Rear blade decision

   / Rear blade decision #21  
No disrespect intended, but that is a toy compared to a RB96.60. A 30 hp tractor wouldn't move it far

Did I suggest that My EA Deluxe Scraper Blade was an equal to the EA "extreme", or that my 32HP tractor was equal to a 60HP tractor?
I think not.
It was only suggested that the EA "Extreme" blade (up to 80HP) was likely equal in quality and function.
Excuse me!
 
   / Rear blade decision #22  
I have the RBT 3584 and love it. I have manual offset and hydraulics on tilt and swing. Works great.
 

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   / Rear blade decision
  • Thread Starter
#23  
All right, honing in on a decision here. The EA Land Shark 84 vs the Woods RB84.60. With the same remotes, there within about 100 bucks on one another (Woods is a little cheaper). The EA looks to weight right around 800lbs, the Woods around 700. EA has a thicker moldboard. Beyond that, can't see a ton of difference in the specs. Biggest question, you think either of these blades (or one over the other) will be OK digging in clay soil? Really don't want to spend this money and wind up bending it. Looks like they both rated quite a bit higher than my tractor HP, so it seems like I'd be OK, but if anyone has experience, there's no better teacher. ;)
 
   / Rear blade decision #24  
If you have the $$$ to spend - the heavier EA blade is the way to go. You will never regret having a heavier blade. And do not worry about bending the blade. If its made, as it should be, you are not about to bend it. What might happen - what will happen with mine - I take too big a bite, grade too deep, end up completely stopped with all four wheels digging. With my soil type here - I can take about a 3" deep bite and keep that depth - as long as no big rock or massive roots. Angle the blade - drop it and adjust to a 3" cut - dirt by the ton rolls off the end of the blade. Just like snow - only dirt will not be cast any great distance off the blade like snow can be.
 
   / Rear blade decision #25  
All right, honing in on a decision here. The EA Land Shark 84 vs the Woods RB84.60. With the same remotes, there within about 100 bucks on one another (Woods is a little cheaper). The EA looks to weight right around 800lbs, the Woods around 700. EA has a thicker moldboard. Beyond that, can't see a ton of difference in the specs. Biggest question, you think either of these blades (or one over the other) will be OK digging in clay soil? Really don't want to spend this money and wind up bending it. Looks like they both rated quite a bit higher than my tractor HP, so it seems like I'd be OK, but if anyone has experience, there's no better teacher. ;)

If you are running this behind your NX6010, GET A 96" blade. An 84" blade angled at 45* is only about 60" wide. At 35* is only about 66" wide. With your size tractor, an 84" rear blade is to narrow.

Even an 8' blade is only about 78" at a 35*, 67" at a 45*.

If those 2 are your choices, get the ETA unit with a 96" blade. ;)
 
   / Rear blade decision #26  
Geez - I haven't had enough caffeine yet - brain drag still in effect. Like Brian(MtViewRanch) indicates - get a 96" rear blade. My big 'ol Rhino 950 is 96" - I offset it right around 24" outside the rear tire when I plow snow. When offset and angled - that 96" blade will cut around a 72" path thru the snow. My angle is somewhere between 35 to 45 degrees.

When I get my rear blade set to plow snow - its offset to around 20" to 24" outside the outboard rear tire and cuts a path over to around 1/2 to 3/4 of the overall 80" rear tire width.

It all depends upon snow depth and - mainly - how heavy is the snow. My favorite - light, fluffy about foot to foot and a half deep. Set the blade at a 35 degree angle and go like the wind. If the snow is a heavy snow - set the blade at 45 degrees and go as fast as I can - safely.

The ONLY reason I offset the blade when plowing snow on my driveway - there are three areas where off the edge of the roadbed is a 8' to 10' drop off. That 24" offset is my margin of safety.
 
   / Rear blade decision #27  
If you have the $$$ to spend - the heavier EA blade is the way to go. You will never regret having a heavier blade. And do not worry about bending the blade. If its made, as it should be, you are not about to bend it. What might happen - what will happen with mine - I take too big a bite, grade too deep, end up completely stopped with all four wheels digging. With my soil type here - I can take about a 3" deep bite and keep that depth - as long as no big rock or massive roots. Angle the blade - drop it and adjust to a 3" cut - dirt by the ton rolls off the end of the blade. Just like snow - only dirt will not be cast any great distance off the blade like snow can be.

You just aren't going fast enough. :rolleyes: :shocked: :eek:
 
   / Rear blade decision #28  
Ha, ha, - - I've TRIED faster also Brian. Works great with snow - go like the wind and snow will cast up to 3' maybe even 4'. Tried that with dirt - Holy Mother of Goomba - its like riding a wild bucking bronco. Shut it down - stop it - catch my breath - start over again - this time we are going at a REASONABLE speed. Whew!!
 
   / Rear blade decision
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Found a JD 95 blade for sale, anyone know anything about that? I can't even find the weight of the blade, but it's a cat 2 hookup, so I'm guessing heavy.
 
   / Rear blade decision #30  
Found a JD 95 blade for sale, anyone know anything about that? I can't even find the weight of the blade, but it's a cat 2 hookup, so I'm guessing heavy.

Just because it's a cat 2 blade does not mean that it is heavy, I would guess 600-700 lbs tops. From what I can tell, the only hydraulic available is offset and it only works in one direction, then you have to change the cylinder to the other side if you want to offset to the other side. Manual angle and tilt only. Not an ideal situation IMO.
 
 

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