Drilling multiple holes in a line.

[CalG]

You might have a couple of saw horses.

Lower the drill table and head down to their level. Set a fence if you want.

Run that scribe line down the length, and set off the spacing with dividers. Start at the middle and work out both ways.

Prick punch if you want. But it won't matter, as long as the twist drill is sharp and of good quality.

This is a piece of Agricultural equipment, a few thou here or there won't make any difference.

 

[Big Barn]

Run that scribe line down the length, and set off the spacing with dividers. Start at the middle and work out both ways.

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Good advice

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I知 building a landscape rake and need to drill 50 3/8 holes spaced two inches apart along a straight line. I plan to use either 1/2 or 3/8 angle or something similar. I have a floor drill press, but it痴 not a great one, but adequate. I致e even thought about buying a mag drill if I thought it would help. Saw a off brand online for $450 that got good reviews.

How would you guys do this? Using a starter punch seems inaccurate. I thought about building a jig with an indexing pin, or a template. Any ideas on how to set this up? And what bit would be best, or even an angular cutter on a mag drill.

I want them to be accurate so the tines will look even and straight.

I thought about clamping a fence on my welding table, having in feed and out feed roller supports, adding a 3/8 stud to my table in the two inch from bit position as an index, then just work my way down, moving the steel one increment at a time. Seems this would work with a mag drill. Would be harder on my drill press since the table is so small and sometimes rotates with a off set load.

The angle will be 84 long and depending on what I can find at the scrap yard, could weigh up to 100 pounds. I want it stout.

Thanks for any advice!

I haven't gone to the end of the thread yet but here is my solution:
Get a cabinet shelf drilling template, Lowes or Amazon, link attached
Get a set of transfer punches, Amazon, link attached
Scribe your line of holes
Drill the first hole, insert an alignment pin in the hole, set the template and clamp down
With the transfer punch mark the center punch for the intermediate hole
Keep moving down the line till complete.

I have the transfer punches, and use them a lot in steel fabrication to match/mate parts. I can see other uses for the jig in the future.

Here are links to what I am talking about.
file:///C:/Users/Ron87/Desktop/Neiko%2002621A%20Transfer%20Punch%20Set,%2028%20Piece%20_%20Heat%20Treated%20Alloy%20Steel%20_%203_32_%20-%201_2_%20-%20Hand%20Tool%20Transfer%20Punches%20-%20AmazonSmile.html

file:///C:/Users/Ron87/Desktop/KREG%20KMA3200%20Shelf%20Pin%20Drilling%20Jig%20-%20-%20AmazonSmile.html

I would consider the cost as value added now and in the future.

I even bought the next up size punches up to 1". They are in 1/64th increments so a snug fit is easy.

Ron

 

[Egon]

There will be a multiple of ways to mark and drill your iron. Pick one that you are comfortable with.

Set a drill press vice on the table and move your iron through it. It will give a straight line of holes. You still have to mark the hole spacing. A simple jig with a hole for a center punch and bolt to fit in the just drilled hole would make that a simple job.

Hole saw might also work??? Lots of cutting oil, good quality bit and slow feed rate should be the fastest way to do the job.

 

[WranglerX]

Old school works every time...... Scribe layout line with ruler on 2 inch centers and center punch and then drill pilot hole (1/8 inch) and then come back with larger bit.... Always found layout and center punch to be utmost for accuracy... IF you use a drill press and your work is long bar stock make/find/buy support for end of stock so "work" rests evenly on drill press platform..... Funny how something taught to me in junior high school (vocational - 8th grade) metal shop still works for me 60 years later....

Quality drill bits (expensive) help.... Try to avoid Chinese *****...

Dale

 

[Big Barn]

Old school works every time...... Scribe layout line with ruler on 2 inch centers and center punch and then drill pilot hole (1/8 inch) and then come back with larger bit.... Always found layout and center punch to be utmost for accuracy... IF you use a drill press and your work is long bar stock make/find/buy support for end of stock so "work" rests evenly on drill press platform..... Funny how something taught to me in junior high school (vocational - 8th grade) metal shop still works for me 60 years later....

Quality drill bits (expensive) help.... Try to avoid Chinese *****...

Dale

I still remember my wood work teacher way back then also.

On using a hand saw for cross cutting after scribing the cut line in pencil...”Cut in the WASTE wood, saving half the line....”

If you didn’t pay attention he’d just as soon smack you with a hunk of lumber than look at you. Never get away with that these days.

 

[WranglerX]

Yeah.... Metal shop teacher in J.H. was Mr Zikos... Wood shop teacher was Mr Stone... That changed when I went to high school though.... Funny how certain teacher made impression on you, can't remember a single English or History or Government teacher.... High school Auto shop teacher was Mr Kirkpatrick

Dale

 

[bigtiller]

I like the peg board also but I would use a Vex bit for the pilot hole.

 

[Big Barn]

The OP is only drilling 3/8” holes. I’d forego the pilot holes. Too time consuming. He has a drill press IIRC so my vote would be center punch and drill once (with adequate coolant.)

Being old and retired doesn’t necessarily mean I have a lot of patience.

 

[dragoneggs]

The OP is only drilling 3/8” holes. I’d forego the pilot holes. Too time consuming. He has a drill press IIRC so my vote would be center punch and drill once (with adequate coolant.)

Being old and retired doesn’t necessarily mean I have a lot of patience.

Agreed. I would not pilot in this case.