I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010

   / I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010
  • Thread Starter
#41  
IS there a way to prime the front pump a little when installing or after the oil has been drained? It was really squealing when I started the tractor after trying to change the screen

Does anybody have any tips or tricks for rolling the front axle ahead to remove the pump?

Is there anything else I should do before I pull the front axle and remove the pump?
 
   / I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010 #42  
IS there a way to prime the front pump a little when installing or after the oil has been drained? It was really squealing when I started the tractor after trying to change the screen

Does anybody have any tips or tricks for rolling the front axle ahead to remove the pump?

Is there anything else I should do before I pull the front axle and remove the pump?
Help if I am wrong. My experians is that you have to remove the radiator and fueltank to remove that pump
 
   / I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010 #44  
IS there a way to prime the front pump a little when installing or after the oil has been drained? It was really squealing when I started the tractor after trying to change the screen

Does anybody have any tips or tricks for rolling the front axle ahead to remove the pump?

Is there anything else I should do before I pull the front axle and remove the pump?

Be sure to have front of tractor adequately/safely supported before removing frt axle. With the help of a partner we inserted long pry bars in adjustment holes in frt axle to guide frt axle from under tractor. On priming frt hyd pump turn destroking screw CW a few rounds then start engine being sure that traction clutch is engaged(foot not on pedal). After about a minute turn DS screw CCW. Yes I've witnessed R&R of frt hyd pump by removing radiator/fuel tank/hyd oil cooler/frt plate in lieu of removing frt axle.
 
   / I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Be sure to have front of tractor adequately/safely supported before removing frt axle. With the help of a partner we inserted long pry bars in adjustment holes in frt axle to guide frt axle from under tractor. On priming frt hyd pump turn destroking screw CW a few rounds then start engine being sure that traction clutch is engaged(foot not on pedal). After about a minute turn DS screw CCW. Yes I've witnessed R&R of frt hyd pump by removing radiator/fuel tank/hyd oil cooler/frt plate in lieu of removing frt axle.

It looked to us like removing the tank and radiator was more of a pain than the front axle. I had a couple of people tell me that going form the bottom or top was about the same amount of work.

Mostly due to the lines that are running through 50 year old grommets in the plate you have to remove after the radiator and fuel tank.

I will be removing the radiator anyway, The previous owner installed a new radiator, but we can not see any cushion material under the radiator - looks to be steel on steel - I am going to pull the radiator just to install that.

I have some I beams and am going to make a support to hold the tractor while the front end is out.

I have a heavy duty cart that I am going to use to hold the back of the front end up.

Can I support the rear of the front end take everything loose and raise the tractor up off of the front axle assembly?

It looks like I have to go up about 3" anyway to clear the front weight mount. From what I could see, there were only 4 bolts holding the front axle assembly on. Is that correct?

I beams might be overkill, but I have them here. I am going to use Simplex jacks. A pain because they go 1/4" per click. I know they are heavy enough. I jacked up half my house with one jack under an I Beam.
 
   / I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010
  • Thread Starter
#46  
Be sure to have front of tractor adequately/safely supported before removing frt axle. With the help of a partner we inserted long pry bars in adjustment holes in frt axle to guide frt axle from under tractor. On priming frt hyd pump turn destroking screw CW a few rounds then start engine being sure that traction clutch is engaged(foot not on pedal). After about a minute turn DS screw CCW. Yes I've witnessed R&R of frt hyd pump by removing radiator/fuel tank/hyd oil cooler/frt plate in lieu of removing frt axle.

What plugs or caps will we need for lines to keep them capped after we remove the hydraulic pump - until we get a pump to install?
 
   / I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010 #47  
One JIC plug needs to be 0.875 IN & other JIC plug needs to be 1.062 IN or plug hyd tube with shop towel
 
   / I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010
  • Thread Starter
#48  
One JIC plug needs to be 0.875 IN & other JIC plug needs to be 1.062 IN or plug hyd tube with shop towel

As you advised earlier, it is definitely the SVC above the starter that is leaking. It looks like the lower assembly is leaking around the 2 adjusters on the back. -studs with a nut on them

I was advised to take the whole unit in for rebuild.

How do I remove the lower SVC unit to have it rebuilt? What do I need for plugs for the hydraulic lines on this?

I am kind of **** about plugging and capping stuff. I have seen a lot of stuff - engines, pumps etc that were worked on and failed shortly or prematurely thereafter. I always suspected a lot of that may have been because things weren't capped off properly and some little spec of dirt got where it shouldn't have.

Have a friend that had a freshly rebuilt 409 sitting in his garage. Mice climbed up the headers and made nests in the heads. The engine had to be pulled back apart and the damage wasn't discovered until after the engine was installed and he tried to start it. I hope I learned something from that.

I have been trying to buy caps and plugs for my 6.5 injectors and lines for when I take them apart. I haven't found a shop that will sell me the caps the new or rebuilt parts come out with. I tried to order from Caplugs without success. They aren't expensive. I just wanted to order a bag of 100 each or whatever quantity they come in.

The local diesel shop said to not worry about the lines and just blow them out when I go to put things back together. Some stuff doesn't blow out as easily as it gets in. Not a good practice in my opinion.

Is having the SCV rebuilt a good option? I am kind of scared of used parts, but this part looks to be fairly easy to remove and replace - I've been wrong before.

Is there a good source for a used SCV What kind of money should I be looking at to rebuild or replace with a used unit?
 
   / I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010 #49  
JIC male cap is 0.562 IN for both hyd tubes. Those scv boxes are difficult to set the control valves for anyone less than the very experienced technician. IMHO JD engineers made those control valves & steering valves way too complicated.
 
   / I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010
  • Thread Starter
#50  
JIC male cap is 0.562 IN for both hyd tubes. Those scv boxes are difficult to set the control valves for anyone less than the very experienced technician. IMHO JD engineers made those control valves & steering valves way too complicated.

Where do I find an experienced tech? Seems the techs at the dealers are all to young to be experienced.
 

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