man door in one side of a normal door.

OR, I guess, because he can. He is an incredibly talented and capable young man who astounds me every time I go there.

 

[newbury]

Pictures of my friends container as promised.

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Nice, but it looks like the hydraulics could cost as much as the container.

 

[Industrial Toys]

This young kid does hydraulic hoses, tubing and fittings. He has a better selection and stock than probably anybody in a 100 KMS radius. Maybe more. That helps! Shame doesn't begin to describe how he makes any of the "dealers" around here look! Remember, this is canada. He made me up some stainless hydraulic hose yesterday.

 

[Big Blue Florida]

We think he has done a first rate job.

Might have done things a touch different but it works for what he wants.

What is that on the roof ?

 

[RayfromTX]

I put tar paper between the concrete and wood before building, to create a moisture barrier. It seems that you could do the same for the RR ties?

Off topic but wanted to let you know that tar paper isn't a barrier to water vapor and is only a very short term barrier to liquid water. In your case it is going to be water in vapor form that you are concerned with. If there is moisture in the concrete slab, it will travel in vapor form through the felt paper into the wood plate. In fact, the perm rating of the felt paper is higher than that of of wood meaning it will travel more easily through the tar paper. One last note about this is that the permeance of the tar paper actually goes up in damp conditions. This occurs because the fibers expand in the presence of moisture and create more and larger pathways and more surface area for the water molecules to travel on and through.

Water molecules are smaller than small. One billion water molecules placed edge to edge is only 12 inches. They are around 3 angstroms across in size. Their molecular force will move them from wet to dry.

What you need to be using for your required isolation is a vapor barrier. Modified bitumen is a vapor barrier as is heavy polyethylene. If you have limited moisture levels in the concrete(not likely) and a strong drying potential out of the wood(possible) the wood may be able to dry as quickly as it is wetted and it will survive with tar paper but it is the drying making it survive and not the tar paper. We got away with this method for decades but as we build tighter and more well insulated buildings, we reduce the energy flow through the walls and; therefore, we reduce the drying potential. This has led to a need to manage the wetting more effectively. BTW, the blue foam that is used between plate and slab is also not a vapor barrier. It is intended to act as a gasket for air leakage.

The code says that any wood in contact with concrete must be pressure treated. If you use a vapor barrier, it is no longer in contact but if you use tar paper, it is effectively still in contact.

I'm sorry for the off topic post but this is an important issue. It also explains rust forming on steel in contact with concrete. Hopefully others can use this info to help make decisions on equipment storage solutions.