Blew up Kubota motor

[def38]

After you turn the key to the run position, your oil pressure light should come on and stay on until you spin the starter. Ifyou do not see the OP light full on before starting the engine, inivestigate. Do not start the engine.

After an oil filter change, unless you prefill the new filter with oil, the OP light may stay lit for several seconds after engine start as the oil filter fills with oil and pressure is established.

 

[ovrszd]

After you turn the key to the run position, your oil pressure light should come on and stay on until you spin the starter. Ifyou do not see the OP light full on before starting the engine, inivestigate. Do not start the engine.

After an oil filter change, unless you prefill the new filter with oil, the OP light may stay lit for several seconds after engine start as the oil filter fills with oil and pressure is established.

Sorry to derail,,,,, but that's a whole nother discussion. Fill the oil filter or not..... Most manufacturers now say don't fill. Risk of contamination is too high. Personally, I never fill an oil filter.

 

[4570Man]

Sorry to derail,,,,, but that's a whole nother discussion. Fill the oil filter or not..... Most manufacturers now say don't fill. Risk of contamination is too high. Personally, I never fill an oil filter.

I always pre fill a vertical mounted oil filter. I don’t see much way for contamination to happen doing that. I do believe that an oil change is a likely source of contamination and don’t believe in changing it before the specified intervals.

 

[LD1]

Sorry that happened.

When starting an engine after an oil change, it's a good practice to watch for the oil light to come on momentarily, and then go out. This will verify the oil pressure warning light circuit is working properly.

That is also my habit. All the years of rebuilding or replacing engines, the one thing to look for is oil pressure.

After you turn the key to the run position, your oil pressure light should come on and stay on until you spin the starter. Ifyou do not see the OP light full on before starting the engine, inivestigate. Do not start the engine.

After an oil filter change, unless you prefill the new filter with oil, the OP light may stay lit for several seconds after engine start as the oil filter fills with oil and pressure is established.

Yes Yes and Yes.

As I have stated, it is my fault for not verifying a working gauge every time I hop on the tractor and start it. Just got complacent and quit looking I guess

Sorry to derail,,,,, but that's a whole nother discussion. Fill the oil filter or not..... Most manufacturers now say don't fill. Risk of contamination is too high. Personally, I never fill an oil filter.

I always fill vertical ones as well. But alot anymore are mounted sideways

 

[LD1]

Someone mentioned non turbo tractor too and swap manifolds....not that simple.

And it seems there was a thread on here a while back about someone wanting to put a turbo on a non-turbo engine....I won't....here's why....

Kubota specs that are different as far as the engine is concerned....

Turbo engine Intake valve opens 20* before TDC and closes 45* after BDC....245* total duration
Non-T engine............................12* before TDC and closes 36* after BDC....228* total

Turbo engine Exhaust valve open 50* before BDC and closes 0*.....................230* total
Non-T engine............................57* before BDC and closes 36* after TDC.....249* total

Exhaust cam lobe on turbo is 1.310" vs 1.335" for the non-turbo

Top ring gap spec for turbo is .008" - .013".......non turbo is .010" - .015"
Second ring gap for turbo is .016" - .021".........non turbo is .012" - .017"

Injection timing is 7.5 - 9 degrees before TDC for turbo. 15.5 - 17 degrees before TDC for non turbo.

Seems like those are some pretty important differences to just slap a turbo intake manifold onto an engine that wasn't spec'd for one.

 

[def38]

I always pre fill a vertical mounted oil filter. I don’t see much way for contamination to happen doing that. I do believe that an oil change is a likely source of contamination and don’t believe in changing it before the specified intervals.

I frequently change my diesel engine oils (the Perkins in the M-F and the Caterpillar in the motorhome) at short intervals. Mobil Delvac 15w-40 is cheap. I do change the filter every other oil change. As for the autos, motorcycle, riding mower, they get Mobil1 synthetic and I run them to 10,000 miles (one season for the mower). My 4 stroke weedeater likes the Delvac although the manual calls for SAE 30 weight.

 

[def38]

Someone mentioned non turbo tractor too and swap manifolds....not that simple.

And it seems there was a thread on here a while back about someone wanting to put a turbo on a non-turbo engine....I won't....here's why....

Kubota specs that are different as far as the engine is concerned....

Turbo engine Intake valve opens 20* before TDC and closes 45* after BDC....245* total duration
Non-T engine............................12* before TDC and closes 36* after BDC....228* total

Turbo engine Exhaust valve open 50* before BDC and closes 0*.....................230* total
Non-T engine............................57* before BDC and closes 36* after TDC.....249* total

Exhaust cam lobe on turbo is 1.310" vs 1.335" for the non-turbo

Top ring gap spec for turbo is .008" - .013".......non turbo is .010" - .015"
Second ring gap for turbo is .016" - .021".........non turbo is .012" - .017"

Injection timing is 7.5 - 9 degrees before TDC for turbo. 15.5 - 17 degrees before TDC for non turbo.

Seems like those are some pretty important differences to just slap a turbo intake manifold onto an engine that wasn't spec'd for one.

Without cam, timing and fueling change, installing a turbo on a non turbo engine will result is excessive heat and very high BMEPs and short life.

 

[LD1]

UGGG.....the quest still continues.

Seems for each question I get answered, two more questions arise out of the answer. And havent had much luck getting explanation...

Got a line on a new engine locally for $6250 cash OTD. But thought I'd make some more calls...


Called a place this morning to see if they had any engines....explained the situation about my balance shaft tearing up the block rendering it useless as a core. He questioned the balance shafts and why it had them. And said every V2403 engine he has done doesnt even have the shafts.

He said some of the JD engines have balance shafts, but they just balance the rotating assembly, plug the oil holes, and toss the balance shafts in the trash. And free up HP doing so. But didnt know if that was possible as he only ever worked on non-balance shaft V2403 engines.

So it seems that ONLY the V2403's that went in tractors got the balance shafts. Non of the skidloader or industrial (compressors, generators, etc) stuff got them.

So I called the place back here locally that is the kubota "authorized engine service center" and they didnt really give me much info. confirmed that yes only the ags got the balance shaft, and without them it would rattle your teeth out.

I asked him about industrial engines, just an off the shelf crate engine dropping in. All I need is a power source to marry to the transmission right? Sure I'd have to change the bell housing adapter, use my clutch which will probably mean my flywheel too. But he couldnt comfirm if the balance shafts were specific for the engine, or if because the tractor as a whole required them:confused3:

So on one hand I am thinking....I just need to drop an engine in and make the flywheel go round right? pretty simple even if having to change a few external components, like brackets, bell housing adapter, maybe even the oil pan as I dont know if the industrial ones are cleared for the driveshaft. But no big deal.

But on the other hand....why in the world would kubota design a different engine....with balance shafts....only for ag tractors. Why wouldnt they use the engine already designed to go in skidloaders, industrial stuff, etc.

I dont want to spend $6k for an engine that will tear itself apart in a tractor application. But I also dont want to spend $1200 MORE to get one from a dealer (which comes with fewer parts like starter and alternator) if it isnt necessary.

 

[ruffdog]

So your old block could be used as a rebuild for engines that don't use balance shafts. It sure would be nice to find a great deal on a non-BS engine and just install the B-shafts.

 

[LD1]

So your old block could be used as a rebuild for engines that don't use balance shafts. It sure would be nice to find a great deal on a non-BS engine and just install the B-shafts.

I dont think the non-balance shaft engines are bored for such.

This is a new twist. I cannot find anything on google as to why balance shafts would be used in ag applications but nothing else for the same engine.

How does one even tell looking external to the engine. I see engines for sale sitting on a skid....matching the part number I need (v2403-m-t-e3b)....how do I even know if it has balance shaft or not?