What is the best way to install a grab link onto a chain?

[goeduck]

I hate those things. Like you already broke the chain, now you’re going to “fix” it with a repair that’s only a small fraction of the original load??? The only good options are to get a double pin shackle or get 2 more hooks and have a shorter chain. Really you should probably throw it away since the rest of the links are probably stretched. I also hate low grade hooks. The price difference is like a dollar.

If I broke a chain I would just keep both ends and use them as extension chains. When you need a few more feet you slip the end without a hook onto the first chains grab hook and use the other end of the extension chain as your new end.

All my main chains have grab hooks on both ends. If I want a slip, choker or whatever I have those with about 8 to 10 feet of chain and just one end on them. Then, as I mentioned above, I use them by hooking the loose end onto the main chains grab hook and I have whatever I need on the other end. I thought this was the way it was done.

 

[rangerfredbob]

I have about a 10' long chain with slip hooks on it that I try to keep with my tractor. I don't remember where I got it but it was probably an auction and was probably $5... anywho, I use the heck out of that stupid thing, the hooks are easy to hook to the bucket of my tractor in many orientations, it's pulled out my tractor or the implements I had to abandon to get the tractor out then recover them, and drug all sorts of silly things around the property... works as a great choker when hooking back to itself, the hook fits around the stock pin in my old tractor.

There was a post a while ago that mentioned it doesn't need to be attached to the chain (put this device between the item to be pulled and the tractor, loose end of chain around item and back to the chain attach area of the hook and snug up) and I'm for that, the twist lock hooks shown a few posts previous would be awesome if you wanted to attach it though... it's like $21 on Amazon for one though...

 

[WranglerX]

I have about a 10' long chain with slip hooks on it that I try to keep with my tractor. I don't remember where I got it but it was probably an auction and was probably $5... anywho, I use the heck out of that stupid thing, the hooks are easy to hook to the bucket of my tractor in many orientations, it's pulled out my tractor or the implements I had to abandon to get the tractor out then recover them, and drug all sorts of silly things around the property... works as a great choker when hooking back to itself, the hook fits around the stock pin in my old tractor.

There was a post a while ago that mentioned it doesn't need to be attached to the chain (put this device between the item to be pulled and the tractor, loose end of chain around item and back to the chain attach area of the hook and snug up) and I'm for that, the twist lock hooks shown a few posts previous would be awesome if you wanted to attach it though... it's like $21 on Amazon for one though...

About 40 seconds into this video shows two ways to use the chain grab link that started this discussion ... Shows it attached as choker use , but not necessarily needs to be, attaching it may be just convenience so it does not get burred in snow for forest floor and lost......

Tools & equipment for small scale logging - YouTube

Dale

 

[kco]

But what is load rating of such device....

Dale

The attached .pdf says the working load is 1950 pounds using a safety factor of 4x.


Here is a photo of a couple of my chains (they are 5/16") showing the links:



I like this method to attach hooks because it gets rid of the pin and cotter key. Although not as strong as the chain, the links seem to be stronger than what my DK35SE weighing around 6,000 lbs can pull. They have not broken over the several years of use. My favourite chain for dragging logs is the one on the right. It is similar to the one you recommended in a previous post in this thread.

Because I work from narrow trails, I mainly use a synthetic winch cable with snatch blocks (actually rescue pulleys) to get the logs to the trail. I have 100' (3/8") and 50' (1/4") winch cables but always use the chain choker on the log to avoid cable damage. The cable is much lighter and easier to handle. I use a Klein Chicago grip which can grab the cable at any location:

Chicago(R) Grip for Bare Cables .2 to .4-Inch - 1656-2 | Klein Tools - For Professionals since 1857

 

[4570Man]

The attached .pdf says the working load is 1950 pounds using a safety factor of 4x.


Here is a photo of a couple of my chains (they are 5/16") showing the links:

View attachment 593238

I like this method to attach hooks because it gets rid of the pin and cotter key. Although not as strong as the chain, the links seem to be stronger than what my DK35SE weighing around 6,000 lbs can pull. They have not broken over the several years of use. My favourite chain for dragging logs is the one on the right. It is similar to the one you recommended in a previous post in this thread.

Because I work from narrow trails, I mainly use a synthetic winch cable with snatch blocks (actually rescue pulleys) to get the logs to the trail. I have 100' (3/8") and 50' (1/4") winch cables but always use the chain choker on the log to avoid cable damage. The cable is much lighter and easier to handle. I use a Klein Chicago grip which can grab the cable at any location:

Chicago(R) Grip for Bare Cables .2 to .4-Inch - 1656-2 | Klein Tools - For Professionals since 1857

That’s still less than half the working load of a grade 70 5/16 chain.

 

[kco]

That’s still less than half the working load of a grade 70 5/16 chain.

I realise that, but it works for me and I prefer the cleaner connection. I think my loader's capacity is around 1,600 lbs.

 

[Baby Grand]

I use them all the time with 5/16" chains that have grab or slip hooks on both ends.
The chain with the hook attached passes through the "eye", so no need to attach the grab link to the chain with another piece of hardware.
I keep 2 in my tractor toolbox and they get lots of use.

Attached to the draw-bar with a clevis for pulling saplings makes quick work of hitching the chain:


... or to safely pull a log from the draw-bar while its weight is lifted by log tongs on a boom pole.
The slip link makes attaching the chain and adjusting its length really quick.


On the rare occasion when I need to attach chains to my FEL slip hooks (where I would typically use ropes):


To quickly jury rig a restraint from the top-link to the frame to keep the trailer tongue from lifting should the load slide aft while climbing a grade:

 

[jodebg]

BabyGrand,
Thanks for the photos-very helpful.

What brand is the attachment in the 2nd photo, and did you purchase it locally or online?

 

[jodebg]

BabyGrand,
Thanks for the photos-very helpful.

 

[PILOON]

As I read the problem, the chain links won't accept the grab link 'pin'.
What I do in those cases is to take the last chain link and either hit it with a 5 lb hammer to make it open up (hold link with vice grips) or heat it and drive a taper drift punch to open up the last link.
Then B4 it cools dip it in oil to re temper that expanded link.

Either one works 4 me.