Tough to move pallet forks

[ning]

I've got a set of forks (Titan) and it's really tough to move the forks in or out to different "settings". Note I'm not talking about the SSQA connection - this is the fork itself which has a little spring catch at the top and it's supposed to be able to be moved to various positions in the frame.

Anyone have any hints on how to make this easier? it seems to me that the hook part of the fork at the top isn't particularly open and square and instead narrows more tightly than the part of the frame that it's supposed to ride on. I'm thinking of using some tool, but doubt my 4.5" grinder is the right one.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I have the same forks and had the same problem. I pounded the two spring latches off with a hammer and punch. Now the forks can be moved with a pry bar.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I find forks always hard to move. It's why I love my hydraulic ones.

There is two issues. One is the locking mechanism and the other is actually moving them. So, you are saying, they are not unlocking? Does the spring catch stay in the unlocked position or do you have to hold it?

Yes, out of frustration I have removed the latches from forks as well. As long as they can't get off the ends, I don't see the danger.

 

[ning]

I find forks always hard to move. It's why I love my hydraulic ones.

There is two issues. One is the locking mechanism and the other is actually moving them. So, you are saying, they are not unlocking? Does the spring catch stay in the unlocked position or do you have to hold it?

Yes, out of frustration I have removed the latches from forks as well. As long as they can't get off the ends, I don't see the danger.

They unlock readily, and the spring drops the catch into the detent just fine. The problem I've got is with the "sliding" of the fork from one position to another. Last time I did it I kicked it for a while and got one to move a bit, and the other to move enough... not all the way to another detent, but for what I was using the forks for it didn't really matter, but it's still a PITA. I'm guessing a hand sledge with a wood block may help, but the tractor was here and the sledge was there and I'm lazy, it's why I've got the forks :laughing:

It seems to me that enlarging the slot that holds the fork at the top of frame, making it a proper square, would go a long ways to making these move readily, so that the catch would actually have something to do. It takes a *lot* of force to move them right now.

 

[George2615]

I have similar forks with top spring latches that lock them at specific widths. They were hard to slide wider or narrower. I slid each one (one at a time) to the center and applied a heavy layer of grease to the points of contact then slid the forks back and forth. They slide much easier with a good coat of grease. Just have to remember not to lean against the fork carriage so I don't get grease on my clothes.

 

[Reb954]

I don't remember what brand my forks are but I found if I release the top pins, have the forks about waist high and tipped slightly down, I can just lift slightly with one hand at the center of the forks, then use the other hand to slide the vertical part. Doing it that way they move fairly easy.

 

[CMV]

Mine are same. Basically "rocking" them does it. Push at top by latch, then push on bottom of forks (read:kick)...so kind of rocking them with the pin unlatched and they will wiggle across the frame in/out. Very rarely do they just slide to where I want them the way I think they should.

 

[tornadowatchranch]

I also raise my loader a bunch and point the forks almost straight down. This relieves the pressure of gravity and they slide easier

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have kicked a lot of them and used a sledge and block of wood. That only works when the catches stay unlocked or are gone. Sometimes tilting the forks down at a certain point makes it easier.

 

[ning]

I like the tilting idea and will couple it with grease... but ideally I think I'd like the grind or saw out the notch to make it fit right (pretty sure all of these types of fork blades are made-in-China and I'm not surprised that they're not quite precise).

If anyone's done such a cleanup mod, please let me know; for now it's probably going to be a "deal with it you don't do this often" kind of thing.

Thanks!

 

[jmc]

IIRC, on a real forklift, the top rail that the forks slide on is tapered to match the taper you described. Maybe the bottom rail too.

I have a fork frame that was from an outfit that fabs things "hastily". This rail has no matching taper and worse, its edges are sharp and as-cut with a plasma cutter. Breaking those sharp edges (4) made sliding the forks easier. It only took a few minutes with an angle grinder.

Best place to force the forks sideways is midway between the top and bottom contacts.

 

[JerryK]

I don't grease mine, just attracts sand. It helps if you unlock the pins so the forks can slide. Then raise the FEL and point the forks straight down... When you get them close to where you want them, release the pins so they can pop back into postion. Usually move easier in that position.

 

[CMV]

Unless rust is sticking them, I'm not sure grease would be good there. Would make crud want to stick where it otherwise wouldn't and make problem worse? Don't know since I only put a little on the latches themselves, but think going along that whole rail would just encourage a lot of crud to stay there then get bound up between the forks & frame.

Are the notches the problem? Mine are fairly large so the spring-loaded detent interfering with the notch isn't problem - it's more the fork wants to tilt a little which causes it to jam on the frame so it won't slide well. An angle grinder to the notches wouldn't help that any.

I like the tilt down idea too and will try that - makes sense that should make them much easier to slide.

 

[ning]

Unless rust is sticking them, I'm not sure grease would be good there. Would make crud want to stick where it otherwise wouldn't and make problem worse? Don't know since I only put a little on the latches themselves, but think going along that whole rail would just encourage a lot of crud to stay there then get bound up between the forks & frame.

Are the notches the problem? Mine are fairly large so the spring-loaded detent interfering with the notch isn't problem - it's more the fork wants to tilt a little which causes it to jam on the frame so it won't slide well. An angle grinder to the notches wouldn't help that any.

I like the tilt down idea too and will try that - makes sense that should make them much easier to slide.

The problem's not the notches - the pins are up and out of the way, and even when the fork is between the detents they don't want to slide. I'll try the gravity assist for now, but I may break out the grinder at some later point...

 

[Maharaja]

Grease the fork bars
Depending upon how large the forks are, lift the tip while pushing or pulling top of vertical shank.
Fork locking pins are to position in notches to prevent drift .

As someone mentioned a hydraulic fork positioner is a nice feature if moving forks often.

 

[3Lfarms]

I use Fluid Film and tilt the forks almost straight down. My forks are 60” and pretty heavy. Makes it much easier than just trying to kick them over.

 

[Bigfoot62]

I also raise my loader a bunch and point the forks almost straight down. This relieves the pressure of gravity and they slide easier

^ Yeah, that.

 

[Btown]

I tilt my forks down a bit, not straight down. When they were delivered they had some white grease on them and slid much easier. How much space do you have at the bottom of the forks where it slides on the fork.

 

[Industrial Toys]

My first fork carrier was built by HORST wen they were still a small company. I took some commercial forks to them and said, make a carrier for a JD 640 Loader. They did, and it was a little crude too, mild steel that gets slightly bent at the notches and bolts on the end to keep the forks from coming off.

 

[bigtiller]

Wash all the dirt, grease, and oil off. Sand off any rust. Now slather it up with paraffin wax.

Paraffin wax acts like a dry lubricant, will shed water, prevent rust and won't attract dirt and debris.