Front snow blade, worried about tractor damage

[Ken Kegris]

The best advice I can give, get your plow because you will need the measurements. Now study a pick up attachment. bolt your attachment to the front of the 2510 ( which I also Have) run your hoses off of the loader control. Make sure when attaching the plow The bolt where the plow pivots right and left is perfectly level or you will wear the corner off the edge of corners of the cutting edge. I also added braces that go back from the attachment on the tractor to the holes on the side of the frame. been on there 12 years My ck is 14 1/2 years old and If I could send a picture I would,( i don't know how nor do I have a camera.) PS I am a fabricater, I have lathe, mill, all kinds of welders and plasma cutters so there will be a lot of fab work to be done. Mainly a truck plow is about 34 inches wide and I am not sure, but the 2510 has a narrow frame at the front so you will need to extend the places where the pins go through on the plow mainly so when angled the plow clears the tires. You should be able to put a wide enough pc on the front of the 2510 because my bumper clears the tires of course it extends from the frame 4 inches. Remember you can always narrow the plow if needed. An old jeep plow would be the one to get they were only 6 ft. Please don't be afraid to ask questionsn I am willing to help, Remember to wide and when angled will move the 2510 crabby when in deep or wet snow, so to wide is not better. also I have ag tires on all my equipment.

 

[dmottv]

Good stuff, thanks Ken!

 

[js5020]

The best advice I can give, get your plow because you will need the measurements. Now study a pick up attachment. bolt your attachment to the front of the 2510 ( which I also Have) run your hoses off of the loader control. Make sure when attaching the plow The bolt where the plow pivots right and left is perfectly level or you will wear the corner off the edge of corners of the cutting edge. I also added braces that go back from the attachment on the tractor to the holes on the side of the frame. been on there 12 years My ck is 14 1/2 years old and If I could send a picture I would,( i don't know how nor do I have a camera.) PS I am a fabricater, I have lathe, mill, all kinds of welders and plasma cutters so there will be a lot of fab work to be done. Mainly a truck plow is about 34 inches wide and I am not sure, but the 2510 has a narrow frame at the front so you will need to extend the places where the pins go through on the plow mainly so when angled the plow clears the tires. You should be able to put a wide enough pc on the front of the 2510 because my bumper clears the tires of course it extends from the frame 4 inches. Remember you can always narrow the plow if needed. An old jeep plow would be the one to get they were only 6 ft. Please don't be afraid to ask questionsn I am willing to help, Remember to wide and when angled will move the 2510 crabby when in deep or wet snow, so to wide is not better. also I have ag tires on all my equipment.

I recently fabricated a mount for my Kubota BX most sub compacts should be similar. I used a 6ft jeep plow and lift Is off the loader hyds. I'm not finished I have to add power angle, and auxiliary lighting .

 

[Ken Kegris]

That kubota is basically the same setup as my Kioti except i made the tractor attachment. I have power angle on mine I actually gave 1200 for my plow new never used and then fab it to the tractor. The dealer wanted me to use the loader arms which would have taken another hyd port and I did not like the over hang out the front. good job on the kubota

 

[js5020]

The mount on the machine is home built and can stay on the machine permanently, I shortened the plow A frame to keep the plow as close to the machine as possible. Before doing all this I mocked up a clamp on blade just to see what that would be like and the first thing I didn't like was the distance it was away from the front axle. My thought was the further out from the axle the more leverage I was giving to the snow to push the machine sideways.

 

[Ken Kegris]

That sideways movement is a killer sometimes, most of the time raising the plow up slightly really helps. I had to keep mine away from the tra because of the hood opening arc, and when angled it had to clear the tire. I have been letting the frame on the tra all year I used to take it off and put the weight bracket back on but I mow with the smaller Ck2510.

 

[js5020]

That sideways movement is a killer sometimes, most of the time raising the plow up slightly really helps. I had to keep mine away from the tra because of the hood opening arc, and when angled it had to clear the tire. I have been letting the frame on the tra all year I used to take it off and put the weight bracket back on but I mow with the smaller Ck2510.

I know what your saying with various clearance issues. I have the A frame out just far enough so there is no contact with the tire and blade at full angle and the lift pole is out just far enough that I can open the grill guard and hood without removal. The setup is not as fancy as Kubota but it works and costs a whole pile less.

 

[jake98]

I'm working up one now. Bought an old Massey so I could leave the back hoe on the Kioti, and who doesn't need another tractor??

 

[Ken Kegris]

Looks like a good job, I have a 3 X 8 cylinder which is way bigger than needed, But I used what I had, a 2 inch would have worked and would have been faster

 

[jake98]

Looks like a good job, I have a 3 X 8 cylinder which is way bigger than needed, But I used what I had, a 2 inch would have worked and would have been faster

With a 3" cylinder you should be able to use it as a hoist in the summer.
Next is to get some bracing behind the mount.

 

[searcyfarms]

i will just say if you are worried about tearing up your tractor you probably shouldn't have one - if you don't have reason/logic/general common sense of how much you can push and the sense to realize how much slamming and ramming something will take and are getting runs at things that cause you to come to a screeching halt, something is going to break sooner or later. Stressing your machine will net you shorter life and $$$/repairs.

there is a lot of difference in hitting a tree stump than a pile of snow, there is a difference in wallowing through mud and driving over bounders, I'm not trying to be a jerk here but that are a lot of variables in snow blades and the apparatus in how they mount to the tractor/bucket/springloaded trip, where you are blading/grading, type of blade, angle, metal strength, plastic, type of plow etc...........i could go on and on, i would stick with conservative. I use my loader bucket, i push snow with it so i don't gouge gravel, leave a little skiff of snow on my gravel and don't fill my yard full, if i need to move lots snow i use my skid steer or bigger tractor, don't overuse what you have and tear it up. Ask me how i know ;-) The D10 is a great idea someone wrote as u wont likely tear it up and you can move the entire drive and tear out the road in one failed swoop. The bigger you get the more challenging it will be to use, push/navigate, I was pushing snow today.............new 2038R, wife comes out to see what i am doing i said HEY you would love doing this I can go cut firewood. Showed her how to set the bucket to not get gravel in it and BOOM I'm cutting firewood and on the skidsteer working logs. My wife loved it, she loves cutting the grass on it too...........you don't have to have am 8 foot snow blade, or 7 foot, we have a 150 yd drive and 80x125 drive area to clean and we had a fresh foot of heavy wet snow to move. Even moved out around log pile and log splitter. Just use it conservatively, and you wont have to worry.

 

[Ken Kegris]

You need a blade thats wide enough to clear the tire when angled, Also by having the plow on the tractor it shorten the length up quite a bit. I have a standard shift and a hydro works much better for using the bucket, so the direct attachment to the tractor seems like a better deal I have not used the bucket in years. The last that was used was at butchering time to lift a pig. Its 14 years old and like new.

 

[PILOON]

I'll add another caution.
When plowing with an angled blade you often will need to crab the front wheels to offset the effect of the loaded blade.
Crabbing can pay he11 with your front rims and the attachments. Torque those bolts often!
Also keep checking the tire pressure from time to time as that crabbing can easily de rim a tire if too soft.
I have known crabbing to drive debris into the rim seal edge and causing leaks in tubeless setups as well.

 

[Ken Kegris]

I never seemed to have that much of a problem I just raise the plow enough to put weight on the front end. We only get 12 inch snow fall here in central PA and I will plow during the storm so its not so bad we get 24 inches about every 10 years or so.

 

[Fallon]

Ya, with my current solid mount blade steering either works or it doesnt. If I'm plowing it's a fine line from going straight & steering working to steering not working at all. When that happens I just lift the plow a bit until I can steer again.